I want the paradigm atoms...
Mar 26, 2008 at 12:16 PM Post #136 of 147
Sounds like you should use max volume on your computer and coontrol level with the t-amp. You're not going to damage anything.

Headphone out of the t-amp is crap. It's not usable. I'm sure we'll hear from some knowledgable people eventually why this is the case.

Your computer's sound card is likely not as good as you think it is. Upgrading to a better dac with line out should make for a significant improvement.
 
Mar 27, 2008 at 12:50 AM Post #137 of 147
Quote:

Originally Posted by classicalguy /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Your computer's sound card is likely not as good as you think it is. Upgrading to a better dac with line out should make for a significant improvement.


Oh I know it's not that good, but I have heard much worse, so for right now, I'm alright. I just was worried about hurting the amp. What would your guess be as to why the headphone out on the amp would only hiss for the right channel? Does that say anything about my earphones or the rest of the amp?

One thing I really have to get used to is how detailed these speakers are, even at really low volumes. While I'm impressed by the sound, at the same time I'm going "Man, I don't need to be constantly reminded how crappy the quality is for a lot of the songs in my playlist." Lol....

By the way, has anyone else had one of their Atoms' high-frequency drivers buzz for a certain frequency range?
 
Mar 27, 2008 at 12:26 PM Post #138 of 147
If you're getting buzzing you likely have a defective speaker and should report it to the seller right away. Sometimes the mounding screws are loose, and you can try tightening them. But probably you have a blown tweeter and you need to get it fixed.

I don't have any idea why one channel doesn't work with the t-amps hp out, but I would say it doesn't matter because the HP out is so poor even when it's working. You may well have a defective amp, or defective HPs. I'd try the hps in another player, and try other HPs in the amp to isolate what is broken.

Yes, bad recordings sound so much worse on good equipment.
 
Mar 27, 2008 at 5:13 PM Post #139 of 147
Quote:

Originally Posted by classicalguy /img/forum/go_quote.gif
If you're getting buzzing you likely have a defective speaker and should report it to the seller right away. Sometimes the mounding screws are loose, and you can try tightening them. But probably you have a blown tweeter and you need to get it fixed.

I don't have any idea why one channel doesn't work with the t-amps hp out, but I would say it doesn't matter because the HP out is so poor even when it's working. You may well have a defective amp, or defective HPs. I'd try the hps in another player, and try other HPs in the amp to isolate what is broken.

Yes, bad recordings sound so much worse on good equipment.




I only really notice the buzzing for frequencies between 1k and 2k and only if i turn the volume up a little. Otherwise it sounds alright most of the time, but sometimes that buzzing jumps out and it's kind of distracting. Oh well, I'll just take it in and see what they can do.

It's not that one channel of the headphone out doesn't work at all. It works, but when music isn't playing, I can hear a little white noise out of the right channel, and that's only with my Shure's, and I can't imagine them being defective. I use them all the time, and I would've noticed something by now. If I use a standard pair of stock headphones I can't hear the white noise from the headphone out at all. I just didn't know if I should be alarmed enough to question whether or not my amp is defective.

Is there a way I can test it?
 
Mar 27, 2008 at 6:11 PM Post #140 of 147
moseboy: You're probably getting hiss because of an impedance mismatch between your shure HPs and the HP out of the t-amp. I don't know why it would only be in one channel though. Are you sure it's only in one channel? Anyway, I'd recommend not using the HP out of the t-amp. It stinks.

Buzzing from the speakers means somethings broken. If you bought new speakers, you should make them fix/replace them.
 
Mar 27, 2008 at 6:44 PM Post #141 of 147
Quote:

Originally Posted by classicalguy /img/forum/go_quote.gif
moseboy: You're probably getting hiss because of an impedance mismatch between your shure HPs and the HP out of the t-amp. I don't know why it would only be in one channel though. Are you sure it's only in one channel? Anyway, I'd recommend not using the HP out of the t-amp. It stinks.

Buzzing from the speakers means somethings broken. If you bought new speakers, you should make them fix/replace them.



Yeah, I'm not too worried about them fixing it. I just got an e-mail back from them saying all I have to do is bring it in and they'll order what they need to from Paradigm in order to fix it.

As for the T-amp, yeah, I'm 100% sure it's only out of the right channel. It's really weird. It's not that I plan on using the headphone out ever. It's just that I'm wondering if there is actually something up with the rest of the amp. I may wake up another thread to see if anyone else has had the same experience.
 
Mar 28, 2008 at 5:17 AM Post #143 of 147
Hiss from a headphone amp could have nothing to do with the volume level. I had an old yamaha integrated that had a hiss with the volume off as well. It has to do I think with the signal to noise ratio, and the only way I was able to lower the noise was to use an attenuator. It could also just be from your onboard sound card if that's what you're using, with the T-amp's applied gain increasing the noise. My onboard soundcard is very noisy compared to my external DAC.
 
Mar 28, 2008 at 7:32 AM Post #144 of 147
Quote:

Originally Posted by alleyezon_d /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Hiss from a headphone amp could have nothing to do with the volume level. I had an old yamaha integrated that had a hiss with the volume off as well. It has to do I think with the signal to noise ratio, and the only way I was able to lower the noise was to use an attenuator. It could also just be from your onboard sound card if that's what you're using, with the T-amp's applied gain increasing the noise. My onboard soundcard is very noisy compared to my external DAC.


I can totally see how that could be the case. However, I still don't see why it would only be through one channel. That's the million dollar question at this point.
 
Mar 29, 2008 at 3:11 AM Post #145 of 147
Mar 29, 2008 at 3:50 AM Post #146 of 147
Quote:

Originally Posted by jung /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Return and exchange the amp, and see if the new one is better.


If it did come down to that, does anyone know how Parts Express is about returns?
 
Mar 31, 2008 at 2:22 AM Post #147 of 147
Quote:

Originally Posted by classicalguy /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I'm interested in getting some new bookshelf speakers, and the Paradigms are on the list. There is competition in the category from PSB, AV123, Ascend, Usher, Celestion, Acculine and others. I find it hard to choose, because there are few direct comparisons being made by independent and capable people.


Stereophile is a good start point. Paradigm Atom v.5 is rated as Class D. In Class C, they have Infinity Primus P162, Epos ELS-3, etc.

Comparisons:
Stereophile: Paradigm Atom Monitor v.5 loudspeaker
Stereophile: Paradigm Atom Monitor v.5 loudspeaker
Stereophile: Paradigm Atom v.3 loudspeaker
Stereophile: Audioengine 2 powered loudspeaker
Stereophile: Infinity Primus P162 loudspeaker
Stereophile: Wharfedale Diamond 9.1 loudspeaker
Stereophile: Infinity Primus 150 loudspeaker
Stereophile: Epos ELS-3 loudspeaker
Stereophile: Acarian Alón Li'l Rascal Mk.II loudspeaker
Stereophile: Polk Audio LSi7 loudspeaker
Stereophile: NHT SB-3 loudspeaker

KEF iQ9 gets Class C rating despite too much bass. Without the bass problem, it might get Class B.
Stereophile: KEF iQ9 loudspeaker

KEF iQ3 is the largest bookshelf using the same drivers, crossover, and cabinet design as iQ9, but without the excessive bass. Its street price can be below $400, not much more expensive than the above mentioned speakers.
http://stereo.50webs.com/
If you must have smaller or less expensive, there is also iQ1 in the same series.

Monitor Audio RS6 is rated as Class B. The bookshelf version RS1 can be under $500.
Stereophile: Monitor Audio Silver RS6 loudspeaker

For myself, 6.5" woofer 2-way bookshelf is not too large. If I want something smaller, I'll be interested in single driver speaker, without tweeter and crossover.
 

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