[spookygonk]

Sorry, just got the message, have been away (from my PC as well) for a week.  What a lovely surprise!  Have pm'd.
 
Cheers,

 

[x RELIC x]

As promised, a little surprise.......

For 5 lucky guys:

x RELIC x

 

spookygonk

 

Q Mass

 

ojy89

 

miceblue

Please PM us.

We have a nice surprise for you guys. :wink_face:

Dear xRELICx and Spookygonk.

We need you to contact us!

Or someone else gets your surprise.

Hurry up please.

Just saw this!

PM'd

Edit: Man, really hope I didn't miss out! Apologies for such a late response! How exciting!!!

 

[x RELIC x]

Shoutout.......

Ifi Audio is awesome!!

 

[spookygonk]

Shoutout.......

Ifi Audio is awesome!!

Yes, they are! 

 

[malalol]

I'll be travelling to Canada next week and I plan on purchasing an HD600 and an ifi DAC/Amp. Does the IDAC2 have enough power to push the HD600? Or should I go for the Micro iDSD?
 
I plan on using it mainly as a DAC and some months later upgrade my active monitors to an integrated amplifier and some monitor audio bronze 2 speakers... I've read the Micro iDSD is not a true class A circuit and the IDAC should be a better choice for a desktop DAC, also I'm a little concerned with battery management and life and such... But some other people mentioned the iDSD sounds better because it has two Bur-Brow chips and IDAC only one... any suggestions?
 
I'm really bad at making decisions =(
 
If the integrated amp I purchase ends up having a bad phone amp output I'd like to have a good alternative with an IDAC or iDSD..
 
I listen mostly to metal and jazz.

 

[iFi audio]

  I'll be travelling to Canada next week and I plan on purchasing an HD600 and an ifi DAC/Amp. Does the IDAC2 have enough power to push the HD600? Or should I go for the Micro iDSD?
 
I plan on using it mainly as a DAC and some months later upgrade my active monitors to an integrated amplifier and some monitor audio bronze 2 speakers... I've read the Micro iDSD is not a true class A circuit and the IDAC should be a better choice for a desktop DAC, also I'm a little concerned with battery management and life and such... But some other people mentioned the iDSD sounds better because it has two Bur-Brow chips and IDAC only one... any suggestions?
 
I'm really bad at making decisions =(
 
If the integrated amp I purchase ends up having a bad phone amp output I'd like to have a good alternative with an IDAC or iDSD..
 
I listen mostly to metal and jazz.

 
 
Hi,
 
iDSD micro for HD-600
 
or
 
iDAC 2 + iCAN for HD-600
 
 
Try both and see which you prefer. The former is portable and desktop. The latter is only desktop as the iCAN is mains powered.
 
Cheers

 

[Mbeeching]

Look what just arrived at the office! Can't wait to finish work

 

 
It will be replacing my trusty Fiio e10 which has served me well, but it's time for something new.
I must confess I had not heard of iFi until last week but it certainly looks/sounds like my kind of product.
 
Back later with impressions!

 

[Vartan]

http://www.enjoythemusic.com/magazine/equipment/1015/iFi_Audio_iDAC2_Amplifier_Review.htm

 

[gixxerwimp]

 

I just tried using my ER•4P to 4S adapter (basically a pair of 75 ohm resistor in series) and it gets me to from 12 to 3 o'clock with my ZMF Blackwoods (T50RP). Sound signature is the same, but the planar magnetic drivers are effectively a resistive load so that's not surprising. I left the K7XXs at work, but I tried the 75 ohm adapter with my DT 1350s and the change in sound sig is minimal.

 
Got in to work this morning and fired up the iDAC2 with P-to-S adapter and plugged in the K7XXs. Highs seem slightly accentuated, but in a nice way. Bass is slightly toned down again, so not as fun or punchy as stock, but kinda what I was originally looking for when I first got them. The K7XX bass signature has since grown on me, so I'll keep looking for some proper 3.5mm to 3.5mm attenuators like MikeyFresh  got his hands on from Avatar.

 
Just got a set of pre-production iSolution attenuators (see link to post by @MikeyFresh above). The -12dB unit gets me to 1~3 o'clock on the iDAC2 with my ZMF Blackwoods (T50RP mod). It might just be placebo effect, but the sound seems "livelier" with a bit more "sparkle" and "punch" (not increased highs).
 
0dB/-12dB/-24dB correspond to the IEMatch settings on the micro iDSD. It's too bad gain/attenuation settings like this weren't built in to let everyone get to the volume knob sweet spot with whatever phones they're using. In any case, recommended when the production version finally comes out.

 

[spookygonk]

 
Ah, look what the postman delivered this morning.  I am stunned. Thank you so much, you lovely people at iFi Audio.

 

[spookygonk]

Quick question, I'm looking to buy a longer USB 3.0 cable for my iDAC2, but am unsure what to go for (and I'm sure there's prices from a few pounds up to silly money).
 
LINDY 2m CROMO - http://goo.gl/rL2UYI
 
or
 
the cheaper AmazonBasics USB 3.0 A to B Cable - http://goo.gl/PIz5IV

 

[technobear]

Quick question, I'm looking to buy a longer USB 3.0 cable for my iDAC2, but am unsure what to go for (and I'm sure there's prices from a few pounds up to silly money).

LINDY 2m CROMO - http://goo.gl/rL2UYI

or

the cheaper AmazonBasics USB 3.0 A to B Cable - http://goo.gl/PIz5IV

Depends what you call silly money

I use Kimber and am very happy with its performance but if I were buying now, I would most likely get this one:

http://www.futureshop.co.uk/supra-usb-20-type-a-to-type-b-cable-2m-p-8133.html?osCsid=f1kt7g2j497pqt2m5r02ac8ck3


Edit: you don't have to buy a USB3.0 cable. The iDAC2 will work very happily with a USB2.0 cable.

 

[spookygonk]

Edit: you don't have to buy a USB3.0 cable. The iDAC2 will work very happily with a USB2.0 cable.

Really? I thought as it has the iDAC2 has the taller USB 3.0 A socket it would have to be / would be best to use (digitally / sonically) a USB 3.0 cable.
 
Thanks, will have a browse of cables.

 

[iFi audio]

  Really? I thought as it has the iDAC2 has the taller USB 3.0 A socket it would have to be / would be best to use (digitally / sonically) a USB 3.0 cable.
 
Thanks, will have a browse of cables.

 
Hi
 
USB3.0 is backwards compatible with USB2.0.
 
So both types work fine.
 
As a rule, USB3.0 cables are better designed than USB2.0 (more stringent etc).
 
Specs found here:

www.usb.org
 
Cheers.

 

[vnmslsrbms]

I would just stick with a USB3 cable and plugged into a USB2 port.  Why buy an old outdated cable?  I mean I have lots of those already LOL.  Not sure about you.