[MrA1ex]

Amazing work! what pins should I solder to get it to be permanently in ultra sensitive mode? I'm currently using this unit only for IEM use and it's become unstable because of the IE match switch.

Hello, in the photo I marked what needs to be connected. Unfortunately, I did not take a photo after the complete removal of the switch housing where only the tracks of the printed circuit board would be visible, so there is still a part of the housing in the photo (although nothing will change there, the number of contact pads will remain the same).
Purely practically, I would not do it as you want, it will essentially "kill" the functionality of the device: it will no longer be possible to switch back and, in fact, full-size headphones will no longer be connected (not all, some I think will work fine). It will be like a sports car in the city - a lot of power, but you won't use it.
As far as I know, special adapters for connecting IEM are being sold now, which just perform the functions of IEmatch on the black label (it seems that even Ifi has one, but it’s better to consult with them).
Therefore, I would close the circuit like mine in the "Off" position and buy such an adapter so as not to cut off the functionality of the device.
Of course, it is advisable to test the black label "iematch off" + adapter with your headphones, because I cannot guarantee that they will sing perfectly like your headphones and black label "iematch ultra sens.".
Therefore, all decisions are yours, good luck)

Spoiler

 

[iFi audio]

Hello, in the photo I marked what needs to be connected. Unfortunately, I did not take a photo after the complete removal of the switch housing where only the tracks of the printed circuit board would be visible, so there is still a part of the housing in the photo (although nothing will change there, the number of contact pads will remain the same).
Purely practically, I would not do it as you want, it will essentially "kill" the functionality of the device: it will no longer be possible to switch back and, in fact, full-size headphones will no longer be connected (not all, some I think will work fine). It will be like a sports car in the city - a lot of power, but you won't use it.
As far as I know, special adapters for connecting IEM are being sold now, which just perform the functions of IEmatch on the black label (it seems that even Ifi has one, but it’s better to consult with them).
Therefore, I would close the circuit like mine in the "Off" position and buy such an adapter so as not to cut off the functionality of the device.
Of course, it is advisable to test the black label "iematch off" + adapter with your headphones, because I cannot guarantee that they will sing perfectly like your headphones and black label "iematch ultra sens.".
Therefore, all decisions are yours, good luck)

Spoiler

This guide checks out to quite a degree, but something still has to be done about L500 and L501

 

[MrA1ex]

This guide checks out to quite a degree, but something still has to be done about L500 and L501

Hmm, to be honest, I don’t understand why do something with inductors, because we don’t change the wiring diagrams, but simply “fix” the switch position in the desired position. Did the engineers say that? If so, what exactly did they have in mind to do?
I can be wrong, because without a complete device diagram, it’s easy to get confused here, I’m not even completely sure how many layers this board has, I can definitely say that 2 - top and bottom))
By the way, can you find out how many layers there are, otherwise when you tried to figure out the tracing, then some contacts would seem to disappear as if to "nowhere"?

 

[iFi audio]

Hmm, to be honest, I don’t understand why do something with inductors, because we don’t change the wiring diagrams, but simply “fix” the switch position in the desired position. Did the engineers say that? If so, what exactly did they have in mind to do?
I can be wrong, because without a complete device diagram, it’s easy to get confused here, I’m not even completely sure how many layers this board has, I can definitely say that 2 - top and bottom))
By the way, can you find out how many layers there are, otherwise when you tried to figure out the tracing, then some contacts would seem to disappear as if to "nowhere"?

I can't provide any info about how our PCBs are made, but re L500/501: when micro iDSD BL's IEMatch switch is left in place and linked to remain within the ultra sensitivity mode, something rather undesirable will happen if that switch goes to normal setting. Hope this helps

 

[Henrim]

I've had an issue where the iDSD won't be seen as a USB device by my computer sometimes. I think I've discovered that I have to leave it plugged in for a while, (even though it doesn't say it is low battery) and then turn it off, unplug it, plug it in, turn it on, then it works (most of the time, sometimes I need to repeat this process a few times)

Is there a fix out there for this?

 

[iFi audio]

I've had an issue where the iDSD won't be seen as a USB device by my computer sometimes. I think I've discovered that I have to leave it plugged in for a while, (even though it doesn't say it is low battery) and then turn it off, unplug it, plug it in, turn it on, then it works (most of the time, sometimes I need to repeat this process a few times)

Is there a fix out there for this?

I'd first use a different computer and cable if possible, just to exclude these factors. I'd also install a different firmware for the same reason. If the issue still occurs, the odds are that your micro iDSD BL has a hardware problem with its USB receiver. Hope this helps, thanks!

 

[arrakian]

Hello, a few questions please:

1) Where do I get a replacement battery for the micro DSD BL?

2) Can a larger/newer version battery be fitted in the same space?

2) Is there a trick to getting the board to slide out? I have the front/rear plates and buttons off, but the board’s not sliding easily. I don’t want to push harder and break it.

Thank you.

 

[iFi audio]

Hello, a few questions please:

1) Where do I get a replacement battery for the micro DSD BL?

2) Can a larger/newer version battery be fitted in the same space?

2) Is there a trick to getting the board to slide out? I have the front/rear plates and buttons off, but the board’s not sliding easily. I don’t want to push harder and break it.

Thank you.

Hi there,

1. You can contact our support and ask about spare batteries there: https://support.ifi-audio.com
2. The product's internal size doesn't allow for any larger battery, sorry!
3. The trick is in sliding the board out without breaking the three switches on the side. You'd have to very gently move them up a bit and one by one. Also, the odds are that the battery inside your device is a bit swollen by now and that won't make this task any easier. In short, the procedure is doable, but risky

 

[arrakian]

Can I push it from the back, and out the front? The battery is closer to the front.

If it’s that risky, shouldn’t iFi-Audio have a repair service for this, since there us risk of damage? I wouldn’t want to brick my products.

 

[iFi audio]

If it’s that risky, shouldn’t iFi-Audio have a repair service for this, since there us risk of damage? I wouldn’t want to brick my products.

We of course provide such service and ask each customer in need of a repair or battery swap to contact our support. Then we ask to send a product to our HQ or one of workshops where necessary servicing work is done. Hope this helps, thanks!

Can I push it from the back, and out the front? The battery is closer to the front.

Yup, it should be pushed from the back.

 

[iFi audio]

Yup, it should be pushed from the back.

I stand corrected, the easiest way is to leave the front panel as is, remove the rear panel, then remove the volume knob and one screw underneath and then gently start pushing the entire PCB towards the inside with extreme attention to switches on the side. If these are not lifted a bit one by one, they can break very easily.

 

[arrakian]

I stand corrected, the easiest way is to leave the front panel as is, remove the rear panel, then remove the volume knob and one screw underneath and then gently start pushing the entire PCB towards the inside with extreme attention to switches on the side. If these are not lifted a bit one by one, they can break very easily.

I already put the ends back on and got it ready to ship to iFi for the battery replacement. Who in particular do I contact?

 

[iFi audio]

I already put the ends back on and got it ready to ship to iFi for the battery replacement. Who in particular do I contact?

Please open up a support ticket at our platform here: https://support.ifi-audio.com

...and someone from our support staff will handle your case, thanks!

 

[cleanersonvenus]

.

 

[superuser1]

How long can one expect this device to last? Is buying a 5 year old used device a smart idea? Can it work even if the battery dies, powered by usb?

its a great piece of hardware which can run even if the battery dies out (at least i hope so). Dont expect much from the battery though