[swtnate]

Hey ya'll. I started DIY IEM stuff after loving DIY earbuds. It's a totally different beast compared to the plug+play ease of earbuds. So much knowledge from everyone on this board, so thankful for it all!

I have a stupid question: Does SMB capacitor size matter? I ordered resistors and capacitors in 805. Resistors work perfectly fine. However, after wiring up a capacitor, nothing. I tried testing continuity, but nothing. I see everyone using 1206 caps, so I'm confused if the size matters in terms of voltage they can take, or something.

Ceramic smd capacitors. Size/ footprint does not equal higher capacity. If the iron is too hot you can burn it out. Use a testing rig to test that it still works. Also, if youre wiring a dual driver be sure you wired it correctly.

 

[tonybuild]

I have a funny question . Tube length for CI and ED should be the same ?
I see some people do CI tubes longer .

 

[swtnate]

I have a funny question . Tube length for CI and ED should be the same ?
I see some people do CI tubes longer .

That all depends on how you are tuning and what you are wanting the CI to do. Same goes for the ED. If you’re looking to get a high end extension, 3mmODx2mmID is what I use + a small valued series resistor(5 or 10) followed by a capacitor of 3.3-4.7uf. You want to be sure you account for THD and sibilance (especially if youre mounting it closer to the spout) for the CI I typically use 2mmODx1-1.5mm tubing to cut some of the mid push + and L-Pad to reduce volume and eliminate the higher frequency bump that comes with using a single series resistor. Keep in mind that the CI is a big motor frequency pusher. It can be very loud and over powering. The bass is super tight, clean, and accurate. However, you wont really get that sub frequency like you would from a sonion 38, 33 or the knowles HOD. @piotrus-g has way more experience with using the CI in different capacities. I only use it in a triple driver configuration. The dual driver configuration I am starting to use the BK.

To you‘re real question, test/ analyze response from both the ED and CI for varying lengths. Dont go any shorter than 10mm for either driver. I usually start at like 18-20mm (if it will fit in the shell) test and log. Trim 1mm. Test and log. I have this data on every driver I choose for the build. I could share all that data but because Im essentially standardized to myself and my equipment/mics, the SPL in dB’s and other readings would be different from what you would have or are using. Plus, I always incorporate some sort of damper into the tube. Which, that will move as you trim. Lastly, Im also usually breadboarding with different components in multiple sequences. So, that wouldnt really help the matter. Hopefully my ramblings answer your question.

 

[tonybuild]

That all depends on how you are tuning and what you are wanting the CI to do. Same goes for the ED. If you’re looking to get a high end extension, 3mmODx2mmID is what I use + a small valued series resistor(5 or 10) followed by a capacitor of 3.3-4.7uf. You want to be sure you account for THD and sibilance (especially if youre mounting it closer to the spout) for the CI I typically use 2mmODx1-1.5mm tubing to cut some of the mid push + and L-Pad to reduce volume and eliminate the higher frequency bump that comes with using a single series resistor. Keep in mind that the CI is a big motor frequency pusher. It can be very loud and over powering. The bass is super tight, clean, and accurate. However, you wont really get that sub frequency like you would from a sonion 38, 33 or the knowles HOD. @piotrus-g has way more experience with using the CI in different capacities. I only use it in a triple driver configuration. The dual driver configuration I am starting to use the BK.

To you‘re real question, test/ analyze response from both the ED and CI for varying lengths. Dont go any shorter than 10mm for either driver. I usually start at like 18-20mm (if it will fit in the shell) test and log. Trim 1mm. Test and log. I have this data on every driver I choose for the build. I could share all that data but because Im essentially standardized to myself and my equipment/mics, the SPL in dB’s and other readings would be different from what you would have or are using. Plus, I always incorporate some sort of damper into the tube. Which, that will move as you trim. Lastly, Im also usually breadboarding with different components in multiple sequences. So, that wouldnt really help the matter. Hopefully my ramblings answer your question.

Always like your stuff

 

[piotrus-g]

I have a funny question . Tube length for CI and ED should be the same ?
I see some people do CI tubes longer .

@swtnate 's reply is good advice.
I'd say it mostly depends on crossover as the lenght of the tubing could either emphasize or decrease the effect of delay in response of each driver. There is no right or wrong answer really. CI+ED is such a simple design that going with 2mm ID you could probably use 10mm-22mm on either of driver in any given combination and it would still sound ok. I would suggest Green to Orange damper values on CI and Grey to Brown on ED.

 

[Aldo40]

@BotByte
I use 805 even 603 and it works too, so why wouldn’t it work

 

[swtnate]

So, I just completed a 4 driver configuration using the ferrofluid 38 paired with a 2389D.... HOLY SMOKES!!! I can't reveal the circuit.... allI I can say is they pair incredibly well together with the proper tuning. I will try to post a graph if anyone is interested. lol

 

[musmecca]

So, I just completed a 4 driver configuration using the ferrofluid 38 paired with a 2389D.... HOLY SMOKES!!! I can't reveal the circuit.... allI I can say is they pair incredibly well together with the proper tuning. I will try to post a graph if anyone is interested. lol

well..we obviously want the circuit! lol.... How about the bass?

 

[BotByte]

Ceramic smd capacitors. Size/ footprint does not equal higher capacity. If the iron is too hot you can burn it out. Use a testing rig to test that it still works. Also, if youre wiring a dual driver be sure you wired it correctly.

Thank you! Drivers are wired up correctly--just bare connections work perfectly. Maybe I'm burning them. I've got one of those big bag combo packs with most values I don't use, so I'll try some practice/test wiring.

@BotByte
I use 805 even 603 and it works too, so why wouldn’t it work

OK, cool. I just see everyone and the makers use the larger caps, it's hard to think they're doing something on purpose. Thank you!

 

[swtnate]

well..we obviously want the circuit! lol.... How about the bass?

That bass is thick And isolated. The ferrofluid tuning in that driver is well worth the added extra dollars.

 

[mattmatt]

So, I just completed a 4 driver configuration using the ferrofluid 38 paired with a 2389D.... HOLY SMOKES!!! I can't reveal the circuit.... allI I can say is they pair incredibly well together with the proper tuning. I will try to post a graph if anyone is interested. lol

what's the exact model of the 38 with the ferrofluid?

 

[kha1id]

That all depends on how you are tuning and what you are wanting the CI to do. Same goes for the ED. If you’re looking to get a high end extension, 3mmODx2mmID is what I use + a small valued series resistor(5 or 10) followed by a capacitor of 3.3-4.7uf. You want to be sure you account for THD and sibilance (especially if youre mounting it closer to the spout) for the CI I typically use 2mmODx1-1.5mm tubing to cut some of the mid push + and L-Pad to reduce volume and eliminate the higher frequency bump that comes with using a single series resistor. Keep in mind that the CI is a big motor frequency pusher. It can be very loud and over powering. The bass is super tight, clean, and accurate. However, you wont really get that sub frequency like you would from a sonion 38, 33 or the knowles HOD. @piotrus-g has way more experience with using the CI in different capacities. I only use it in a triple driver configuration. The dual driver configuration I am starting to use the BK.

To you‘re real question, test/ analyze response from both the ED and CI for varying lengths. Dont go any shorter than 10mm for either driver. I usually start at like 18-20mm (if it will fit in the shell) test and log. Trim 1mm. Test and log. I have this data on every driver I choose for the build. I could share all that data but because Im essentially standardized to myself and my equipment/mics, the SPL in dB’s and other readings would be different from what you would have or are using. Plus, I always incorporate some sort of damper into the tube. Which, that will move as you trim. Lastly, Im also usually breadboarding with different components in multiple sequences. So, that wouldnt really help the matter. Hopefully my ramblings answer your question.

I have tried some cobination with 38/33/37/HODVTEC, I feel like 38/HODVTEC/CI have more extension on low, but 33and37 have less bass. How do you use 33/37?

 

[swtnate]

I have tried some cobination with 38/33/37/HODVTEC, I feel like 38/HODVTEC/CI have more extension on low, but 33and37 have less bass. How do you use 33/37?

The 37AP007 works great for flatter responses that are tighter and more accurate. Less overall punch though.

The 33AJ007i/9 I use has punch for days. Less accurate and wider response. Works great in a triple driver paired with the ED or 2389.

 

[swtnate]

what's the exact model of the 38 with the ferrofluid?

I use the 38D1XJ007Mi/8a. Be careful though. This one is dual vented on one side. So, you have to account for that in the glue down.

 

[BotByte]

I'm still having no chance soldering these caps. I'm not quick to blame bad sellers or products, but none of these are working regardless of my soldering techniques. I've tried high heat, low heat, using high quality solder flux and wire, scratching the surface to expose the copper, nothing. Tested continuity before and after with new caps and old. Nothing.

Does anyone have any recommended caps from Ali? I live in Asia, so many western electronic stores are out of my reach.