[ProtegeManiac]

 
So Pamp is used when an amp hasn't an included Pamp?

 
Yes.
 

  In addition, if you had a Pamp, the pamp in the Valhalla will switch to passive mode?

 

NO, the Valhalla2's is always active. Pay attention to what I'm saying. When I said use passive preamps I meant use the Schiit Sys, not the Valhalla. Bifrost and a TT for example go into Sys, it outputs the analogue signal from either into the Valhalla2.
 

  I was thinking of coupling Pamp and amp because if you look at the Valhalla, you have one input and one output. If you look at the Saga, you've 5 inputs for one output. So I was thinking you can use it in order to plug a turntable, a cassette player, a CD player etc. Actually, it was the configuration from my mom when I was a child that's why I'm reffering to this example.

 

Yes but the thing is as I've already discussed dedicated preamps were designed for use with power amps, regardless of how many inputs they have (ie there are some passive preamps with only one input and one output). Also, are you sure your mother's system had a dedicated preamp with a power amp? That could have been an integrated amp. Basically a full-feature preamp with an amplifier output stage built into the same chassis, although the input selector might be on a raised daughterboard.

 

At the same time, the need for a preamp then was because of how many analogue sources were in use, because practically there probably wasn't anything digital - or at best, the CDP - in your mother's system. Dedicated preamps nowadays are really more for controlling power amps because apart from a TT everything else tends to be digital, so a DAC handles most of the inputs (CD transport or media player on coax SPDIF, gaming PC or PS4 on optical SPDIF, smartphone or tablet on USB), with the TT being the only one that can't work with all those. At the same time even speaker equipment is reducing all this, not just by having a DAC board built into the same box as the integrated amp (as with DAC-HPamps)

Also while the Saga does have a passive preamp mode (active mode has a 10v output - normal line input into anything that has its own preamp stage is 2.0v), you're essentially going to spend $350 on something that won't utilize what it was really made for, which is its tube preamp. Really its passive mode is there more for getting a headphone amp in the same chain, because the DAC (like the Bifrost) would have only one output, so that will get routed to the Saga and then back out to the HPamp in the secondary passive output while the other output is likely going to run active with a dedicated power amp. Just how many analogue inputs do you need? Because you can just use all the digital inputs into the Bifrost (and note that there are affordable SPDIF switchers on Amazon in case some need the same SPDIF port) and then the Sys to use a TT.
 

 
I got the motherboard that is MSI MS-16K2 but I can't find other reference for the soundcard. For the ESS, it uses Nahimic 2 that can simulates virtual surround. Is that a DSP like you mentionned the name?

 

The output off that laptop is only 3.5mm headphone amplified output. Should be good enough for many headphones. If it has SPDIF optical you can use its DSP with an external DAC-HPamp system, but definitely does not work with the E10K unless Nahimic 2 is a purely software processor that works off the processor instead of its own DSP chip. You need to check with MSI for that, or in this thread:
http://www.head-fi.org/t/534479/mad-lust-envys-headphone-gaming-guide-3-18-2016-mrspeakers-ether-c-1-1-added

 

 
It's kinda each headphone has a purpose and a maximum limitation. For example, xx IEM would drive perfectly using the E10k while the HD650 would need something bigger? 

 
Yes since the IEM will get to your pain threshold a lot sooner and before the amp piles on distortion and noise than the HD650.
 

 
Actually, I don't really care about the video but I'm more into rythmic. Like if you listen Run Boy Run from Woodkid, it gave me the wish tu run like a superhero or to be outside the world in another dimension. Moreover Alizee is from my native country so it reminded me of my childhood. But I understand what you mean here.

 

Again that was just an example that had a lot more to do with aesthetics than anything about the music specifically, to make a point about subjectivity as when you raised the point about perceiving "emotion." I mean even with emotion specifically 1812 Overture and Arirang would have a different effect in Europe and Asia (unless the person listening is a history or political science major/MA/PhD).
 

 
Ahah I think it could be the case for me. While I enjoy bass from music, I would find a clear sound - probably from HD600 - too flat. But maybe I'm wrong.

 

Based on past posts here that can be the case. Others do point out the graph of the HD600 response curve, but there's on problem that is always overlooked: that graph was taken in an acoustically isolated room. That's great for getting what they need to get, but doesn't represent real world conditions, where ambient noise will get in the way of what the listener hears and most especially the low bass.
 

 
While they are on Amazon, I'll try them but reviews are not really nice. I will trust you more than them because you were a really good adviser from a lot of things even if I probably don't get everything! But this is a really wide domain, complicated but interesting. And with all your responses, it should help other foggy people like me.

 

Just note that the thing with the Aurisonics design is that they're really skewed in favor of the bass, and that's one common reason why people don't like Aurisonics/Fender. That said, the response above the bass region is relatively smooth (no peaks on the ASG-1.3, not so much the FXA-2 but still relatively smooth), and in my case a low shelf EQ cut at 1000hz (it applies the cut or boost uniformly below the chosen center frequency) to balance it all out is enough. Although this is easiest on NeutronMusicPlayer, when I use Spotify, I just activate AdaptSound (Samsung's AutoEQ). It does this differently, boosting the treble, but you tend to get less obvious distortion boosting treble than bass, so it's not that bad of a problem. Highly likely the people who dislike it don't like using EQ (look at how none of them even mentioned it).
 

 
If I compare two IEMs, one with 105dB and the other with 130dB. Should I say this one is better than the other or just be aware that the second one would be drive easily from devices than the first one? 

 

Yes but like I said once above 100dB the differences aren't all that consequential for not getting a lot of distortion out of many devices, while at the same time, anything with very high sensitivity couple with (very) low impedance can just result in a lot of electronic noise (hissing). So if you're using a smartphone and without any feedback on how it is with at least an IEM with comparable sensitivity and lower impedance, it's safer to get the 105dB IEM (in any case just make sure it's over 100dB) unless the 130dB IEM at the very least has about 32ohms.

 

 
I didn't have the opportunity to study in depth that. However I tried to find a reference guide or something easy to learn from but I failed. While it's a huge domain, that's normal for a guy like me it's difficult to understand everything in addition that my English just vanished. Anyways, it should take a couple of months before understanding everything correctly.

 
Look for a free textbook on electrical and acoustic engineering online.

 

[Notinspired]

   

Yes but the thing is as I've already discussed dedicated preamps were designed for use with power amps, regardless of how many inputs they have (ie there are some passive preamps with only one input and one output). Also, are you sure your mother's system had a dedicated preamp with a power amp? That could have been an integrated amp. Basically a full-feature preamp with an amplifier output stage built into the same chassis, although the input selector might be on a raised daughterboard.

 

At the same time, the need for a preamp then was because of how many analogue sources were in use, because practically there probably wasn't anything digital - or at best, the CDP - in your mother's system. Dedicated preamps nowadays are really more for controlling power amps because apart from a TT everything else tends to be digital, so a DAC handles most of the inputs (CD transport or media player on coax SPDIF, gaming PC or PS4 on optical SPDIF, smartphone or tablet on USB), with the TT being the only one that can't work with all those. At the same time even speaker equipment is reducing all this, not just by having a DAC board built into the same box as the integrated amp (as with DAC-HPamps)

Also while the Saga does have a passive preamp mode (active mode has a 10v output - normal line input into anything that has its own preamp stage is 2.0v), you're essentially going to spend $350 on something that won't utilize what it was really made for, which is its tube preamp. Really its passive mode is there more for getting a headphone amp in the same chain, because the DAC (like the Bifrost) would have only one output, so that will get routed to the Saga and then back out to the HPamp in the secondary passive output while the other output is likely going to run active with a dedicated power amp. Just how many analogue inputs do you need? Because you can just use all the digital inputs into the Bifrost (and note that there are affordable SPDIF switchers on Amazon in case some need the same SPDIF port) and then the Sys to use a TT.

No I'm not sure at all. I was too young. But all the entries from the Saga and the knob remembered me this.
 
By TT you mean turntable, right? 
 
I think I have to study this field. It could be interesting to understand everything in order to get a nice audio system in an house (turntable, TV, computer, ...). I also think I misunderstand a lot of things by being neophyte. But I have never seen any SPDIF in any devices I have. I guess it's the best existing connection?
 
 

   

The output off that laptop is only 3.5mm headphone amplified output. Should be good enough for many headphones. If it has SPDIF optical you can use its DSP with an external DAC-HPamp system, but definitely does 

not

 work with the E10K unless Nahimic 2 is a purely software processor that works off the processor instead of its own DSP chip. You need to check with MSI for that, or in this thread:

http://www.head-fi.org/t/534479/mad-lust-envys-headphone-gaming-guide-3-18-2016-mrspeakers-ether-c-1-1-added

No, it only has 3.5mm unfortunately though using E10K won't work with Nahimic 2 like you said. But from your link, it appears that mixamp boxes for creating virtual surround exist. Also I read that bass won't be good for hardcore gamer. So it's kinda funny because I love bass for music but it will be a pain for fps. So I can imagine that Nahimic could do the trick or some EQ softwares? 
 
 

   

Just note that the thing with the Aurisonics design is that they're really skewed in favor of the bass, and that's one common reason why people don't like Aurisonics/Fender. That said, the response above the bass region is relatively smooth (no peaks on the ASG-1.3, not so much the FXA-2 but still relatively smooth), and in my case a low shelf EQ cut at 1000hz (it applies the cut or boost uniformly below the chosen center frequency) to balance it all out is enough. Although this is easiest on NeutronMusicPlayer, when I use Spotify, I just activate AdaptSound (Samsung's AutoEQ). It does this differently, boosting the treble, but you tend to get less obvious distortion boosting treble than bass, so it's not that bad of a problem. Highly likely the people who dislike it don't like using EQ (look at how none of them even mentioned it).

I see, I didn't know that people don't really like bass. Well for clear music and work, I guess it's more precise to work without something too "bassy". Thanks to you, I found an EQ inside Spotify. It's "totally" customizable. So you recommand to cut off around 1000Hz? Well I'll probably try all the possibilities to see which one is better. You use NeutronMusicPlayer with FLAC music or why don't you only keep Spotify in high resolution? Yes none of them mention EQ. But one says that these IEMs are amazing because he's a bassist. I also looked at some "drummer and bassist IEM's guide" but they tend to put first Audio Technica and SE846 (way too much money for me). I was astonished by their ranking.
https://www.pricenfees.com/best-in-ear-monitors-for-drummers.html 
 
 

   

Yes but like I said once above 100dB the differences aren't all that consequential for not getting a lot of distortion out of many devices, while at the same time, anything with very high sensitivity couple with (very) low impedance can just result in a lot of electronic noise (hissing). So if you're using a smartphone and without any feedback on how it is with at least an IEM with comparable sensitivity and lower impedance, it's safer to get the 105dB IEM (in any case just make sure it's over 100dB) unless the 130dB IEM at the very least has about 32ohms.

I'll keep in mind this, thanks!

 

[ProtegeManiac]

 
By TT you mean turntable, right? 

 
Yes
 

 
But I have never seen any SPDIF in any devices I have. I guess it's the best existing connection?

 

Ever used an actual desktop PC or MAC? Here's a motherboard with two of them - the orange RCA is coax and the grey square (it's actually a flap cover) is optical.

https://mybroadband.co.za/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=85761&d=1385810565

 

 
No, it only has 3.5mm unfortunately though using E10K won't work with Nahimic 2 like you said. But from your link, it appears that mixamp boxes for creating virtual surround exist. Also I read that bass won't be good for hardcore gamer. So it's kinda funny because I love bass for music but it will be a pain for fps. So I can imagine that Nahimic could do the trick or some EQ softwares? 

 

Check this part of the manual on your specific MSI model and see if it says the same thing as my friend's version (AFAIK it uses the same basic board as yours) has a 3.5mm combo jack. Unlike older HPs, they just didn't bundle one with it, but you can get a "3.5mm optical adapter" from Amazon.

 

 

 
Also I read that bass won't be good for hardcore gamer. So it's kinda funny because I love bass for music but it will be a pain for fps. 

 

I use a bassy headphone on my desktop gaming rig - Superlux HD330 - and it helps explosions, crashing walls, and thundering cavalry sound better. Virtual surround handles the positional cues anyway.
 
 
Quote:

  But from your link, it appears that mixamp boxes for creating virtual surround exist. 

 
I have the Xonar U3 and the SB E5 and X7 have the same feature.
 

 
I see, I didn't know that people don't really like bass. Well for clear music and work, I guess it's more precise to work without something too "bassy".

 

It depends on the target market. The initial and entry level Aurisonics designs were intended to aid vocalists hear the beat and their own voices a bit more than the screaming guitars for example, some audiophiles tried it thinking HiFi and all "Pro" uses are the same (ie, HiFi is more synonymous with studio mastering work, including checking on other systems, than specific things each band member has to hear) especially after they were absorbed by Fender, and then they put the low ratings on the Amazon page. 

 

Note that even without EQ I'd still use these over most other IEMs as the fit in my ears is great (spreads friction around the outer ear vs just in the ear canal).

 

 
But one says that these IEMs are amazing because he's a bassist. I also looked at some "drummer and bassist IEM's guide" but they tend to put first Audio Technica and SE846 (way too much money for me). I was astonished by their ranking.
https://www.pricenfees.com/best-in-ear-monitors-for-drummers.html 

 
Well I used to be a vocalist and while I play guitar more at home, I write rhythm guitar and bass lines more.
 

 
Thanks to you, I found an EQ inside Spotify. It's "totally" customizable. So you recommand to cut off around 1000Hz? 

 
No, I mean do a minor cut at 1000hz - like, -1/-2dB, and then do -3/-4dB everywhere below 1000hz save for if the lowest band is at 50hz or lower. In that case, don't touch the lowest band.
 

 
You use NeutronMusicPlayer with FLAC music or why don't you only keep Spotify in high resolution?

 

I do keep Spotify in high resolution. But I have FLAC with Neutron because 1) I use my smartphone as a music server so I might as well have my favorite albums locally stored in FLAC and 2) I'm too lazy to keep a separate 320kbps and FLAC archive especially when it's also my server anyway and Spotify serves up, AFAIK, 320kbps VBR on Extreme Quality.

 

[Notinspired]

   

Ever used an actual desktop PC or MAC? Here's a motherboard with two of them - the orange RCA is coax and the grey square (it's actually a flap cover) is optical.

https://mybroadband.co.za/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=85761&d=1385810565

No, I've never owned or used a desktop or Mac with one of them. So it's really new for me. I've always used 3.5mm.
 
 

   

Check this part of the manual on your specific MSI model and see if it says the same thing as my friend's version (AFAIK it uses the same basic board as yours) has a 3.5mm combo jack. Unlike older HPs, they just didn't bundle one with it, but you can get a "3.5mm optical adapter" from Amazon.

 

Wow you made my day! I didn't know that mine was S/PDIF-Out supported too. But how to use it? I thought optical was this :
https://www.amazon.ca/FosPower-Plated-Toslink-Digital-Optical/dp/B00T6OVR8K/ref=pd_bxgy_23_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=D9WNGH86NSQTAZ2JRFWP
 
But after what, I found this :
https://www.amazon.ca/FosPower-Plated-Toslink-Digital-Optical/dp/B00T8HWV62/ref=pd_cp_23_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8ZW074PX0HTF9K4TTXRF
 
Does toslink is still optical? Should I plug it into the 3.5mm hole? What is the difference between optical, coax and 3.5mm? (I guess it should be a matter of quality...).
 
And how to use it because the E10K doesn't support optical? Should I replace it with something like this in order to use a DAC + Nahimic 2?
https://www.amazon.ca/Neoteck-Digital-Converter-Optical-Coaxial/dp/B01HRJ9P84/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1490064189&sr=1-3&keywords=3.5mm+optical+adapter
 
 
 
 

   
I have the Xonar U3 and the SB E5 and X7 have the same feature.

Why do you need all these? Which one is better? Is it interesting for someone like me who already has Nahimic 2? (well I saw a lot of people saying that Nahimic 2 isn't good stuff, that it should be uninstalled, etc.)
 
 

   

Note that even without EQ I'd still use these over most other IEMs as the fit in my ears is great (spreads friction around the outer ear vs just in the ear canal).

They designed (Aurisonics/Fender) them in order to have friction around the outer ear vs others brands whose friction are in the ear canal? How is it possible?
 
 

   
No, I mean do a minor cut at 1000hz - like, -1/-2dB, and then do -3/-4dB everywhere below 1000hz save for if the lowest band is at 50hz or lower. In that case, don't touch the lowest band.

Thank you!

 

[ProtegeManiac]

 
Wow you made my day! I didn't know that mine was S/PDIF-Out supported too. But how to use it? I thought optical was this :
https://www.amazon.ca/FosPower-Plated-Toslink-Digital-Optical/dp/B00T6OVR8K/ref=pd_bxgy_23_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=D9WNGH86NSQTAZ2JRFWP

 
That's the normal cable, when both devices being connected use the normal socket. Like a CDP and a DAC.
 

 
But after what, I found this :
https://www.amazon.ca/FosPower-Plated-Toslink-Digital-Optical/dp/B00T8HWV62/ref=pd_cp_23_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8ZW074PX0HTF9K4TTXRF

 
That one already has the 3.5mm style optical plug on one end, instead of requiring the adapter socket.
 

 
Should I plug it into the 3.5mm hole? 

 
Yes. Just double check the manual specific to your laptop model to make sure it does have optical output on the 3.5mm port.
 

  Does toslink is still optical? 

 
Yes. It's an alternate name for it.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TOSLINK
 

  What is the difference between optical, coax and 3.5mm? (I guess it should be a matter of quality...).

 

3.5mm is just the size of the jack. Inherently designed for analog output but eventually they worked out a combo jack design so it can work as a toslink output with the correct plug. Obviously digital output passes on digital audio to be decoded by another DAC. Some portable players also use 3.5mm for coax 75ohm digital.

 

Between coax and optical, when it comes to sound quality, no real difference. It's a matter of convenience. Technically it's easier to use a 3.5mm for coaxial 75ohm digital, since it's just a matter of having a 3.5mm cable crimped to the other socket, but the problem was the jack design. Optical can be built into it as a combo jack because it's basically a flashlight that just goes into the end of the socket, while coax has to use the same contact points for digital transmission, and so even Ibasso and Fiio DAPs that use coax 3.5mm have to use two separate 3.5mm sockets. Note though that one reason why optical fibre was also favored for DAC-HPamps and CDPs pre-USB and iPods/DAPs/smartphones is because they sit flush in the chassis either as a stand alone jack or built into the 3.5mm. One reason for Fiio and Ibasso going with separate jacks for 3.5mm coax though was that optical fibre broke easily, and people would rather hunt down coax cables that were not meant for pro use or even then just use such stiff cables rather than use one that breaks easily.
 

  And how to use it because the E10K doesn't support optical? Should I replace it with something like this in order to use a DAC + Nahimic 2?
https://www.amazon.ca/Neoteck-Digital-Converter-Optical-Coaxial/dp/B01HRJ9P84/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1490064189&sr=1-3&keywords=3.5mm+optical+adapter

 

First off, that won't work with the E10K as its coax port is for coax output, ie, converting USB digital audio to 75ohm coaxial SPDIF, so you can use a computer with an older DAC for example.

 

Second, no, you won't use the E10K anymore.

 

Third, it's not just for Nahimic, it's also for all the other gear you wanted to use with a preamp with several inputs that got us discussing these to begin with.
 

 
Why do you need all these? Which one is better? Is it interesting for someone like me who already has Nahimic 2? (well I saw a lot of people saying that Nahimic 2 isn't good stuff, that it should be uninstalled, etc.)

 
I only mentioned those alternatives to it because you mentioned Mixamp. Also, just in case Nahimic doesn't work via USB or even optical output, then you can use those instead. Not really sure how it stacks up but if Creative fixes the driver issues then the SB E5 is an option.

Originally Posted by Notinspired /img/forum/go_quote.gif  
But from your link, it appears that mixamp boxes for creating virtual surround exist.

 
 
 

 
They designed (Aurisonics/Fender) them in order to have friction around the outer ear vs others brands whose friction are in the ear canal? How is it possible?

 
The shape. The type of shell Aurisonics uses approximates the shape of a custom IEM, but the bore/spout is still a regular bayonet mount for a universal fit ear tip instead of custom moulded for each ear canal.
 
Here's a custom IEM.
 


Here's the more usual IEM shell shape.


Here's the Fender DXA1/Aurisonics Eva.

Here's the Aurisonics Kicker/Fender FXA-2. See how it fills up the outer ear? Not custom fit but it's still mostly in concact with it, basically half-sitting on the outer ear area rather than just anchored by the eartip and cable.

 

[Notinspired]

   
Yes. Just double check the manual specific to your laptop model to make sure it does have optical output on the 3.5mm port.

It is supported. It's written that S/PDIF is supporter from the input 3.5mm.
 
 

   

First off, that won't work with the E10K as its coax port is for coax output, ie, converting USB digital audio to 75ohm coaxial SPDIF, so you can use a computer with an older DAC for example.

 

Second, no, you won't use the E10K anymore.

 

Third, it's not just for Nahimic, it's also for all the other gear you wanted to use with a preamp with several inputs that got us discussing these to begin with.
 
 
I only mentioned those alternatives to it because you mentioned Mixamp. Also, just in case Nahimic doesn't work via USB or even optical output, then you can use those instead. Not really sure how it stacks up but if Creative fixes the driver issues then the SB E5 is an option.

Alright, so I'll need all the Schiit stuffs? (well maybe one day). I read that USB, coax, optical are Digital while RTS is analogue... So I understand that E10K uses the USB port. But in fact, it won't change anything to get something else or at maximum to use the combo Nahimic and DAC/Pamp?
 
Also, is there any portable solution? Because I'm currently in Canada and I'll move back to France in july so I am not able to buy big stuff for the moment. Or should I only need Nahimic for games? Because  SB E5 is a bit expensive for me even if it looks a nice piece and Nahimic 2 does probably the trick for virtual surround but not for "enhancing" the sound. Well it has an EQ...
 
 

   
The shape. The type of shell Aurisonics uses approximates the shape of a custom IEM, but the bore/spout is still a regular bayonet mount for a universal fit ear tip instead of custom moulded for each ear canal.
 
Here's the Aurisonics Kicker/Fender FXA-2. See how it fills up the outer ear? Not custom fit but it's still mostly in concact with it, basically half-sitting on the outer ear area rather than just anchored by the eartip and cable.
 

Yeah I see much better right now! It looks completely different!  I'm quite existing to see this in real, soon.

 

[ProtegeManiac]

 
Alright, so I'll need all the Schiit stuffs? (well maybe one day)

 

Well that depends, certainly not "all" of them literally. Start with a headphone you want, if it needs an amp then get an amp and DAC for it. Any others will depend on what else you need from it.
 

  I read that USB, coax, optical are Digital while RTS is analogue... 

 
TRS is analogue but again there are 3.5mm TRS-optical SPDIF combo jacks.
 

 
So I understand that E10K uses the USB port. But in fact, it won't change anything to get something else or at maximum to use the combo Nahimic and DAC/Pamp?

 
As long as Nahimic actually works through USB then as long as whatever you're driving with the E10 isn't too hard for it to drive, then no.
 
 

  Because  SB E5 is a bit expensive for me even if it looks a nice piece and Nahimic 2 does probably the trick for virtual surround but not for "enhancing" the sound. Well it has an EQ...

 

Technically virtual surround is an enhancement feature, and if anything, EQ should be better understood as "correction" rather than "enhancement," ie, it should be used to balance out the sound of a headphone/speaker and correct peaks or even valleys in the response.

 

[Notinspired]

Well from here it looks nice even if my ear is red...

 
And here, it doesn't fit... So I should guess that my ear is too small?

 

[ProtegeManiac]

  Well from here it looks nice even if my ear is red...
---
And here, it doesn't fit... So I should guess that my ear is too small?

 

Did you try all the tips that came with it? Barring very small outer ears, you should be able to push them in. That should come with three pairs of eartips, all different sizes (my ASG-1.3 actually came with four pairs). Try the small and medium tips. If you can push them into your ear canals with either but the larger size won't go in, you just need something slightly larger but more pliant. I use the Aurisonics/Fender Medium and Sony Hybrid Medium.
 

 
BTW, when I push them in, I open my mouth wide to flex the ear canals open a bit more (never clench), push them in, then close my mouth (and again, don't clench).

 

[Notinspired]

   

Did you try all the tips that came with it? Barring very small outer ears, you should be able to push them in. That should come with three pairs of eartips, all different sizes (my ASG-1.3 actually came with four pairs). Try the small and medium tips. If you can push them into your ear canals with either but the larger size won't go in, you just need something slightly larger but more pliant. I use the Aurisonics/Fender Medium and Sony Hybrid Medium.
 
BTW, when I push them in, I open my mouth wide to flex the ear canals open a bit more (never clench), push them in, then close my mouth (and again, don't clench).

 
I have tried every tips and medium size is the good one but they can't fit my ear. I have to force to get the right ear but it comes out and it distorts the ear. It hurts after 1-2h and unfortunately it holds up badly. The sound is overall better than the Bose but for my ear, it's not a really huge gap like I thought.

 

[ProtegeManiac]

 
I have tried every tips and medium size is the good one but they can't fit my ear. I have to force to get the right ear but it comes out and it distorts the ear. It hurts after 1-2h and unfortunately it holds up badly. The sound is overall better than the Bose but for my ear, it's not a really huge gap like I thought.

 

That one is closer to neutral in terms of bass vs treble/midrange bias than the ASG-1 series, although it does have a short peak in the treble. As for the sound, I'm thinking you might otherwise be hearing more improvements, but the fit is really problematic. Either it doesn't go in well enough to seal properly or even if it does when you force it, the discomfort is distracting and ultimately renders it useless. You'll have to go with something that has a smaller shell, but I wouldn't jump into Shure just yet due to the impedance in case you'd use it without the E10K.

 

You can look into the Vsonic VSD3 or VSD5. I had the VSD3 and it's closer to the Kicker than the ASG-1.3. Problem with that is the cable is no longer removable on the current versions due to all the issues they've had with the MMCX connectors (same things Shure uses but not sure why they didn't have a problem with theirs). 

 

[Notinspired]

 

 

That one is closer to neutral in terms of bass vs treble/midrange bias than the ASG-1 series, although it does have a short peak in the treble. As for the sound, I'm thinking you might otherwise be hearing more improvements, but the fit is really problematic. Either it doesn't go in well enough to seal properly or even if it does when you force it, the discomfort is distracting and ultimately renders it useless. You'll have to go with something that has a smaller shell, but I wouldn't jump into Shure just yet due to the impedance in case you'd use it without the E10K.

 

You can look into the Vsonic VSD3 or VSD5. I had the VSD3 and it's closer to the Kicker than the ASG-1.3. Problem with that is the cable is no longer removable on the current versions due to all the issues they've had with the MMCX connectors (same things Shure uses but not sure why they didn't have a problem with theirs). 

Well the clarity was nice and they seems as efficient as QC25 for noise isolation. I heard more improvments with the E10K but I'm wondering if it was due to the bass bost... My former in-ear headphones from Bose wasn't with these tips. They act like suction cup and I feel a bit uncomfortable. So I'm wondering if it is worth to resend everything (Fender, E10K) and selling my QC25 to buy custom IEM like these :
http://www.earsonics.com/in-ear-monitors/en/em3-pro/
 
Or these :
http://www.earsonics.com/in-ear-monitors/en/em4/
 
Also, I found "cheaper" ones that are EM2-iFi but I can't find their specs...
 
Would it be too crazy to jump on this or should it last years and will be usefull for musical concert or dragster's meeting (anything that need earpads) ?

 

[ProtegeManiac]

  Well the clarity was nice and they seems as efficient as QC25 for noise isolation. I heard more improvments with the E10K but I'm wondering if it was due to the bass bost... My former in-ear headphones from Bose wasn't with these tips. They act like suction cup and I feel a bit uncomfortable. So I'm wondering if it is worth to resend everything (Fender, E10K) and selling my QC25 to buy custom IEM like these :
http://www.earsonics.com/in-ear-monitors/en/em3-pro/
 
Or these :
http://www.earsonics.com/in-ear-monitors/en/em4/
 
Also, I found "cheaper" ones that are EM2-iFi but I can't find their specs...
 
Would it be too crazy to jump on this or should it last years and will be usefull for musical concert or dragster's meeting (anything that need earpads) ?

 
Well if you can spring for the CIEM and just use it for every set up you have, then go right ahead. I'd do that too if I didn't like the sound of the HD600 too much vs a CIEM that I haven't had a chance to really listen to, so there's that element of safety with having the HD600 in my case.

 

[Notinspired]

   
Well if you can spring for the CIEM and just use it for every set up you have, then go right ahead. I'd do that too if I didn't like the sound of the HD600 too much vs a CIEM that I haven't had a chance to really listen to, so there's that element of safety with having the HD600 in my case.

 
Well I don't know because if I'm not convinced, I can't return them back. Is there any one better between earsonics, westone, 1964 iem... ? It's a lot of money but does it worth it to be a kind of combo for outside and inside use? Or it's not worthing buying a cheap in ear + a good heapdhone like grado?
 
That's too difficult to decide.
 
There are soo many CIEM...
 
- earsonics EM3-Pro
- earsonics EM4
- Audio Erz aud-5x
- JH16 seems to be a reference in the domain but definitely too expensive
- ... Uh...
 
 
I also found this "guide" for anoyne coming here...
http://www.head-fi.org/t/541494/multi-custom-in-ear-monitor-review-resource-mfg-list-discussion-check-first-post-for-review-links-information

 

[ProtegeManiac]

   
Well I don't know because if I'm not convinced, I can't return them back.

 

You can try this one - it's got the same general shape as the Shure. Just note that in my ears it has less bass than the Aurisonics, but in your case, if the fit is problematic, you might not have heard the bass as it should be, so relatively this might have the same if not more if you get it in there right.

https://www.amazon.com/RHA-T10-Fidelity-Isolating-Headphone/dp/B00P0N19LQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1490415666&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=RHA+T10&psc=1
 

  It's a lot of money but does it worth it to be a kind of combo for outside and inside use?

 

It is worth it but in my case I have an amp for use with my HD600 at home. Barring 32ohm Grados and the Philips SHP9500 chances are other high sensitivity headphones would have much lower or drastically higher impedance though, and since you're dealing with lower isolation vs IEMs, then that really makes amplification quality even more important depending on the ambient noise you have to deal with.

 

You can start with the Philips SHP9500S for now and just keep using your QC25 outside if you'd rather have two different headphones, and then try getting into IEMs later. Or get the RHA T10i now and get into headphones later. You have the E10K anyway so you can go either way.