It is hard to build a Mini^3?

[user18]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lil' Knight /img/forum/go_quote.gif Sorry for my off-topic question I've already had a Mini^3. I wonder if I want to make a balanced, is it possible?

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f6/bal...ni-3-a-262816/

 

[joneeboi]

Nate Maher did one for the NYC meet a while ago.

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f6/pos...ml#post3416388

 

[jh4db536]

here's my first DIY amp ever. i never even built a CMOY. i have only soldered wires together before. I cant believe it actually worked perfect first time no issues! I am very comfortable with [construction] of SMD now. Time for a bigger project

.

i used some cheap pliers, made in china multi meter (to ID resistors), regular tweezers, and a butane solder pen.

 

[fordgtlover]

Congratulations

 

[rektek]

you'll spend more time on checking values and setup than soldering.
after check component values I stuffed and soldered my board in 15 mins.

I had trouble with my case. the bare board was no where close to fitting.
I had to enlarge the grooves by a fair amount.
Picasa Web Albums - photographer guy - mini^3
Picasa Web Albums - photographer guy - mini^3

 

[seanohue]

Sorry for the threadjack, but I just realized I forgot C2, the tantalum cap. Is there something I can sub for it (maybe a 100uF 25V electrolytic (C5) or a 1uF 35V tant/10uF 16V tant from ratshack)?

 

[amb]

If you must get something from RatShack, use the 1uF/35V tantalum. Don't use the 16V rated one because the wallwart could output more than 16V and tantalums often catch fire/explode when its ratings are exceeded (or if the polarity is reversed).

 

[seanohue]

Quote:

Originally Posted by amb /img/forum/go_quote.gif If you must get something from RatShack, use the 1uF/35V tantalum. Don't use the 16V rated one because the wallwart could output more than 16V and tantalums often catch fire/explode when its ratings are exceeded (or if the polarity is reversed).

Ok. Will it make a big difference in using the 35V? Could I compensate by changing a few other values as well?

 

[amb]

Quote:

Originally Posted by seanohue /img/forum/go_quote.gif Ok. Will it make a big difference in using the 35V? Could I compensate by changing a few other values as well?

No. That cap is merely a small filter/decoupling cap in front of the voltage regulators and the capacitance is not critical. I spec'ed 10uF/25V because it is the largest tantalum that would comfortably fit within that footprint and not cost an arm and a leg.

 

[seanohue]

Quote:

Originally Posted by amb /img/forum/go_quote.gif No. That cap is merely a small filter/decoupling cap in front of the voltage regulators and the capacitance is not critical. I spec'ed 10uF/25V because it is the largest tantalum that would comfortably fit within that footprint and not cost an arm and a leg.

Ok, great. Thanks amb!

And for a quick sanity check, looking at the resistor pads, the one with the bar denotes the negative lead, right?

 

[joneeboi]

Resistors can go in either way. The only orientation you may want to consider is which direction you'd like to read the colour bars, from left to right or from right to left. Either way they go in, they will work.

 

[seanohue]

Quote:

Originally Posted by joneeboi /img/forum/go_quote.gif Resistors can go in either way. The only orientation you may want to consider is which direction you'd like to read the colour bars, from left to right or from right to left. Either way they go in, they will work.

Oh alright. Thanks!

 

[seanohue]

Quote:

Originally Posted by joneeboi /img/forum/go_quote.gif Resistors can go in either way. The only orientation you may want to consider is which direction you'd like to read the colour bars, from left to right or from right to left. Either way they go in, they will work.

You know, I just reread that and I can't believe I said resistor lol. I meant LED. But I figured it out.