Honestly I have no idea, please kindly google it, I have no experience with any of their product. They have white paper on this I believe.
ah sorry for bothering you then, i just had trouble finding info regarding that
We have tested that resin. From my experience with that resin if you rinse prints in alcohol to remove excess liquid resin you can cure it without N2. But if you want to cure shells only after for eg. centrifuging, the N2 protective atmosphere will be necessary to get the surface without a sticky inhibition layer. It is also worth mentioning (like @piotrus-g said), that Siraya tech resin will give you less consistent results and dimension/surface stability in comparison to way more expensive, but also a lot better resins from Dreve (like DLP.A)
No. there are recipes in this forum that will get there.Do you think I'll eventually need some type of B&K HATS if I ever want to hit a target like this?
Allright... Where do I even start?
Search the images for xover then youll be able to ho to that post.
As a rule of thumb I always solder the wires to the female jack with the cable plugged. It helps dissipate the heat and reduce the chances that in the long run, the female pins might get dislodged from the casing and pushed inside when the cable is inserted.PSA for those of us that purchase in small batch components. The last round of black and clear flush mount female 2-pin connectors I received from Aliexpress are INCREDIBLY sensitive to the iron. I typically use my solder at 360-365. Well within range of the Knowles recommendations. These pins will loosen considerably after a couple three taps at that temperature. Im trying to figure out a micro sized heat sync and will keep you posted. If you typically have .75 male pins… it might be high time to have some .78 pinned cables handy. Its heart breaking to see…
Upon further digging, the solder needs to be reduced to sub 300C. The center of the connector can only withstand heat of UP TO 320C.
Here's the thing, the lower the temp the longer you have to solder, you actually want higher temp and be faster with soldering.
you could probably design one and send to local CNC shop or someone with lathe to make some, should be dirt cheap.
Closest thing for me is a round DIP socket for IC. I've been using those during my GunPla days. Haha
Why use a metal fitting instead of designing into the shell?
