Jan 24, 2007 at 6:23 AM Thread Starter Post #1 of 9

hyamaiata

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Around the end of November I bought a second-hand T-Amp in eBay US that came with this PSU. When I recieved it I didn't have any speakers so I just checked that it turned on and that's it. Then around January 2 I recieved my Insignia speakers. Connected everything and there's no sound coming out of the speakers but instead a small hiss or scratch and sometimes thumps when I play a song. But there's absolutely no sound, I've tried listening very closely and not. I checked everything, nothing. Used another amplifier and now the speakers are sounding (and very nice). So I know it's the T-amp. Then I tried it with batteries instead and still nothing. So I opened it and took a few pics to see if someone can diagnose the problem.

DSC01427.jpg

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Any help is appreciated.
Thanks.
 
Jan 24, 2007 at 6:29 AM Post #2 of 9
uh.time to start the shopping
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GL!
 
Jan 25, 2007 at 2:42 AM Post #3 of 9
I gotta agree, it looks like it's fried pretty good. Was the adapter properly rated? If I recall (I just bought a T-amp, so this is from memory) it needs to be around 1.3 amps and 12-15 volts. Check the amp itself to see what the requirements are. I've fried stuff by using too much voltage from the wrong adapter before--something you might want to check before you get a new amp.
 
Jan 25, 2007 at 7:10 AM Post #4 of 9
it could be frieds, but i think that is the back side, hard to say. what the heck are those two black dots though.

but i know the adaptor most likely isnt the fault, i use a similar ratshack adaptor for my tamp before. unless in the unlikely event it does get shorted internally. if you have a multimeter you could put the leads in each of those adaptor's hole and measure its output voltage and ampage.
 
Jan 25, 2007 at 1:40 PM Post #5 of 9
I think terrymx is right--I didn't look at the link. If I was quoting the right specs, then the adapter shouldn't have been the problem (barring something malfunctioning within it). I haven't had problems either, and I use radio shack adapters on my Millett and M^3. One other possibility could be that the polarity was reversed on the adapter. Since it is a DC adapter, the plug would need to go into the end with a certain tip polarity. If the polarity was reversed, it could possibly fry some things. I don't know, I'm just throwing out ideas now. Hope that helps.
 
Jan 25, 2007 at 1:46 PM Post #6 of 9
Quote:

Originally Posted by drrick /img/forum/go_quote.gif
One other possibility could be that the polarity was reversed on the adapter.


I believe that might be the problem too, if the pin was negative i think that would have blown the whole thing. You can try to contact SI i don't know of their customer support but they might be friendly and for a 25$ product it can be that bad to give you a new one, like a koss warranty
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Jan 31, 2007 at 6:03 AM Post #7 of 9
Quote:

Originally Posted by terrymx /img/forum/go_quote.gif
if you have a multimeter you could put the leads in each of those adaptor's hole and measure its output voltage and ampage.


Are you referring to these holes? (sorry for the crappy pic)

DSC01445.jpg


Should I put one lead at a time in each hole, or at the same time or two leads in one hole?
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. Also, would I be measuring AC or DC voltage?

EDIT: BTW, when you talk about polarity, you mean the direction in which the adaptaplug should be plugged in the holes of the picture above, right? I don't think that was the problem because when I plug the tip backwards, the amp doesn't turn on.

Thanks.
 
Jan 31, 2007 at 3:09 PM Post #8 of 9
Those are the holes you could use to check if the adapter itself was shorted. To check, you'd want to put it on DC Volts (probably on the 20 DCV range on your meter), and put the red lead in the hole next to the plus, and the black lead in the other hole, both at the same time. If it's working ok, you should see the meter read at about the rated voltage (12 Volts?).

As for polarity, yes, you are understanding correctly. If the adaptaplug were put in backwards, it could potentially fry components in the amp. I don't know if the amp has reverse voltage protection or not--if it does not, then if it was hooked up backwards at any time, it would probably fry components--things like electrolytic capacitors come to mind, but there could be others. What I'm saying is that simply switching the plug at this point wouldn't solve the problem, because it would have already done the damage. I'm still not sure if that was the problem--I'm just trying to throw out possibilities. Hope that helps!
 
Feb 5, 2007 at 5:14 AM Post #9 of 9
Quote:

Originally Posted by drrick /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Those are the holes you could use to check if the adapter itself was shorted. To check, you'd want to put it on DC Volts (probably on the 20 DCV range on your meter), and put the red lead in the hole next to the plus, and the black lead in the other hole, both at the same time. If it's working ok, you should see the meter read at about the rated voltage (12 Volts?).


I tested today and it's in 13.17v.

Quote:

As for polarity, yes, you are understanding correctly. If the adaptaplug were put in backwards, it could potentially fry components in the amp. I don't know if the amp has reverse voltage protection or not--if it does not, then if it was hooked up backwards at any time, it would probably fry components--things like electrolytic capacitors come to mind, but there could be others. What I'm saying is that simply switching the plug at this point wouldn't solve the problem, because it would have already done the damage. I'm still not sure if that was the problem--I'm just trying to throw out possibilities. Hope that helps!


Yes, I understand what you mean. But what I was trying to say is: let's say when I first connected the adaptor to the amp, the polarity was reversed. It would have fried the amp, then when I connect the adaptor with correct polarity it doesn't turns on neither. But that's not the case because If I reverse the polarity of the adaptor, it doesn't turns on. If I have it in the correct polarity, it does.

I think I'll take it to a local electronics store to see if they can do something or at least they can tell me if the adapter is working correctly. Otherwise I'll wait a little and get a new one. I won't try to use a warranty 'cause even if there's one, shipping the amp to SI will probably be more expensive than buying a new amp
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. I talked to a friend and he will loan me a reciever meanwhile, so I won't be speaker-less.

Thanks.
 

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