ady1989
Head-Fier
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- Oct 20, 2013
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https://imgur.com/a/CVilY Please check it out and post any suggestions. I'm always looking to improve my audio! All the details are in the image descriptions.
Thanks for the tips! Yeah, the 880's are on my list but first I need a DAC. The interference I'm getting from my stupid video card is LOUD, never happened with my old GPU. Both the headphone amp and the receiver are sourced from the Xonar STX sound card. The Bijou is using a headphone plug to RCA cable while the receiver is just RCA.
https://imgur.com/a/CVilY Please check it out and post any suggestions. I'm always looking to improve my audio! All the details are in the image descriptions.
Have you disable the motherboard's on-board audio? in the BIOS.
Might consider selling off the Essence STX and replacing it with a low cost Xonar DG or DGX,
Then get an external DAC like the Schiit Modi (optical), connect the DG/DGX to the Modi using an optical cable.
Hopefully that would solve your noise issue, at least for one of your amplifiers.
Why bother getting a sound card for optical out when you can get the USB input on the Modi in the first place?
I see too many problems with using the towers in such a set-up . . .
Yep. Better setup is bookshelves/monitors + sub for a desktop setup. And get a better sub if that's the PSW10. There are significant gains in sound quality and performance when you go up in sub quality.
The problem with using a sub with a desktop system is that it will still be in a less than ideal place. . . .
I'm quite happy using my sub--rather than not having one--without worrying quite so much about all that. You just try the sub in a few places and see where it seems to perform best. That's definitely going to work better than tower speakers that are (a) being placed for more optimal treble and midrange peformance and soundstage and (b) aren't going to perform as well at the lower bass frequencies. And if the towers are removed, there are several places the sub could be tried in or close proximity to the front soundstage.
Meanwhile, the MM-6 measures pretty bad. There are bookshelf speakers and powered monitors that have equivalent bass frequency response
For the cost of the MM-6, I would recommend the SVS SB-1000, which I own. Here is how it measures (from SVS's product page):
When I had a full 2ch set-up - first with the Diamond 8.4 towers and then later the Pacific Pi10 - I also had a JBL subwoofer that I got on discount. I was using it in a more conventional manner (ie not near field), and the sub always had the tendency to pull the bass downward.
When I first put the sub back in its box and put it in storage, I didn't really hear a difference with music, unless I turn the bass high enough to really feel bass drum hits on my chest. For movies, instantly there's a difference, primarily that my windows were not rattling anymore, but over a few weeks I didn't mind anymore.
In any case the frequency range alone isn't the only determinant for the performance of a small sub. Provided that one can live with a not really fullrange response, just like with my 2ch (or 5ch) set-ups, if you have a proper crossover network in the system like with an HT receiver, you can still get more bass out of them than with just the 2ch speakers by cheating on the sub amp gain. The response of the whole system won't be flat, but if what one needs is a compact system, doing so will allow for a lot of audible bass that can be kept tight as long as you don't design an enclosure that squeezes too much low bass response out of the small subs (with his bedroom set-up, the plan also included using bass shakers on the bed to compensate for the very low bass that one can feel). Again, this is the case when the priority is fitting the sub into a smaller setting. Another example are cars with 6in or 8in subs on the dashboard - factory systems use smaller subs while I've seen some show cars (and even actual SQ competition cars) mount an 8in on the dash just to make sure the bass will be where the other notes are. For most other cars though the trouble of mounting it and getting only a free-air sub (which aside from not sounding tight enough might actually send bass notes out through the A/C vents) isn't worth the trouble of just turning down the sub a little bit and using the time alignment on the processor (which is necessary in a serious car audio set-up anyway) to delay the front speakers to sync with the sub.
OP might like the use of Dolby Headphone surround sound that the DG/DGX provides.
Sorry. I have no idea what that means. Never heard that kind of statement about subwoofer output before. Can you explain? Are you saying the sound was localizable to the sub?
A different sub choice might have helped. JBL home audio subs are consider budget level, not good enthusiast SQ class subs.
I think you might be over applying car audio experience to home audio subwoofer setups. Cars are extremely limiting environments that have their own host of problems for subwoofer placement and integration.