[TimHKG]

1. Does anybody know what is the exact replacement model of the bass driver units(made by Sonion?) using with Ultimate Ears Super.fi 5 Pro?
 
2. Or is there any some others size-fitting, newer and better replacement bass driver unit suitable for the UE Super.fi 5 Pro?
 
3. I want to buy several pieces of bass driver units for the UE Super.fi 5 Pro, could anybody suggest links with lowest prices for the direct order?
 
Thanks in advance!

 

[edba2000]

Sonion drivers are only sold by:
 
http://www.audiotronics.it
 
or
 
http://www.colsanmicro.com/
 
unfortunately there is a minimum quantity order of 25 units/driver!

 

[TimHKG]

Quote:

Sonion drivers are only sold by:
 
http://www.audiotronics.it
 
or
 
http://www.colsanmicro.com/
 
unfortunately there is a minimum quantity order of 25 units/driver!

 
Thanks for the information! So is there any suitable model number of the bass driver unit manufactured by Knowles suitable for the Super.fi 5 Pro?
 
Thanks in advance!
 
 

 

[piotrus-g]

Quote:

 
Thanks for the information! So is there any suitable model number of the bass driver unit manufactured by Knowles suitable for the Super.fi 5 Pro?
 
Thanks in advance!
 
 

Yes, you can order Ci22955 from mouser or any other retailer
UE super5pro use 2015 however those drivers are propietary so it's not so simple to replace those drivers...
 

 

[febtiger]

Looks to be a very awesome project. I'm waiting for more updates.
 
And I'm gonna refuse to buy the expensive custom IEM I was looking at last month. Those 22955s are only $20????????
 
Mind blown

 

[skippy]

i've been out of the headphone loop for many years and i'm incredibly astounded by the DIY community right now.  this is way past the the crappy grado mods and DIY opamp amps we were doing a decade ago.
 
so here's my question (sorry if this has been covered already), has anyone tried making cheap etymotics by purchasing the knowles drivers and ER20 ear plugs?  throw in a pair of resistors, some cabling, a plug and cover the mess with some shoe goo/epoxy/heatshrink.  sounds like a couple hours of easy work and not too much cash.
 
/me heads off to mouser

 

[edba2000]

Yes, that could be an easy solution!
But you will never get the insulation of a "perfect fit" custom IEM.
 
Make a real shell with Knowles/Sonion drivers inside. I am currently playing with EasyCast casting epoxy resin to make my first shell.
I will report my results in a couple of weeks...

 

[eafd]

Hey guys, long time lurker here. Wonder if this thread is still alive. Anyhow, I was planning to build my own CIEMs. I'm going to use a TWFK+CI22955 combo. I have all of the drivers and I was soldering them up according to the datasheets when I ran into these notes: On the CI22955, a positive voltage on the positive terminal causes an increase in pressure, while a positive voltage on the positive terminal of the TWFK causes a decrease in pressure. Does this mean I have to wire one of the drivers in backwards?

Datasheets:
http://www.knowles.com/search/prods_pdf/CI-22955-000.pdf
http://www.knowles.com/search/prods_pdf/TWFK-30017-000.pdf

Also, does anyone know where the vent of the TWFK is located? The datasheet mentions vents on the unused terminals, and I'm assuming that the vents are the tiny holes to the outer corners of the top set of contacts. Not sure, though.

 

[tranhieu]

Quote:

Hey guys, long time lurker here. Wonder if this thread is still alive. Anyhow, I was planning to build my own CIEMs. I'm going to use a TWFK+CI22955 combo. I have all of the drivers and I was soldering them up according to the datasheets when I ran into these notes: On the CI22955, a positive voltage on the positive terminal causes an increase in pressure, while a positive voltage on the positive terminal of the TWFK causes a decrease in pressure. Does this mean I have to wire one of the drivers in backwards?
Datasheets:
http://www.knowles.com/search/prods_pdf/CI-22955-000.pdf
http://www.knowles.com/search/prods_pdf/TWFK-30017-000.pdf
Also, does anyone know where the vent of the TWFK is located? The datasheet mentions vents on the unused terminals, and I'm assuming that the vents are the tiny holes to the outer corners of the top set of contacts. Not sure, though.

Yeah I guess that's how you should do it. Not sure though but some guys here had quite a debate about wiring in reverse.
What about the shells? I reckon you already solve that part?
 
 

 

[piotrus-g]

Quote:

Hey guys, long time lurker here. Wonder if this thread is still alive. Anyhow, I was planning to build my own CIEMs. I'm going to use a TWFK+CI22955 combo. I have all of the drivers and I was soldering them up according to the datasheets when I ran into these notes: On the CI22955, a positive voltage on the positive terminal causes an increase in pressure, while a positive voltage on the positive terminal of the TWFK causes a decrease in pressure. Does this mean I have to wire one of the drivers in backwards?
Datasheets:
http://www.knowles.com/search/prods_pdf/CI-22955-000.pdf
http://www.knowles.com/search/prods_pdf/TWFK-30017-000.pdf
Also, does anyone know where the vent of the TWFK is located? The datasheet mentions vents on the unused terminals, and I'm assuming that the vents are the tiny holes to the outer corners of the top set of contacts. Not sure, though.

Yep, that's how mine CI-TWFK is wired.
If you look at data sheet the vent is located between positiv and negative terminal
 
 

 

[eafd]

Awesome, thanks for the wiring advice.

I found some smooth-on crystal clear in trial sizes on some taxidermy site, and I plan to use that for my shells. I've already tried EasyCast epoxy, but it took nearly a week before it fully hardened and even then it's still sort of soft. Smooth on crystal clear 202 hardens fully in just 90 minutes. The only problem is that the urethane can cause sensitization (as someone has stated before) before it's hardened.

Smooth-on says that crystal clear can be used for jewelry, so I'm assuming that this stuff is okay for long-term contact after hardening. I have access to a vacuum chamber, and I plan to use that to get rid of the bubbles in the mold.

Tip to whoever doesn't have access to a vacuum chamber- bubbles get introduced into the mold when you mix it. Another way to prevent bubbles in the finished product besides using a vacuum is to mix the 2 parts by kneading them in a plastic bag (ziplock style) that has no air in it.

 

[eafd]

I've now finished the electronics on one ear, and gave it a listen with a universal tip. The highs seem really muffled compared to the HF3. I have a white filter on the TWFK right now and a gray filter on the CI, and no crossover ATM. What can I do to increase the treble? I'm going to try a resistor on the CI later this week, I need to go buy some low-value 1% resistors for this.

Edit: I'm sure the TWFK is connected, and the acoustic tubing is clear of obstructions. I also want to add that I had to splice the tube from the CI into the tube from the TWFK because I ordered the regular tubing. I couldn't fit two tubes into my ear canal

More updates: Using a treble boosting EQ makes the treble much better. This thing is very sensitive. What used to be a little bit of static with the HF3s is now very annoying static with the TWFK+CI.

Even more updates: I've finished the second one now, with just the TWFK connected. The treble is acceptable now, but the CI is not connected. Sounds like the CI is overpowering the TWFK, so I'm going to put a resistor on it and see if anything changes.

Last edit: I have everything connected and it sounds great with this EQ (does serious boosting to the treble and gets rid of the freq humps in the CI): http://grab.by/blaL
I still don't have a crossover, and I'm waiting for the rest of my molding materials to arrive (hazardous material shipping is different, apparently).

^Don't do what I did above with the equalizer. Turns out fb2k begins to clip when you turn the EQ above 0dB. Instead, I've shifted everything down so that the top slider is at 0dB and everything else is below.

 

[piotrus-g]

I believe that your design is phased-out.
TWFK is one of the best high-driver out there. So if you're getting muffled highs something's not right.

 

[eafd]

Should I flip the connections to the TWFK?
 
The CI is a few millimeters farther away from my ear than the TWFK is; however, I don't think that distance is much of an issue here. A 15KHz signal has a wavelength of .9 inches (23mm), and a 1KHz signal has a wavelength of 344 millimeters. I'm not sure that 2 millimeters will make a change as serious as I'm hearing. I'll flip the connections later today and see if that helps. If not, I'll make the acoustic tubing of the CI shorter, then put a resistor on the CI to quieten it down.
 
I also want to mention that the UE cable I ordered off of ebay was wired incorrectly. The outside pin on the left was ground, while the inside pin on the right was ground. I wired the plugs accordingly, so that shouldn't matter here.

 

[eafd]

Flipped the connections on the TWFK. Huge, huge difference. The drivers were wired out of phase to begin with; the datasheets were wrong. Now all that's left is the molding, gotta order the plastic and rubber.