[stephensynanta16]

Hi guys, its been a while since i posted.

Here's the latest build me & @dhruvmeena96 did. The descendant of the quad rab series.

Now its hexa driver, we scavenge some extra 2x tweeter from KZ . The latest quad has no tube & no damper. Peak & dip is controlled & managed by using acoustic structure.

Transient speed is no slouch, warp speed, distortion is seriously low. This iem is dangerous to listen to, due to the very low distortion, i keep increasing the volume after a while.

Currently, kz tweeter is helding it back, those tweeter cant keep up with the speed of the quad.

Will post the graph soon

 

[HenacanPodwell]

OK so you suggest I continue as I am, rather than get an open jaw which may be more forgiving for movements? I certainly don't want to compromise comfort while just sat (jaw closed) all day in front of the PC. They are in for hours at a time.

I don't think you will be speaking to anyone while using it. Closed jaw seems alright. Or you could try adding wax like the others have suggested. Good luck with your build!

 

[IndyAudio14]

How to wire two sonion 3800 Ba drivers parallel

 

[ForceMajeure]

How to wire two sonion 3800 Ba drivers parallel

Assuming you wire the 3800 in parallel in the 1st place



Then you would need to connect another driver that way

l

I wouldn't recommend doing so though. usually it would be better to have 2 wired in series (with their parallel wiring for each single unit). I guess you'd need to check with the rest of your config to see how it pans out though.

UPDATE!
since the vents on one driver would be obstructed that way ^ you'd need to flip one around.
Thus this is the correct way.

 

[IndyAudio14]

Assuming you wire the 3800 in parallel in the 1st place



Then you would need to connect another driver that way



I wouldn't recommend doing so though. usually it would be better to have 2 wired in series (with their parallel wiring for each single unit). I guess you'd need to check with the rest of your config to see how it pans out though.

 

[ForceMajeure]

Check the update on the previous post.

 

[IndyAudio14]

THANK YOU SO MUCH.I HAVE TWO 38AJ000 AND TWO 38D1X000 DRIVERS .SO FOR USED ONE 38AJ000 IN SERIES WITH NOT MUCH LUCK

Assuming you wire the 3800 in parallel in the 1st place



Then you would need to connect another driver that way

l

I wouldn't recommend doing so though. usually it would be better to have 2 wired in series (with their parallel wiring for each single unit). I guess you'd need to check with the rest of your config to see how it pans out though.

UPDATE!
since the vents on one driver would be obstructed that way ^ you'd need to flip one around.
Thus this is the correct way.

THANK YOU DO MUCH.I HAVE TWO 38AJ000 AND TWO 38D1XJ007 THE 38D1XJ000 IS NOT MEANT TO BE WIRING IN PARALLEL IS IT

 

[ForceMajeure]

THANK YOU SO MUCH.I HAVE TWO 38AJ000 AND TWO 38D1X000 DRIVERS .SO FOR USED ONE 38AJ000 IN SERIES WITH NOT MUCH LUCK

THANK YOU DO MUCH.I HAVE TWO 38AJ000 AND TWO 38D1XJ007 THE 38D1XJ000 IS NOT MEANT TO BE WIRING IN PARALLEL IS IT

As a single unit you should be wiring the 38D1x in parallel or 38AJ as well. usually it's the better starting point, since you will have more bass levels that you can then control with resistance or L pad if you need to lower them. It's always easier to lower the spl of one driver than lowering the rest of the drivers in your config to match it especially once you have crossovers.

If you don't have enough SPL with one 38 then doubling it could help. now wiring the 2 in series or parallel is up to you. in term of inductance to the whole circuitry, often having the 2 drivers wired in series ends up better with multi BA configs despite the higher inductance

(Although technically speaking if you want faster bass you'd need lower inductance since it's the factor that resist the change in acceleration due to the current flow but that's too complicated to dive through)

it might even showcase more subbass and bass than having them wired in parallel depending on your config...but it's up to you. I have no idea if you've low passed the drivers or not etc...there are many factors that come into play. You will need to test things and see. what you are after is having more spl in bass and that's your 1st priority.

If doubling drivers and wired in parallel or series still doesn't give you enough SPLs in the bass then you might need to think of a way to lower the sensitivity of the rest of your config maybe even consider changing drivers with higher impedance.

 

[Aldo40]

Should I look to getting a partially open jaw impression done instead? Will this offer worse comfort while my jaw is closed?

Hi,
open jaws, it’s for singers. leave your jaw as when you listen to your music so normally
closed and relaxed.
a single dip in the wax is enough. apply an extra layer of resin around the channel that improves the fit,
because the print is just adjusted but not tight enough,
the varnish remains fine while the resin is thicker.
lightly sand the iem to make it matte and varnish at DREVE lake 3

 

[mattmatt]

Hi guys, its been a while since i posted.

Here's the latest build me & @dhruvmeena96 did. The descendant of the quad rab series.


Now its hexa driver, we scavenge some extra 2x tweeter from KZ . The latest quad has no tube & no damper. Peak & dip is controlled & managed by using acoustic structure.

Transient speed is no slouch, warp speed, distortion is seriously low. This iem is dangerous to listen to, due to the very low distortion, i keep increasing the volume after a while.

Currently, kz tweeter is helding it back, those tweeter cant keep up with the speed of the quad.

Will post the graph soon

neat! will you be also uploading the schematics and STL?

 

[musmecca]

I may try that as well....if I beat you to it I'll post my results!

OK, Farquarl so I beat you to it! Here is what I did: The left earpiece in the graph (purple) has the original furco design. On the right is new design (dhrem)...4.5uf cap and 42 ohm resistor on the GQ, while I swapped out the tube on the RAB for a smaller 1mm with no dampers on anything. Still a nasty midrange peak, but it appears the spl of the bass picked up significantly on the new design which is what I wanted. It now would seem it's a matter of picking the correct damper...based upon the graph, any suggestions for what to use? I'll have one go as once I put them in I can't get them out...

Images here:

https://imgur.com/gallery/bWsxfF8

 

[Farquarl]

OK, Farquarl so I beat you to it! Here is what I did: The left earpiece in the graph (purple) has the original furco design. On the right is new design (dhrem)...4.5uf cap and 42 ohm resistor on the GQ, while I swapped out the tube on the RAB for a smaller 1mm with no dampers on anything. Still a nasty midrange peak, but it appears the spl of the bass picked up significantly on the new design which is what I wanted. It now would seem it's a matter of picking the correct damper...based upon the graph, any suggestions for what to use? I'll have one go as once I put them in I can't get them out...

Images here:

https://imgur.com/gallery/bWsxfF8

Any reason why you put a high pass on that GQ? Cutoff frequency will be 850Hz which allows the midrange to pass but not the bass. Maybe just add a low pass to the RAB like 100-200uF and a 20ohm resistor.

 

[musmecca]

Any reason why you put a high pass on that GQ? Cutoff frequency will be 850Hz which allows the midrange to pass but not the bass. Maybe just add a low pass to the RAB like 100-200uF and a 20ohm resistor.

Because I am an idiot!!!! If you look at my drawing and reference it to the original Eunice did with Dhruv on post 8298, I put the filter on the GQ instead of the RAB....I inverted the drivers!!!! Arghhhh...guess I get to tear it apart again.....

 

[tirrorex]

standard SLA resin 3D printing has good accuracy and may be right for the task you described above. When designing your shell based on the scan take the design guidelines into account and ideally get with the service supplier in contact upfront to avoid unecessary iteratitions due to failed prints. But it will take some time to develop and still some iterative prints may be required to get things right. Also, 3D hubs is not always the best option. Google for local suppliers.

The design will not be made by me. The guy who will scan the earmolds will also do the 3d file for the printer.
Hum, will try to find some local suppliers but i don't think i will be very lucky on this one

 

[Farquarl]

The design will not be made by me. The guy who will scan the earmolds will also do the 3d file for the printer.
Hum, will try to find some local suppliers but i don't think i will be very lucky on this one

If anything fails send me a pm. I have a professional earmould software and Biocompatible resin.