Home-Made IEMs
Oct 19, 2017 at 11:21 AM Post #6,991 of 15,989
Hello!
Today I tried Detax Duglasil Express (Crystal clear cast silicone):
UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_55b.jpg UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_55c.jpg UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_55f.jpg UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_560.jpg
First of all, it really freezes in 5 minutes, but it has a lot of bubbles and cracks, I used a special gun and mixing canulas (the manufacturer wrote that the pressure pot not need if use gun). Second, it very expensive, one cartridge is enough for only one impression!
If you use silicone, you need to use pressure pot, even if you have a special tool like mine. So I decided to continue using agar ....
 
Oct 20, 2017 at 5:36 AM Post #6,996 of 15,989
Universal housings created by me. Nozzles have a cutter on tips. It wasn't easy, the whole design took me a lot of thinking. :beyersmile:

They look awesome! I need a set like that which would allow me to change out different configurations in order to test the sound.. Any other ideas for testing different configurations before committing to them?

I still don't know how you guys achieve that crystal clear look. Mine are clear but have what looks like an uneven runny water type look. Did you use the gelatin method?
 
Oct 20, 2017 at 7:24 PM Post #6,998 of 15,989
Did you use the gelatin method?

My only right choice - agar :beyersmile: Try polishing. It is easier than lack. It simply works. Try to test the configurations in existing headset housings. I used Westone 4, Ue900, Ue700, Ue600 without any problems.

cutout area

Dreve
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I also wanted to show a piece of my work while creating horn design. They are unfinished yet. I have a little strange philosophy when working on the IEMs. I prefer to think and test interesting things, rather than pack a few drivers into shells. I am interested in acoustic design and possibilities of achieving maximum (sometimes surprising results) from simple configurations.

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Oct 20, 2017 at 8:00 PM Post #6,999 of 15,989
They look awesome! I need a set like that which would allow me to change out different configurations in order to test the sound.. Any other ideas for testing different configurations before committing to them?

I still don't know how you guys achieve that crystal clear look. Mine are clear but have what looks like an uneven runny water type look. Did you use the gelatin method?
Yes, you have to use gelatin to fully cure the shell without tackiness. Fully Immerse the shell In glycerin for at least 8 min under uv light. After rinse with etylic or rubbing alcohol.
 
Oct 20, 2017 at 8:19 PM Post #7,000 of 15,989
special cutout for hold on tips in place

Thank you for the picture. I thought that is what you meant. I am amazed that you can create that in a "hobby" situation. It's simply awesome.

1. How did you create the mold to do that? Did you hand carve one?

I have a little strange philosophy when working on the IEMs. I prefer to think and test interesting things, rather than pack a few drivers into shells. I am interested in acoustic design and possibilities of achieving maximum (sometimes surprising results) from simple configurations.

2. I think it's awesome that all the experts on here are really stretching the design possibilities. Well done. You never know what great designs you might come up with by a bit of lateral thinking & experimentation.

Try to test the configurations in existing headset housings. I used Westone 4, Ue900, Ue700, Ue600 without any problems.

3. What do you mean by this? Do you mean that you use the same drivers or same location of drivers in the shell?
 
Oct 20, 2017 at 8:58 PM Post #7,001 of 15,989
Package from Westone arrived today. Guess who’s back??

After a couple years perusing other interests, I’m committed to finishing my 6-driver in the next couple months.

The shell quality I’ve seen being posed is fantastic. I’m very excited to have new 2 builds on my plate.
 
Oct 21, 2017 at 1:19 AM Post #7,003 of 15,989
My only right choice - agar :beyersmile: Try polishing. It is easier than lack. It simply works. Try to test the configurations in existing headset housings. I used Westone 4, Ue900, Ue700, Ue600 without any problems.



I also wanted to show a piece of my work while creating horn design. They are unfinished yet. I have a little strange philosophy when working on the IEMs. I prefer to think and test interesting things, rather than pack a few drivers into shells. I am interested in acoustic design and possibilities of achieving maximum (sometimes surprising results) from simple configurations.




I can polish the outside but it seems to be the inside. It looks very clear when I pull it out of the glycerin but once I clean with alcohol, it turns foggy looking. I lack it, inside and out because of the foggy look, then it has that runny water look. It's very clear, but not an even looking clear like looking through a piece of glass. It's more like a piece of plexiglass that has been heated and bent. It seems to be caused by the lack. It doesn't seem to matter if I leave the lack sit to "flow" and even out or not. I don't know how else to get rid of the foggy look on the inside. Do you use some type of small dremal bit to polish that? It would seem very difficult to get way down by the output port. Or, am I doing something wrong? I cure, to obtain desired thickness, pour out, let sit upside down about a minute, cure 1 min upside down, pull from mold, place fully in glycerin and cure 1 minute, place fully in alcohol and shake and clean for about 30 sec, remove and clean with alcohol and Q-Tip. At this stage, it is Not tacky but looks foggy once it's dry.

That horn looks Great! Has it been proven to help and if so, at any particular frequency range?


Yes, you have to use gelatin to fully cure the shell without tackiness. Fully Immerse the shell In glycerin for at least 8 min under uv light. After rinse with etylic or rubbing alcohol.

I'm not using gelatin, I'm using the ballistics gel that is very clear. It comes out tacky but I thought that was normal until the glycerin cure? Correct? Also, I'm not doing 8 minutes of glycerin, I thought too much UV would cause shell to start yellowing? Correct?


Thanks guys!
 
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Oct 21, 2017 at 5:13 AM Post #7,004 of 15,989
Decided to add a flourcent 365nm bulb to my franken-oven. It actually works beautifully! Only threw a breaker twice!
why adding another bulb when you are able to cure transparent shells in 15sec?
also do you use this bulb in conjunction with the rest or do you use it separately?

Last question. I see you have in the background a UV "gun" used by dentists. does it cure the resin for you? is it fast? do you know the wavelength output?
 
Oct 21, 2017 at 6:23 AM Post #7,005 of 15,989
I can polish the outside but it seems to be the inside. It looks very clear when I pull it out of the glycerin but once I clean with alcohol, it turns foggy looking. I lack it, inside and out because of the foggy look, then it has that runny water look. It's very clear, but not an even looking clear like looking through a piece of glass. It's more like a piece of plexiglass that has been heated and bent. It seems to be caused by the lack. It doesn't seem to matter if I leave the lack sit to "flow" and even out or not. I don't know how else to get rid of the foggy look on the inside. Do you use some type of small dremal bit to polish that? It would seem very difficult to get way down by the output port. Or, am I doing something wrong? I cure, to obtain desired thickness, pour out, let sit upside down about a minute, cure 1 min upside down, pull from mold, place fully in glycerin and cure 1 minute, place fully in alcohol and shake and clean for about 30 sec, remove and clean with alcohol and Q-Tip. At this stage, it is Not tacky but looks foggy once it's dry.

That horn looks Great! Has it been proven to help and if so, at any particular frequency range?




I'm not using gelatin, I'm using the ballistics gel that is very clear. It comes out tacky but I thought that was normal until the glycerin cure? Correct? Also, I'm not doing 8 minutes of glycerin, I thought too much UV would cause shell to start yellowing? Correct?


Thanks guys!
The yellowing depends on what type of acrylic you’re using. I use fotoplast by dreve and 8 min of uv cure won’t make my shells yellow.

Do not clean the shell after the first cure, put it directly sliding it from the mold to a trasparent cup full of glycerin. Make shure that the shell fills with glycerin and stays immersed all the time. Try to avoid small bubbles forming around the shell cause if so they will remain after the cure.
 
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