ady1989
Head-Fier
- Joined
- Oct 20, 2013
- Posts
- 81
- Likes
- 20
Hello everyone, I was in need of a good stand and I didn't want to shell out a small fortune for "audiophile" hardware stands. That whole notion can pretty much go **** itself real good. I am not paying 300+ for a stand with those special pointed hi-fi legs that don't actually do anything. I had a few requirements: easy to build (the less cutting the better), SOLID and modular, in order to add more hardware as it comes. I also needed the option for uneven spacing of shelves if I wanted something beefy in the middle. I believe I have found the perfect solution and I'll let you guys and gals on it.
What you need:
- IKEA cutting boards for the shelves (http://www.ikea.com/ca/en/catalog/products/70117921/), they are a bit steep at $20 but the perfect size so it saves me time AND come unfinished - worth the cost and perfect for this application
- IKEA Besta bookcase legs, they come with everything you need (http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/60196513/), the finish is smooth and not as shown on their website
- drill with a very small bit for pilot holes, 5/8" (I think, can't remember for sure) spade bit for countersinking, bigger drill bit to drill the rest of the threaded rod space out
- pencil and caliper (this helps, you just set it and use it as a square to accurately mark the board with the tail to where you want the holes to go) or a ruler if you want but it will be slower
- wood finishing products of choice, I used Minwax stain and boiled linseed oil afterwards, 2 coats each
- common sense
What you do:
- unscrew the side handles from the cutting boards
- mark where you want your threaded rods to go, I have mine so the legs are about 1/8 to 1/4" away from the edges
- drill pilot holes with the tiny drill bit, use a wood drill bit with the sharp pointy tip so it won't run away on you - a drill press helps but I did it all by hand
- take 4 of the unused legs and unscrew the plastic bases
- butcher the bases and extract the metal rods with the big flat heads on them (as seen on my top board) - I used a small hacksaw to cut the plastic in order to weaken and then pliers to twist the whole mess off
- figure out how deep you need the countersinks to go in order for the heads to be flush and use your spade bit to do that with the pilot holes guiding you (practice on something else first)
- enlarge the holes to the proper diameter for the rod with a REGULAR DRILL BIT (not a pointy wood one) and on the top shelf go in from the countersunk side
- if you didn't use a drill press, use a round file to enlarge the holes since they probably won't be straight (in order for the rods to push through and be lined up straight through)
- by this point you should be able to test assemble the entire ordeal, do so (use the through studs that come extra with the legs for anything but the top shelf to sandwich a shelf between a set of legs)
- finish the wood with the products and techniques of your choice, google knows it all here
- assemble and enjoy how sturdy and heavy this thing is!
I hope this has been informative and helps someone out there. It's a really easy project.
Alternate image album link: https://imgur.com/a/eKPqw
What you need:
- IKEA cutting boards for the shelves (http://www.ikea.com/ca/en/catalog/products/70117921/), they are a bit steep at $20 but the perfect size so it saves me time AND come unfinished - worth the cost and perfect for this application
- IKEA Besta bookcase legs, they come with everything you need (http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/60196513/), the finish is smooth and not as shown on their website
- drill with a very small bit for pilot holes, 5/8" (I think, can't remember for sure) spade bit for countersinking, bigger drill bit to drill the rest of the threaded rod space out
- pencil and caliper (this helps, you just set it and use it as a square to accurately mark the board with the tail to where you want the holes to go) or a ruler if you want but it will be slower
- wood finishing products of choice, I used Minwax stain and boiled linseed oil afterwards, 2 coats each
- common sense
What you do:
- unscrew the side handles from the cutting boards
- mark where you want your threaded rods to go, I have mine so the legs are about 1/8 to 1/4" away from the edges
- drill pilot holes with the tiny drill bit, use a wood drill bit with the sharp pointy tip so it won't run away on you - a drill press helps but I did it all by hand
- take 4 of the unused legs and unscrew the plastic bases
- butcher the bases and extract the metal rods with the big flat heads on them (as seen on my top board) - I used a small hacksaw to cut the plastic in order to weaken and then pliers to twist the whole mess off
- figure out how deep you need the countersinks to go in order for the heads to be flush and use your spade bit to do that with the pilot holes guiding you (practice on something else first)
- enlarge the holes to the proper diameter for the rod with a REGULAR DRILL BIT (not a pointy wood one) and on the top shelf go in from the countersunk side
- if you didn't use a drill press, use a round file to enlarge the holes since they probably won't be straight (in order for the rods to push through and be lined up straight through)
- by this point you should be able to test assemble the entire ordeal, do so (use the through studs that come extra with the legs for anything but the top shelf to sandwich a shelf between a set of legs)
- finish the wood with the products and techniques of your choice, google knows it all here
- assemble and enjoy how sturdy and heavy this thing is!
I hope this has been informative and helps someone out there. It's a really easy project.
Alternate image album link: https://imgur.com/a/eKPqw
. As long as you have a drill and some wood bits and a spade bit for countersinking and some stain or other finish, you're good to go!
