It Begins......... (bottlehead kit)
Jul 22, 2005 at 10:03 PM Thread Starter Post #1 of 29

GLF

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I always liked reading other peoples walk throughs when they were building something because I couldn't afford to build something myself (thanks college) and the next best thing to building something yourself is to see someone else build something. Now that I can afford to build something, I figure I will try to share a bit of my journey for those interested.

My Bottlehead S.E.X. kit showed up at work yesterday at flippin' 10:30 in the morning, that made my day just fly by (insert massive amounts of sarcasm).

Finally got a start at it this afternoon (today went just as fast as post 1030am yesterday). I am hoping to have sound coming out of it tomorrow night. Below is a picture of my workspace all set to go minus the iron and a good number of the parts mounted on the chassis plate.

parts.jpg


getting%20there.jpg


Yeah, some of the terminal strips are crooked, but that will get taken care of later.

Thats all I got for now, gotta get back building.

UPDATE 8/13/05 I just added a DACT CT2 attenuator and threw some stain on the base. Pictures on page 2.

Andrew
 
Jul 22, 2005 at 11:37 PM Post #2 of 29
I am done with the mechanical assembly, everything went pretty good, its good to read the instructions, I have found I can think I know it all, but that aint going to prevent me from having to go back and correct something because I dont.

progress.jpg

top.jpg


Now its on to the soldering, and dinner.

dinner.jpg


You all might think my pizza is a waste of bandwidth and what not, but I think it is important to remember to eat and drink while building, I have trouble remembering to do both when I am working on something. But look, this time I am actually eating dinner at dinner time!

Andrew
 
Jul 22, 2005 at 11:42 PM Post #3 of 29
Looks cool so far, I always wondered how they sound. However, I can't help but be confused about the placement of the inputs/outputs and volume knob. What was someone thinking...
 
Jul 23, 2005 at 12:13 AM Post #4 of 29
Quote:

Originally Posted by Thaddy
Looks cool so far, I always wondered how they sound. However, I can't help but be confused about the placement of the inputs/outputs and volume knob. What was someone thinking...


I think it makes sense. You have your RCA in and speaker outs at the back where you dont need to get at them often, and the headphone jack, volume and on/off up front. Makes a lot more sense then the old Foreplay IMHO.

Andrew
 
Jul 23, 2005 at 12:44 AM Post #5 of 29
Quote:

Originally Posted by GLF
I think it makes sense. You have your RCA in and speaker outs at the back where you dont need to get at them often, and the headphone jack, volume and on/off up front. Makes a lot more sense then the old Foreplay IMHO.

Andrew




You think so? I prefer not to have the signal wires anywhere near the transformers and power supply components. The layout is pretty weird...dont more for symmetry than anything else...I prefer to have a short distance between inputs and attenuator.
 
Jul 23, 2005 at 3:23 AM Post #6 of 29
Started my SEX kit tonight too.

Mmm...words of wisdom-

Don't tighten down the speaker binding posts too tight or you will break one (which I did...but I can still solder to it.

Don't tighten down the nuts on the barrier strips next to the tube sockets until AFTER you have the clamps on them and the last nuts are on.


Well, that's it for now...I'll have more "tips" from my goof tomorrow after I start soldering it all up. And...I get to break in that new Hakko knockoff soldering iron tomorrow night.

Goal- be playing music tomorrow night/sunday afternoon depending on social plans tomorrow evening. Which, as I hate to say it, I'd rather get the kit finished and start the mods to my Bel Canto DAC2 tomorrow...
biggrin.gif
 
Jul 23, 2005 at 5:17 AM Post #7 of 29
Quote:

Originally Posted by gsferrari
You think so? I prefer not to have the signal wires anywhere near the transformers and power supply components. The layout is pretty weird...dont more for symmetry than anything else...I prefer to have a short distance between inputs and attenuator.


It's no big deal, mine is silent, no hum, buzz or nothing.

GLF,
I do one little thing on my Bottlehead kits that you might want to try.
I add some small screws around the edges, (see top pict) and a small wood boss for them to screw into. (see the underside picture) I don't like to permanently glue the plate to the base, or leave it loose. I also like to brace the inner corners. (Don't know why, just seems like I should)

Mine had been modified a few times so it no longer looks like the picture. That's the other reason for using the screws, so it's easy to modify when you get the urge (and you will)

719sexback_JPG.jpg
719sexinside_JPG.jpg
 
Jul 23, 2005 at 7:23 AM Post #8 of 29
Quote:

Originally Posted by Todd R
It's no big deal, mine is silent, no hum, buzz or nothing.

GLF,
I do one little thing on my Bottlehead kits that you might want to try.
I add some small screws around the edges, (see top pict) and a small wood boss for them to screw into. (see the underside picture) I don't like to permanently glue the plate to the base, or leave it loose. I also like to brace the inner corners. (Don't know why, just seems like I should)

Mine had been modified a few times so it no longer looks like the picture. That's the other reason for using the screws, so it's easy to modify when you get the urge (and you will)



I will look into that. I do not know how long I will be using this chassis for, so I do not know how much I want to mess around with it. I do have some dampening material that I am going to try to fit in where I can. My progress tonight was halted by bar hopping (I ain't too old yet), and will resume in the morning.

How do you like your's so far and what mods have you done? I have the MQ iron on order, and it should be here in a few weeks knock on wood.

Andrew
 
Jul 23, 2005 at 7:29 AM Post #9 of 29
Quote:

Originally Posted by Jwinslow
Started my SEX kit tonight too.

Mmm...words of wisdom-

Don't tighten down the speaker binding posts too tight or you will break one (which I did...but I can still solder to it.

Don't tighten down the nuts on the barrier strips next to the tube sockets until AFTER you have the clamps on them and the last nuts are on.


Well, that's it for now...I'll have more "tips" from my goof tomorrow after I start soldering it all up. And...I get to break in that new Hakko knockoff soldering iron tomorrow night.

Goal- be playing music tomorrow night/sunday afternoon depending on social plans tomorrow evening. Which, as I hate to say it, I'd rather get the kit finished and start the mods to my Bel Canto DAC2 tomorrow...
biggrin.gif




My biggest goof up has come with the choke and opt mounting. First I didnt read the bit about the solder tabs, then I missed the part about the orientation, so after a bit of grumbling everything was as it should be.

We seem to have the same time goal for getting some music out of it. Are you going to be using headphones or speakers? I have some Senn HD650 and some Grado SR225 just waiting to be hooked up.

Did you end up getting the Magnequest upgrade? My resistance lasted about 2 minutes, then I ordered it....

Andrew
 
Jul 23, 2005 at 8:00 AM Post #10 of 29
Andrew - Nice work. I built my first foreplay a few years back and was completely amazed how great it sounded. I hadn't soldered anything for years prior to that, but it worked in the end. You can do it! And don't forget that you can troubleshoot with the fine folks on the bottlehead forum. Just remember when soldering to those tabs: mechanical connection first, then add solder.

Todd - great idea adding the wood boss below, and screwing the top on. I'm unsure how much more modding I want to do on my FP, but just in case....I'll have to add the bosses myself. I really hate it being loose...I mean, geez, with 200+ volts just under the hood...
 
Jul 23, 2005 at 12:19 PM Post #12 of 29
Quote:

Originally Posted by GLF
How do you like your's so far and what mods have you done? I have the MQ iron on order, and it should be here in a few weeks knock on wood.
Andrew



Hi Andrew,
I like mine quite a bit.
Mods I've done are:
Replace signal wiring and input jacks with parts from Cardas. (small improvement)
Replace all resistors with Dale/Vishay (made it quieter)
Replaced coupling and output caps with Auricaps (improved transients)
Installed C4S boards (major upgrade, bass went deeper, highs went higher, got punch & impact)

So I've pretty much did the "Enhanced" upgrade before it was available.
Doc won't sell me just the MQ iron, so I haven't done that yet.
Where did you order yours from and what part numbers are they?
Todd R
 
Jul 23, 2005 at 1:57 PM Post #13 of 29
Quote:

Originally Posted by bhjazz
Andrew - Nice work. I built my first foreplay a few years back and was completely amazed how great it sounded. I hadn't soldered anything for years prior to that, but it worked in the end. You can do it! And don't forget that you can troubleshoot with the fine folks on the bottlehead forum. Just remember when soldering to those tabs: mechanical connection first, then add solder.


I built a foreplay 3 years ago, 2 years ago it got a face lift. Look above the wood chassis in this pic. The volume knob is solid brass, weights about 1.5lbs and has a Dact behind it....along with a few other things...........the black box above and to the left with the red and green switches is the power supply, there are two heater supplies and two HV supplies in there, the last shared point is after the switches then it splits 4 ways into each supply. The switches are set up with one for the heaters and one for the HV, and you have to have the heaters on for the HV switch to work, so you can't let the tubes get HV before having the heaters on.

parts.jpg


Quote:

Originally Posted by Todd R
Hi Andrew,
So I've pretty much did the "Enhanced" upgrade before it was available.
Doc won't sell me just the MQ iron, so I haven't done that yet.
Where did you order yours from and what part numbers are they?
Todd R



I ordered the upgrade kit, so it has the MQ chokes, outputs, C4S, coupling caps. The iron part #s off their website are:

2 - MagneQuest for Bottlehead BHMQ-1 nickel/M3 parafeed output transformers

2 - MagneQuest for Bottlehead BHMQ-2 plate loading chokes

I am pretty sure they are custom pieces so you might want to call Bottlehead and see if there is any way you can get in on just the iron. I know the circuit changes a bit with the upgrade, for one thing the output cap gets larger to match the new opt, Doc explained it to me, it made sense, but I am not going to try to explain it to someone else because it will NOT make sense.

I know they had 10 sets coming in a few weeks, but I think they were all spoken for earlier in the week, so it might be a bit before they have more.
 
Jul 23, 2005 at 6:00 PM Post #14 of 29
Whoever's idea it was to get the 3 liter bombsickle last night needs to be beaten. Though it was pretty cool to have 3 liters of beer at hand and ready to be poured.

Progress today has be a bit slow, I blame that on the bombsickle. I got a few things wired, not much, but its getting there. If you havn't tried point to point, you are missing out, it is definetly an art. My skills are progressing,but I am no Wardsweb, but he has a few years on me.
tongue.gif


progress1.jpg


Off to Quizzno's

Andrew
 
Jul 23, 2005 at 8:32 PM Post #15 of 29
Quote:

Originally Posted by GLF
...foreplay...face lift...power supply...two heater supplies and two HV supplies


WOW!!! I had no idea.

Uh...gee, with that kind of background...disregard what I said. You already know what I'm talking about!

Sheesh...what an upgrade. Oy!
 

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