How worth it is it to rip my music at better rates?
Jun 8, 2006 at 5:59 AM Post #31 of 54
Quote:

Originally Posted by dannay337
I have about 38Gb or so of music... 12Gb of which is properly purchased on CD or ripped from the library. BUT, I ripped all my music at 128kbps MP3. I'm getting a new iPod, so I want it to sound the best... is it worth it to, like, rip all the CDs I have over again? I know that if you convert a 128kbps MP3 to a 320kbps one, it makes no difference/makes it worse. That means I have to rip the music over from the original CD, right? If I do that I'd definitely have to go for the 60Gb iPod, which I think I'm going to do anyways.

Second thing... does MP3Gain actually alter the music? I've heard that it just edits the volume "tag", but when I edit my ID3 tags I don't see a volume tag. Only in iTunes it has a volume adjustment slider. Does MP3Gain-ing my music make a huge difference? I usually do use the Equalizer on my iPod (Rock/R&B... sucks on my Shuffle, no EQ).




I run 192 AAC on my Ipod. I find it hard to hear any difference from 192 AAC and higher.

anything under 160 bugs me and 128 and below is down right painfull!
 
Jun 8, 2006 at 6:31 AM Post #32 of 54
OP:
I think that it really depends on what headphones are you using and if you can tell the difference between (for example) a mp3 at 192 vs a lossless file.
Personally, I did a test like a month ago using Sony's mdr-66 eggo. I could notice a difference between the mp3 at 320 and the lossless file, but I think it really depends on you. Also, have in mind that if you have bad headphones you may not notice a difference right now... but what if you buy a pair of good headphones or an amplifier later?
 
Jun 8, 2006 at 9:49 AM Post #33 of 54
Stevie G... legend.

Some of his goals are works of art. Watch this year's FA cup, and the Euro Cup. I'd pay every time for stuff like that.


Anyway.... with my lossless sources already on my pc...

Is there a quick and painless way to shift it all into itunes at a lossy format??
Using Apples software, what do you suggest. All the variables above have confused me!
I just want my battery to last, and use the highesy lossy format that doesn't have to decode (like lossless).

Simple answer... how, and which is the best one (ie balance battery and still have excellent SQ).
 
Jun 8, 2006 at 10:19 AM Post #34 of 54
In maybe an hour... I can see a full battery has slipped to mabe 60 - 70%.
That can't be right even with lossless????
 
Jun 8, 2006 at 10:35 AM Post #35 of 54
From full charge this am, in less than 2 hours I have 50%.
Ipod 60 gig 5th Gen with SR60's playing lossless.

Is this right? Is my battery a dud???
 
Jun 8, 2006 at 11:03 AM Post #36 of 54
There is a lot of inaccurate information in this thread.

1. "Joint stereo is a no-no" FALSE. This is a persistent myth that has been debunked many times.

There are two different things that are sometimes referred to as "joint stereo." The "bad" joint stereo is referred to as "intensity stereo," and it is implemented (at least by LAME) only in very low bitrate files. Intensity stereo joins the two channels to mono when they present similar information.

The type of joint stereo that is used in higher bitrate MP3s is called "mid/side stereo." Mid/side stereo-coding calculates a "mid"-channel by addition of left and right channel (l+r)/2 and a "side"-channel (l-r)/2. When the information in the left and right channels is the same or similar, mid/side stereo can use a lower bitrate to encode the side channel, so that the overall bitrate will be less than it would be if encoding the left and right channel separately. Mid/side joint stereo does not join the two channels to mono. Instead, it uses a more efficient encoding method to capture stereo information.

Intensity stereo destroys phase information. Mid/side stereo, on the other hand, keeps the phase information pretty much intact. Correctly implemented, mid/side stereo does very little or no damage to the stereo-image and increases compression efficiency either by reducing size or increasing overall quality.

It is also worth noting that the MP3 codec handles LR stereo or MS stereo on a frame by frame basis, so LAME can uses LR stereo on those frames that require it, but use MS stereo on those frames where MS stereo can save bits.

2. CBR is better than VBR. False. Except for 320kbps CBR, a well-implemented VBR is always going to be of higher quality than a similarly-sized CBR file. Take as an example a file that is encoded with LAME using the -V2 preset (which used to be known as --alt -preset standard). Files encoded with this setting will average somewhere in the neighborhood of 192kbps. There is no constraint on the upper or lower encoding limits with this setting, so MP3s encoded at -V2 can contain frames that are anywhere from 32kbps to 320kbps.

It is true that a 192kbps CBR file will never go below 192kbps, whereas a -V2 VBR file may go down to 32kbps (actually, I think that 32kbps is used only for silence). But it is also true that a 192kbps CBR file will never go above 192kbps, while a file encoded with the -V2 preset will use frames of up to 320kbps if that is necessary for a particular part of the music.

The Hydrogen Audio knowledge base has this to say about CBR:

Quote:

Note: The rule of thumb when considering encoding options: at a given bitrate, VBR is higher quality than ABR, which is higher quality than CBR (VBR > ABR > CBR in terms of quality). The exception to this is when you choose the highest possible CBR bitrate, which is 320 kbps (-b 320 = --alt-preset insane), but this produces very large filesizes for very little audible benefit.

CBR: constant bitrate mode. CBR encoding is not efficient. Whereas VBR and ABR modes can supply more bits to complex music passages and save bits on simpler ones, CBR encodes every frame at the same bitrate. CBR is only recommended for usage in streaming situations where the upper bitrate must be strictly enforced.


Source: http://wiki.hydrogenaudio.org/index....commended_LAME

That H.A. page is a good read for anyone trying to decide what settings to use for MP3.

3. Transcoding from a lower bitrate to a higher bitrate to improve quality. This thread demonstrates that transcoding from a lower bitrate to a higher bitrate actually makes files sound worse, not better.
 
Jun 8, 2006 at 11:21 AM Post #37 of 54
Thanks... still worried about my battery! Where does the SQ v battery graph meet?
I don't want to drop too far from lossless, but I'lll go a little to reap big battery life gains!

Simple: Apple lossless is what I enjoy for its SQ. But I can watch my battery drain in front of me. I would hate to sacrifice too much here on SQ as I use my ipod 60g 5thg as a source for my amp for convenience over a single tray cd.

What's the next step, taking into account charge times. Can it be done via itunes? Or would I need more software. Ideally I'd like to quickly rip all my lossless down to help chagre times, using itunes, to overcome the problem without resorting to too much extra software etc.
discussion of all the formats confuses me, although it is appreciated.

Which one? Preferably the highest I can without chewing up my power. Preferably this WILL BE on itunes (easy).... but I will consider other software for a real dividend here.
Isn't there an easy answer?!
I have 45gigs of lossless to convert, and I don't want to spend hours!
 
Jun 8, 2006 at 12:02 PM Post #38 of 54
I get 6-8 hours of battery using lossless from my iPod, FWIW.

And I while I fully understand what you are saying, Febs, I stand by my comments about joint stereo 100%. Even you said it leaves the stereo information "pretty much intact". That just isn't good enough, especially for headphone listening!
 
Jun 8, 2006 at 12:43 PM Post #39 of 54
Quote:

Originally Posted by Skylab
I get 6-8 hours of battery using lossless from my iPod, FWIW.

And I while I fully understand what you are saying, Febs, I stand by my comments about joint stereo 100%. Even you said it leaves the stereo information "pretty much intact". That just isn't good enough, especially for headphone listening!



That was perhaps a poor choice of words on my part. In most situations, MS stereo and LR stereo are mathematically identical. I would need to go back to some of the articles I've read to confim this, but I believe the exception is for something like Dolby Pro Logic, which uses phase information to encode information for the surround channel. But for all practical purposes, MS and LR stereo are identical when decoded. I would be willing to bet that you could not ABX two tracks that are encoded at the same bitrate, one with "joint" MS stereo and one without.
 
Jun 8, 2006 at 1:00 PM Post #40 of 54
You'd be a fool to think any CBR thats not 320 is superior to VBR. If you do a little research into it, it becomes painfully obvious.

If you use VBR which averages out to mid 200Kbps, it technically is not hugely inferior to 320.

Also its obviously not a well-known fact that VBR files, will have a variable size. Unlike 320Kbps CBR have an unchanging Length/Mb ratio, very roughly 2Mb per minute.
 
Jun 8, 2006 at 1:14 PM Post #41 of 54
Chri5speed........

Do you have any answer to my posts, most immediately above?

Ta

(YNWA)...Cisse is cursed??
 
Jun 8, 2006 at 1:34 PM Post #42 of 54
Quote:

Originally Posted by SAP7
Chri5speed........

Do you have any answer to my posts, most immediately above?

Ta

(YNWA)...Cisse is cursed??



Damn, that looked painful.
frown.gif


I'm off in a mo, I'll reads it thoroughly later, if no ones already advised you.
 
Jun 8, 2006 at 4:44 PM Post #44 of 54
SAP7, iTunes will only convert to AAC.

I have no experience of iPods, so I couldn't comment on battery-life?


My advice would be to convert everything to 320CBR mp3s with Lame 3.97b2. My collection is 70GBs in lossless and it only took me an afternoon to rip every CD. Plus you'd only be converting.

I've never mass-converted?
 
Jun 8, 2006 at 6:57 PM Post #45 of 54
Quote:

Originally Posted by SAP7
... What's the next step, taking into account charge times. Can it be done via itunes? Or would I need more software. Ideally I'd like to quickly rip all my lossless down to help chagre times, using itunes, to overcome the problem without resorting to too much extra software etc.
discussion of all the formats confuses me, although it is appreciated.

Which one? Preferably the highest I can without chewing up my power. Preferably this WILL BE on itunes (easy).... but I will consider other software for a real dividend here.
Isn't there an easy answer?!
I have 45gigs of lossless to convert, and I don't want to spend hours!



Ok this is going to be sort of rough around the edges, as I don't use iTunes anymore, but I'll do my best. IIRC, you'll need to go into the iTunes preferences and change your "import" settings... personally, I don't see any point going over 192kbps VBR for portable use, (or less, try some double blind tests..). Once you have it set where you want it, just select all your ALAC files and right click -> convert to AAC... that should do it. Just make sure you keep a copy of your ALAC, unless you want to encode to something different later.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top