I need a 24V power supply!
Jan 5, 2004 at 5:30 AM Thread Starter Post #1 of 6

Tim

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Does anyone have a schematic for a good 24V power supply? I'm upgrading my Pete Millett hybrid amp from the flimsy wall wart. Plus I hated the case I originaly put the amp in, threw it away and decided as long as I'm getting a new case why not have better power too?

I was looking at this power supply at Welbourne labs and was getting excited about it until I saw the price. What a load of crap!
I'm hoping to spend less than $50 if possible. Building it myself should save a few bucks.

Any suggestions?
 
Jan 5, 2004 at 9:14 AM Post #2 of 6
If you're getting a new power supply for the Millett Hybrid, get a 28v one. This will give you extra headroom and reduce distortion, especially into higher impedance cans.

The easiest thing to do is just buy a pre-assembled open frame linear power supply from Mouser or DigiKey. Should run you about $40. If you're set on DIYing the power supply, check out Tangent's easy power supply.
 
Jan 5, 2004 at 2:04 PM Post #3 of 6
I'll second that motion. I tested my Millet with a 24v PS, then found a nice Sola 28v linear on ebay. Nice improvement.

It's a very worthwhile thing to do, to the point where I would say if you are going to stay with 24v, I would just keep the wallwart.
 
Jan 5, 2004 at 2:06 PM Post #4 of 6
Quote:

Does anyone have a schematic for a good 24V power supply?


The schematic of my TEPS is a pretty standard design. It's a lot like the Welborne PS1, without a lot of the audiophile excess.

There's a range of DIYing open to you with this design:

- You can just take the schematic and make the regulator on a chunk of protoboard and hook it up to an off-board transformer. You can get all the parts you need at Radio Shack with the exception of the AC filter parts, which you really don't need if you use a non-toroidal transformer.

- You could etch your own boards and get the parts at DigiKey. You'd have to trim the part list carefully to meet your $50 target. See the FAQ in the TEPS docs for my list of ways to save money on the project.

- If you want a PCB but don't want to etch it yourself, keep an eye on the Mall-Fi forum. That's all I'll say in this forum.

Quote:

Building it myself should save a few bucks.


If you were looking for a commercial supply with performance equivalent to what you can build along the lines of the Welborne PS1 or the TEPS, you are right; a packaged commercial version of these supplies would be quite expensive. But, if the main goal is to save money, off the shelf wall warts and open-frame linear supplies will be cheaper. You just can't beat volume purchasing and cheap labor, and those things gravitate toward lower-end designs. See the benchmarks in the TEPS docs, and compare the $30 Elpac WM080 to the TEPS which costs around $75 in parts without counting the PCB. Made to my spec, the TEPS would probably be $250 commercially. Compare the Creek OBH-2, which is a similar power supply design to the TEPS, but cheaper all around, resulting in somewhat lower performance levels; it's $150.
 
Jan 5, 2004 at 2:19 PM Post #5 of 6
Quote:

Originally posted by tangent
...to the TEPS which costs around $75 in parts without counting the PCB.


This is right where the PSUs I have made tend to fall in for parts cost also. They don't look like all that much, but those caps, diodes, etc. start to add up rather quickly. Then there is the labor involved. You have to like doing it.
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