Home-Made IEMs
Feb 16, 2024 at 8:27 PM Post #15,841 of 15,989
Fixed some issues in the nozzle on these 4BA, 3 tubes, with switches and trimpot. Sonion 20x53 (big like a CI, I added a vent, flat to 10hz), Sonion 23x62, Knowles 33803 (TWFK assy with built in x-over). Good extension, good soundstage. This was the switch position with best phase.

With FIIO BTR7 4.4mm balanced.

Trimpot tune up.jpg

20240216_192333.jpg
 
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Feb 17, 2024 at 8:11 AM Post #15,843 of 15,989
Fixed some issues in the nozzle on these 4BA, 3 tubes, with switches and trimpot. Sonion 20x53 (big like a CI, I added a vent, flat to 10hz), Sonion 23x62, Knowles 33803 (TWFK assy with built in x-over). Good extension, good soundstage. This was the switch position with best phase.

With FIIO BTR7 4.4mm balanced.

Trimpot tune up.jpg

20240216_192333.jpg
Which switches and trim pots are you using? Every time I try to find the right ones on mouser or digikey, I end up with some giant component I cant fit in a shell!
 
Feb 17, 2024 at 2:30 PM Post #15,844 of 15,989
When implemented correctly, the zobel network will level the impedance response and provide a much more stable driver response. In turn, making it tamable. Using an L-pad followed by a zobel, works really well on the hvodtec. In some cases, a zobel, tubing and a damper will get it done.
Thank you . Because im thinking to apply it with sonion 3800 subbass .
Should i put capacitors and resistors on top of each other? I think this way It will be easier to solder .
Also, what value capacitors I need ? 22 uf will do?
 
Feb 17, 2024 at 4:45 PM Post #15,845 of 15,989
Which switches and trim pots are you using? Every time I try to find the right ones on mouser or digikey, I end up with some giant component I cant fit in a shell!
Dip switches with 1.27mm pin spacing, aliexpress is a good source and I've been reliably getting stuff in less than 3 weeks to the US lately. Only adjust the switches with a wooden toothpick or similar, nothng hard or sharp. Use strips of kapton tape to avoid potential shorts. See post 12518, it's basically the entire design and I think I posted part info somewhere earlier. Edit: Bourns trimmer resistor 50ohm PVG3G500C01R00
 
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Feb 19, 2024 at 4:35 AM Post #15,846 of 15,989
Thank you . Because im thinking to apply it with sonion 3800 subbass .
Should i put capacitors and resistors on top of each other? I think this way It will be easier to solder .
Also, what value capacitors I need ? 22 uf will do?
This will more than likely require you test for impedance using your audio source. Audio sources can vary in their passive impedance signal thereby changing the electrical response of all passive components. @piotrus-g commented on this many moons ago. (Side note Ive been doing this “hobby” for too long and Ive forgotten so much). Once you know those values, you can start your calculations for the zobel components. Its also important to have the ability to test electrical impedance after connecting the zobel. There should be no electrical phase shift in the circuit if the proper values are applied to the resistor and capacitor. You will see electrical phase shift if improper values are used or if the capacitor and/or resistor values have a tolerance of more than say 5-10%. You want to use components with a tighter variation whenever possible. For resistor I recommend SMT MELF resistors and SMT resistors with less than 3% deviation.
 
Feb 22, 2024 at 1:59 AM Post #15,851 of 15,989
This will more than likely require you test for impedance using your audio source. Audio sources can vary in their passive impedance signal thereby changing the electrical response of all passive components. @piotrus-g commented on this many moons ago. (Side note Ive been doing this “hobby” for too long and Ive forgotten so much). Once you know those values, you can start your calculations for the zobel components. Its also important to have the ability to test electrical impedance after connecting the zobel. There should be no electrical phase shift in the circuit if the proper values are applied to the resistor and capacitor. You will see electrical phase shift if improper values are used or if the capacitor and/or resistor values have a tolerance of more than say 5-10%. You want to use components with a tighter variation whenever possible. For resistor I recommend SMT MELF resistors and SMT resistors with less than 3% deviation.
Thank you
 
Feb 22, 2024 at 2:53 AM Post #15,852 of 15,989
HELLO,DOES ANYBODY KNOW WERE TO PURCHASE UNIVERSAL EMPTY 3D PRINTED SHELLS 2 PIN OR MMCX I HAVE PURCHASED FROM SOUNDLINK AND PIOTRUS-G GAVE ME A LINK.HAD MASM-7 MADE BUT DIDNT USE SLA NEED ALOT OF WORK PLEASE HELP
you could, depending on the design of your choosing, simply enlarge the 3mm hole that is pre-drilled, to accomodate for the 2-pin. I would look at the recessed mount 2-pins over the flush mounts to insure you will fully cover and fill the drilled out area.
 
Feb 22, 2024 at 12:02 PM Post #15,853 of 15,989
Hello guys,
Can you guys please help me with some advices?
I am new to this kind of things soo I came with a list of questions. Before that here is my drivers and kind of how I would put them in the case(behind the round magnet are the BA drivers)
oDDUrqr.jpeg
FJhnJah.jpeg

Link to products:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004969780594.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006257872036.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004078428651.html

Questions:
1-Are the drivers good or decent?
2-What is the best way to position them?
3-Is the positions of the drivers ok?
4-How to tune the drivers(the hardware way, maybe a schematic)?
5-Do I need a dumpers for them(the BA and electrostatic drivers)?
6- Where can i find some of that flexible tube that is in europe and delivers to most of the countries from it(one of the drivers came with the tube but I want to buy more to have some spare)?
7- Can I use T-1000 as a mounting glue?

Open to suggestions.
Thanks!
 
Feb 23, 2024 at 3:46 AM Post #15,854 of 15,989
Hello guys,
Can you guys please help me with some advices?
I am new to this kind of things soo I came with a list of questions. Before that here is my drivers and kind of how I would put them in the case(behind the round magnet are the BA drivers)
oDDUrqr.jpeg
FJhnJah.jpeg

Link to products:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004969780594.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006257872036.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004078428651.html

Questions:
1-Are the drivers good or decent?
2-What is the best way to position them?
3-Is the positions of the drivers ok?
4-How to tune the drivers(the hardware way, maybe a schematic)?
5-Do I need a dumpers for them(the BA and electrostatic drivers)?
6- Where can i find some of that flexible tube that is in europe and delivers to most of the countries from it(one of the drivers came with the tube but I want to buy more to have some spare)?
7- Can I use T-1000 as a mounting glue?

Open to suggestions.
Thanks!
You went for a very complex build buddy :D

1. Drivers are as good as you implement them. Good tuning, acoustical design, and crossover are huge factors.
2. It's hard to tell, as you're using a custom shell with no 3D-printed spaces for drivers. Generally speaking, low-frequency drivers can be used with longer tubes, while mid and high frequencies require tube length adjustments to set peaks at the required frequencies.
3. As mentioned above. The placement looks clean from the top, but it should be closely related to the acoustical design of your sound bores. From my experience, EST works better with a shorter tube. Do you have a measurement rig?
4. Crossover and acoustical design (including sound bore diameter and length, dampers, and even chambers that couple two or more drivers into one tube) are crucial. Overall, you can think about using BAs as a bandpass driver, DD with a lowpass, and EST works well only in high frequencies, so you'll need to use a highpass filter there. After that, it's all about trial and error and calculations to get the proper crossover points.
5. Everything depends on the signature you want to achieve. I would probably use a damper on the DD for low frequencies (like 2200 or 4700 ohms), and a smaller damper for the BA combo to smooth out the midrange. You can use a smaller ID tube for DD, and bigger for BAs and EST. EST does not require a damper, in my opinion, but with electrostatic drivers, acoustic design is everything - play with tube diameter, lengths, and well-calculated horns work well too. Don't forget to cross it relatively high too.
6. Search for PVC tubing at your local supplier or just order from AliExpress from Soundlink - they sell smaller quantities, such as 1m or so.
7. UV glue works best when it comes to placing drivers inside the shell. You can use Fotoplast Gel from Dreve, or a different UV glue with a lower viscosity, gel-like consistency (like Parlite 4760).

Fingers crossed for your build :wink:
 
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Feb 23, 2024 at 6:18 AM Post #15,855 of 15,989
Before that here is my drivers and kind of how I would put them in the case(behind the round magnet are the BA drivers)
Which you can probably throw out now, because neodymium magnet will damage the internal (permanent) magnet of the BA. Speaking from experience.
 

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