Home-Made IEMs
Sep 2, 2018 at 4:59 PM Post #7,651 of 15,989
Hard to say. I haven't done any comparison measurements. However, given the extra air pocket in front of the driver within the tip, I believe there is a good possibility.

Yeah, that's what I thought too. Anyway, thanks for providing a better way to mount it. I won't probably do it in the current pair as there is no space, but if I try to make another pair of hybrids, I will definitely give it a try.
 
Sep 2, 2018 at 10:46 PM Post #7,652 of 15,989
Hey guys, I'm having trouble with curing. I'm using a 36w nail lamp with a mirror under my investment cup. I'm getting really nice gelatin molds with no air bubbles but I'm still experiencing a lot of issues with holes in the walls and very thin walls. In some cases, the walls will end up very thick in one area and very thin in another. My molds seem to be fine and I'm beginning to think my lamp may be the issue. Is there a particular lamp that I should consider using?
 
Sep 3, 2018 at 12:56 PM Post #7,653 of 15,989
Hey guys, I'm having trouble with curing. I'm using a 36w nail lamp with a mirror under my investment cup. I'm getting really nice gelatin molds with no air bubbles but I'm still experiencing a lot of issues with holes in the walls and very thin walls. In some cases, the walls will end up very thick in one area and very thin in another. My molds seem to be fine and I'm beginning to think my lamp may be the issue. Is there a particular lamp that I should consider using?

are your gelatins transparent enough? i had problems with gelatine, recently i started to use egger's dublicant, it's much better. cures in 30 secs.
 
Sep 3, 2018 at 1:05 PM Post #7,654 of 15,989
are your gelatins transparent enough? i had problems with gelatine, recently i started to use egger's dublicant, it's much better. cures in 30 secs.
My gelatine looks exactly like the photos in the tutorial Shilohsjustice posted a while back. Transparent and bubble free, but slightly brown in color. I did some more reading last night and I'm thinking that the holes could be from air between the negative and the resin. I purchased another nail lamp and a solar powered rotator. I'm planning to enclose the mold on the rotator between two lamps standing on end. Hopefully that will ensure that the resin cures evenly. As for the molds, I'm thinking about picking up some krystalloid from Lightning Enterprises but I'll definitely check out the Egger material you suggested. Here are some photos of my mold.

IMG_20180901_223822.jpg IMG_20180901_224314.jpg
 
Sep 3, 2018 at 1:15 PM Post #7,655 of 15,989
I think that your molds are way to thick.
You should make the diameter smaller so that the UV light could get closer to the Acrylic.

I‘d many Problems when I used the big cups, and it was much better when I went with the smaller cups, where I only have a few mm of Gelatine or Silcon or what ever between the light and the acrylic.

You could try to trim it with a knife. I think that should work.
The colour of the gelatine looks good, and the bubbles shouldn‘t be a problem.

:EDIT:
I also started with a rotary stand and so on, but finally I went back to a nail lamp upside down, where the light comes from the sides and the bottom. That worked really good, and I got nice shells within 40-60 sec. Probably for my shells I use some silicon but for my friends I*ve used some agaragar material. The silicon mould stays for maaaaany shells, and you can make them when you want, also 3 month later...
 
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Sep 3, 2018 at 1:27 PM Post #7,656 of 15,989
I think that your molds are way to thick.
You should make the diameter smaller so that the UV light could get closer to the Acrylic.

I‘d many Problems when I used the big cups, and it was much better when I went with the smaller cups, where I only have a few mm of Gelatine or Silcon or what ever between the light and the acrylic.

Thanks. I have smaller diameter cups on the way but shipping from China is taking forever.
 
Sep 3, 2018 at 4:48 PM Post #7,658 of 15,989
Just trim the investment material away before you pour the resin. You are pulling those out of the cups before you use them, right? If not, that's likely your problem

I have been leaving it in the cup out of fear that the negative could be damaged or warped if I disturbed the gelatin. I did try once without the cup and got similar results.
 
Sep 5, 2018 at 11:38 AM Post #7,662 of 15,989
3D printing is not for hobby users, it needs lot of investment in machine , software and the UV material for printing is also expensive as compared to manual method.

Also not lot of manufactures use it has limited options in color and the surface quality is not same like with molds.
We have education centre for research and dev(which is mostly free)
In India, I am talking

They provide 3D printer to get educational project printed.

Indians living in Delhi and Mumbai, there are some education promoting sec8 companies and NGO which help student do scientific project at near zero cost can take advantages...

Get the ear mould 3D printed

Medical plastics filament still has to be paid by us...but it is still cheap

They even provide laser scanning for 3D models
 
Sep 6, 2018 at 12:36 PM Post #7,663 of 15,989
With smaller diameter casting cups I have been able to get better uniformity in the shell thickness. I am still running into some issues with holes in the shell wall. Inspecting my impressions and the failed shells, it seems to me that the reason I'm having this issue is from uneven thickness of the wax on the impression. Some areas of my impressions just refuse to coat evenly in the wax. I'm going to try a slightly higher temperature tonight. I'd like to see some images of impressions after trimming and waxing that can help me get an idea of what mine should look like when finished.
 
Sep 6, 2018 at 3:01 PM Post #7,664 of 15,989
3D printing is not for hobby users, it needs lot of investment in machine , software and the UV material for printing is also expensive as compared to manual method.

Also not lot of manufactures use it has limited options in color and the surface quality is not same like with molds.


You have a point there MuZo2, Indeed there is a steep learning curve and investment associated with 3D printing headphones. It took me roughly a year of serious hobby time and quite some money to advance my "home made IEM" project to a 3D printed, ergonomic universal shell, dual BA driver market-grade headphone. The exterior is customizable in both colour and in three dimensions.

This will launch later in September in a initial limited number production campaign. Anyone interested to learn more, please PM me.


PM_lr.jpg
 
Sep 6, 2018 at 4:52 PM Post #7,665 of 15,989
Guys, got a issue to discuss. It is well known that the bigger inner diameter of the soundbore, the better HF extension. Low inner diameters works almost as a lo pass filter limiting in the audible way HF.
On the other hand, if there is more soundbores in one earphone getting straight to the ear, the sound is more focused, detailed, clear, the soundstage is wider, instruments are more separated.
My measurements shows that the difference between 1ID and 2ID above 5kHz with the same tube length could be up to 10dB (smaller ID, quieter HF).
BUT, many pro audio companies use multi bore constructions (up to four or five soundbores in each headphone). The ID of each bore couldn't be bigger than 1mm.
And the question - how do they got so many bores, that do not affect the high frequencies making sound muddy and not clear? How do they deal with it? I have made in my opinion great construction , four drivers with three soundbores (3x2ID), that hardly fits to my really big ear canal. It will be impossible to fit it into the smaller one. The solution could be usage of smaller ID bores, but it affects sound too much right now.
Sample picture below.
10018102.jpg
 
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