[tirrorex]

my bad, I think I used the wrong uploader

Dammn, this looks dope
What specs are those ?

 

[cyph3r]

Hello, it's been a while since i went here.
The reason is my friend was looking for bluetooth earphones and i bumped into the FOSTER TM2 which comes with mmcx connector.
Triggering my need for a ciem again (yeah i never managed to motivate myself to do the shells...)

So, anyone here tried to go the 3d resin priting road?
I know some people did hollow shells with classic 3d printers.
Basically 3dhub has a category for resin printing :
https://www.3dhubs.com/3d-printing/plastic/resin/
I have to do some research on what is safe for the human hear for i guess at least one of those will do.

Did you guys talk about colors in the thread? I've seen some sick colors on this :
http://www.kumitatelab.com/images/companies/1/KumitateLabDesignBook2017-2018.pdf

I found someone willing to scan the molds i got from the audiologist and make the 3d model for me so that is sweet.
The next part is the electronics, i still have my old parts
knowlers gk-31732-000
knowles bf-1861-000

But if i remember my last conversation in this post those are out of date nowaydays.
Even though i will mostly use those for sports and commutes, considering the price i will pay for the resin 3d printing i might want to go high-end on this.
But i am not sure i will hear the difference due to the bluetooth connection :/

I listen mainly to techno hardcore (angerfirst and the likes), from rock to metal (basically anything from metallica to slipknot including nightwish and lacuna coil) and some french touch music like daft punk.

Will scroll throught the messages i saved as you guys gave me some good tips last time but that was more than a year ago i think.

Also since i will go resin, is there ANY way to make the shells reusable?
That would greatly impact my decision on the electronics, if i can remove the drivers afterwards i won't bother and use what i have and call it a day.

standard SLA resin 3D printing has good accuracy and may be right for the task you described above. When designing your shell based on the scan take the design guidelines into account and ideally get with the service supplier in contact upfront to avoid unecessary iteratitions due to failed prints. But it will take some time to develop and still some iterative prints may be required to get things right. Also, 3D hubs is not always the best option. Google for local suppliers.

 

[jameswalker]

I am still in the research stage of this. I have probably wanted to make a pair for a couple of years now but never took the plunge. Now is the time.

I plan to visit the audiologist once they have opened again to kick things off.

Next, I will play with moulding. The initial aim will be to make a nice fitting set of solid ear plugs and play with patterns. No drivers at this stage.

After that, I can chose drivers. I am thinking:

Knowles GV-32830
Vs
Sonion 38D1XJ007 and Knowles TWFK

I am a basshead at heart, so I will need decent bass, but I don't want that at the cost of mids / highs. I like a fun sounding IEM, like the aurisonics bravo series which I currently use, paired with EQ / AMP. So which of my above driver options might be best? Or, are there better choices? I don't want to go too complex, I guess max of 4 BAs as per the above based on difficulty of fitment.

Primary use case: while at work in the office, listening to music.

Thanks!

 

[dhruvmeena96]

I am still in the research stage of this. I have probably wanted to make a pair for a couple of years now but never took the plunge. Now is the time.

I plan to visit the audiologist once they have opened again to kick things off.

Next, I will play with moulding. The initial aim will be to make a nice fitting set of solid ear plugs and play with patterns. No drivers at this stage.

After that, I can chose drivers. I am thinking:

Knowles GV-32830
Vs
Sonion 38D1XJ007 and Knowles TWFK

I am a basshead at heart, so I will need decent bass, but I don't want that at the cost of mids / highs. I like a fun sounding IEM, like the aurisonics bravo series which I currently use, paired with EQ / AMP. So which of my above driver options might be best? Or, are there better choices? I don't want to go too complex, I guess max of 4 BAs as per the above based on difficulty of fitment.

Primary use case: while at work in the office, listening to music.

Thanks!

38D1XJ + TWFK

 

[jameswalker]

38D1XJ + TWFK

Much of a difference? Or have we reached a level of diminishing returns? The graph of the 38 sure does look good!

 

[jameswalker]

dhruvmeena96 I have been reading some of your opinions on driver choices earlier in this thread. How would the BS6 with zobel compare to the 38D1XJ + TWFK from a bass point of view? I have ruled the GV out. Thanks

 

[dhruvmeena96]

dhruvmeena96 I have been reading some of your opinions on driver choices earlier in this thread. How would the BS6 with zobel compare to the 38D1XJ + TWFK from a bass point of view? I have ruled the GV out. Thanks

More flexibility on tuning

With 38D1XJ and TWFK

 

[GUNHO]

Anyone know or have any bs6 drivers for sale

 

[jameswalker]

Soundlink has them in stock.

 

[jameswalker]

dhruvmeena96 Earlier in thread you mentioned this:

Just use L-pad on woofer
And use TWFK in full range with WBFK part crossed at 470nF

Do you have any R values for the L pad? Are they actually required? Afterall, if I am specifying the baddest bass BA there is, why would I then wish to attenuate it?

As for the TQFK, high passing the WBFK part with 470nF, does taking away its lower portion of signal change much? If this was a requirement, why does it not seem more commonplace?

I am not against doing either of these things, just wish to know more.

Thanks!

 

[itsnotLupus]

Soundlink has them in stock.

What am I doing wrong?
I still can't see them available "Sorry, this item is no longer available!"
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32970539437.html

 

[jameswalker]

https://www.aliexpress.com/i/32970539437.html

Ah yes, the /i page looks like it is in stock, but the /item page shows that it is not.

 

[musmecca]

So I am doing Furco's original GQ/Rab design of GQ+Rab. GQ has green damper midway and grey just after...Rab has Grey midway....both are 2mm tubes, 20 and 15 length respectively. My question is do I remove the black covering from the RAB and will this increase the bass once the case is sealed? The graph looks pretty flat with a slight peak between 2-3k. Also, I used the GQ30710 instead of the 30783 as it was what mouser had....it has an impedance of 90, which is higher than the impedance of the GQ30783 at 38. REW output link is here:

https://imgur.com/a/SgvhAtT

Just want to get it straight before sealing it up! I do want more bass, flat is ok, but peaked at midrange may not be to my liking....thoughts?

 

[grooveriders]

Im very intersted to making my own iem but I have no knowledge or experince with electronics. I know that some drivers come installed with pcb (where you wire to the jack connector) but how about hybrid iem where there are multiple pcb (eg. 2 set of drivers with seperate pcb, or BA+DD). How are the wires joined ?
Also interested in the Sonion est driver how do I wire it, is it possible to diy a hybrid or tribrid without experience?

 

[LeaveMasonAlone]

Do you have any R values for the L pad? Are they actually required? Afterall, if I am specifying the baddest bass BA there is, why would I then wish to attenuate it?

4.7Ω parallel 5.3Ω series
It is the baddest bass BA there is, but without attenuation it's just too loud. Feel free to try it without, but I don't think it'll be as fun as it sounds on paper I'll throw up some graphs from my iMM-6... if I figure out how to actually record a response graph can't figure out the audiotool app.