How to make an interconnect Step by Step With Pics
Oct 19, 2005 at 5:16 PM Post #361 of 1,012
Oct 19, 2005 at 5:23 PM Post #362 of 1,012
Quote:

Originally Posted by finallyfree
These connectors seem to work well. If I'm not mistaken they have won awards. I have the gold and platinum.

http://www.scosche.com/efx.aspx?CategoryID=60



They look like the same connectors Zu uses for their cables.
 
Oct 19, 2005 at 6:04 PM Post #363 of 1,012
Quote:

Originally Posted by Oski
They look like the same connectors Zu uses for their cables.


Yes, they do look a lot a like. I don't have any experience with comparing the two on the inside.
 
Oct 19, 2005 at 6:13 PM Post #364 of 1,012
Cable.... If you want to use CAT cable then CAT6 may be the way to go.

Quote from a CAT6 definition:

CAT-6 provides higher performance than CAT-5e and features more stringent specifications for crosstalk and system noise. Using all Category 6 components throughout the signal path should result in a Power-Sum Attenuation-to-Crosstalk Ratio (PS-ACR) that is greater than or equal to zero at 200 MHz.

I don't know if it's just the manufacturer who made the cable but the CAT6 cable I've seen (and I've only seen one brand) has silver coated copper wire and not plain copper.

Also the twisted pairs on the CAT6 I've seen are twisted much tighter. I think brains twisted tighter work better too.
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edited to add:
this is what's on the cable: AVAYA-D SYSTIMAX 1074E 4/24 (UL) CM ER40032
 
Nov 15, 2005 at 12:17 AM Post #366 of 1,012
I would like to make my own cables, and have read all 19 pages of this thread(my eyes hurt). I would just like someone with a little more experience than I to go over my list to make sure I have everything correct. I'm going to be making a 25' headphone extension cable so that I can listen/watch TV when the baby is sleeping
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and a small mini to mini cable.

30' of Canare Star-Quad Microphone Cable(L-4E6S BE )
(2) Right Angle 3.5mm 3 Conductor Plug with Nickel Handle and Plug(35HDRANN )
(1) 1/4 Stereo Phone Male with Spring Strain Relief(SP-SSP )
(1) 1/4 Phone Female Connector(SPF )
25' of 1/4" Techflex(082-316 )
12mm Heatshrink(080-674 )

I was unsure of the Techflex & Heatshrink sizes. I want to heatshrink the cable & connectors like RnB180's on this page:

http://www6.head-fi.org/forums/showt...&page=13&pp=20

Thank you for your time/assistance!
 
Nov 15, 2005 at 3:06 AM Post #367 of 1,012
I think the size of the tech flex and shrink are right on the money. I think you should up the footage to account for screwups and for the fact that you'll probably want to make more. I'd go with 40 ft. of cable and 50 ft. of tech flex.
 
Nov 15, 2005 at 3:10 AM Post #368 of 1,012
wow, flashback,
that was my first mini cable ever.

I dont know much about tecnec,

Id recommend the Neutrik 1/4" connector and switchcraft female 1/4" TRS

that one you linked looks kind of cheap, cheap generic connectors are the last thing you want.

Neutriks and Switchcrafts are the ONLY connectors I will use, just because they are industry standard in the music biz, and I have had nothing but good experience with them.

The boots I use are adhesive lined, using a hair dryer IIRC. The pic you linked used some wierd cat cable I picked up at frys and sounded horrible.

Starquad is a nice cable to start with, but IMO the quality of the conductors and insulation are rather poor in comparison to other stuff I have worked with, sonically its pretty good but too inflexible for my tastes. Should be fine for headphone extension, but depending on the length of the mini, you might find yourself fighting with it.
 
Nov 16, 2005 at 5:19 AM Post #372 of 1,012
RnB, what is your cable preference for a more flexible interconnect? I bought a few generic connectors to test out my soldering skills and I've got it down, I think that's the hard part.
 
Nov 17, 2005 at 8:16 PM Post #373 of 1,012
what makes star quad inflexible is the very thick pvc dielectric/insulation. and the tinned braid shield.

The most flexible would be braided wire of your choosing, intertwining the positive and negative conductors would help provide shielding within itself.

there are too many wire types to choose from, let alone, awg, manufacturer and so on. the fun part of cables is making one, then making another, and hearing the differences. Took me about 10-15 different wire types and a few months before I found one I was happy with
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Eventually, the wire that I was happy with cost me a several hundred dollars and followed specifications that my purpose called for from only one particular manufacturer as I thought it sounded the best out of all the others. I have 1000s of feet of wire I will never use, and piles of ebay wire I will never use, solely because its none of them meet a sound and quality I was looking for.
 
Nov 21, 2005 at 11:01 AM Post #374 of 1,012
Quote:

Originally Posted by Tech2
You should tin* the wires first. This will hold the individual strands together.

*To tin the wires: Put some liquid solder flux on the stripped wire. Load up your soldering iron tip with some molten solder and touch it to the stripped wire. The solder should wick its way into the wire and "solder" the strands together.

Now you can bend the tinned wire into a hook shape and push it easily through the hole in the terminal. Bend the wire around the terminal (like the letter "J") to get a good mechanical connection, snip off any excess wire and solder the wire to the terminal.

Edit: Oops, RnB180 already answered your question.
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If you don't have any flux at hand, but the solder you are using has flux in it...how do you tin the wires? Just apply solder to the wires.. Sorry am a bit confused and am total noob. Thanks in Advance, Mish!
 
Nov 21, 2005 at 12:18 PM Post #375 of 1,012
Quote:

Originally Posted by mishkakrisa
Just apply solder to the wires.. Sorry am a bit confused and am total noob


Spot on. Heat up the wire and put your stick of solder onto it.

The copper will then "soak up" the solder and the wire will be tinned.

Rob.
 

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