Home-Made IEMs
Jan 12, 2017 at 4:25 PM Post #5,806 of 15,989


I'm about to place an order from Plastics1 for some cables and connectors. Has anyone used their mmcx connectors before? I'm new to this, but I haven't seen any with just 1 terminal coming off. Where's the positive and negative? Where do you guys get your mmcx connectors?


I have purchased cables from them, it was $170 for 10 cables. I still have 7 left.

MMCX - center is always positive, so the post protruding out is positive. Negative can go on any of the corners/casing.
 
Jan 12, 2017 at 9:30 PM Post #5,807 of 15,989


Hey guys! Picked this stuff up at lowes. Think this would work for soldering armatures? Or should I go with something else?


I haven't done much soldering so take my advice with a grain of salt. From what I've read, the best solder, especially for electronics is 63/37 tin/lead solder. As long as you wash your hands after using it you should be fine. That ratio of lead to tin has the lowest melting point, and the quickest hardening time. Both of these things go make soldering a lot easier. What iron do you have? The solder you bought is a lead free solder and it has a fair bit higher melting point. It might work, but it won't be the easiest to use. Hopefully someone more experienced can add their own two cents as well. I hope this helps!
 
Jan 13, 2017 at 12:14 AM Post #5,808 of 15,989
Drivers GQ - $62 for the pair
MMCX Female Connector - $0.45
eStron wire (1) 10mm Red and (1) 10mm Green - $0.18
Fotoplast less than 1.2ml - $0.32
Faceplate - approx $.02
Tips - $0.85
Motion Cable 62" -$17
Hard Case - $11

Total material invested to make complete package - $91.82

I would include:
Crystal Motion Cable
Tips - S L XL
Hard Case



if I sold them for $220 that would be a nice little $128.18 profit. It is realistic to profit off DIY!!

That looks like a good deal. But realistically the profit is less, you should include your time & inventory cost. 220 is nice deal, hope you can compete with Chinese DIY guys.
 
Jan 14, 2017 at 6:44 AM Post #5,810 of 15,989
Yeah and here is also the taxes if you must to pay if you have an enterprise and stuff. Need to have attention on this question to not sell too much of this and have a control or something :) but good luck with this, hope it will work out well as those are some damn gorgeous iems!
 
Jan 14, 2017 at 7:32 PM Post #5,811 of 15,989
Ok im thinking about changing my uv curing setup. I tried to do it in the normal horizontal position with the uv nail drier, then vertically like some japanese dude from youtube did. Even with 6min og curing time in both cases it gives me some flobby halfshells... will try maybe to put the drier upside down with some plexi plate and position the investment on it. Meanwhile i ordered a uv led strip from ali to eventually make the tube curing design i saw somewhere here... damn im think im not that good with this stuff as i managed to make better shells with pavelka rather than with fotoplast.
 
Jan 14, 2017 at 10:06 PM Post #5,812 of 15,989
Ok im thinking about changing my uv curing setup. I tried to do it in the normal horizontal position with the uv nail drier, then vertically like some japanese dude from youtube did. Even with 6min og curing time in both cases it gives me some flobby halfshells... will try maybe to put the drier upside down with some plexi plate and position the investment on it. Meanwhile i ordered a uv led strip from ali to eventually make the tube curing design i saw somewhere here... damn im think im not that good with this stuff as i managed to make better shells with pavelka rather than with fotoplast.

 
For clarification, you are curing Fotoplast for 6 minutes and you are not getting a full cure?
 
I have a uv nail dryer that I use to cure Fotoplast, and I get 1.5-2mm thick shells in 45-60 seconds. In 2-3 minutes I get a solid piece of acrylic. I am using the dryer in its normal horizontal position, placed on top of a mirror (to help even the dispersal of light top to bottom and around), and place a small metal piece over top of the mold so the open part of the mold at the top does not harden.
 
How big/thick is your mold? Depending on the thickness it may not be getting enough light to cure it in a timely manner. Do you have pictures?
 
Jan 14, 2017 at 11:37 PM Post #5,813 of 15,989
How good is the GK driver? Is there any iem using this driver? 
smile.gif

 
Jan 15, 2017 at 4:05 AM Post #5,814 of 15,989
   
For clarification, you are curing Fotoplast for 6 minutes and you are not getting a full cure?
 
I have a uv nail dryer that I use to cure Fotoplast, and I get 1.5-2mm thick shells in 45-60 seconds. In 2-3 minutes I get a solid piece of acrylic. I am using the dryer in its normal horizontal position, placed on top of a mirror (to help even the dispersal of light top to bottom and around), and place a small metal piece over top of the mold so the open part of the mold at the top does not harden.
 
How big/thick is your mold? Depending on the thickness it may not be getting enough light to cure it in a timely manner. Do you have pictures?

Hello,
 
Thank you four your input,
 
I have standard molds from soundlink, with 5cm diameter. For the investment I did the gelatine recepy from Shiloh (still waiting for my nice fit agar from soundlink...), in result I had a stiff resistant investment with a strong yellow tint. When I try to dry it the first time I put an opaque plate on the investment like you said.
 
I guess it might be the mirror issue, but shouldnt I in that case use the turning plate? Will definetely try it out.
 
Here some old pics
 
 
  How good is the GK driver? Is there any iem using this driver? 
smile.gif

I using it in my only pair of successful ciems right now and prefer it to my AKG k240s, definetely not the analytic type of sound in my opinion but very pleasant with strong but not overwhelming bass and nice high spectrum extention. Like the soundstage, quite wide in my opinion, separation seems good. I'm not an audiophile tho, just someone who appreciate a good detail in music :)
 
Jan 15, 2017 at 9:51 AM Post #5,816 of 15,989
Hello,

Thank you four your input,

I have standard molds from soundlink, with 5cm diameter. For the investment I did the gelatine recepy from Shiloh (still waiting for my nice fit agar from soundlink...), in result I had a stiff resistant investment with a strong yellow tint. When I try to dry it the first time I put an opaque plate on the investment like you said.

I guess it might be the mirror issue, but shouldnt I in that case use the turning plate? Will definetely try it out.

Here some old pics
 




I using it in my only pair of successful ciems right now and prefer it to my AKG k240s, definetely not the analytic type of sound in my opinion but very pleasant with strong but not overwhelming bass and nice high spectrum extention. Like the soundstage, quite wide in my opinion, separation seems good. I'm not an audiophile tho, just someone who appreciate a good detail in music :)


In the set up in your picture you have way too much UV light escaping and not enough direct exposure. And if you lay your nail dryer down the correct way and put foil underneath it as a reflective surface and then folded up over the open and you do not need to rotate your investments in a circle.

So basically put a piece of foil down put your investment on there put your investments UV blocker on top lay nail dryer down over top of it fold the foil up and you should be able to get really great results with that type a UV light in 2 to 3 minutes.

Here is how I used the nail dryer before getting the Dreve unit. I would leave extra foil coming out from the bottom and fold it to cover the openeing of the nail dryer. Your investments look great.

 
Jan 15, 2017 at 11:47 AM Post #5,817 of 15,989
In the set up in your picture you have way too much UV light escaping and not enough direct exposure. And if you lay your nail dryer down the correct way and put foil underneath it as a reflective surface and then folded up over the open and you do not need to rotate your investments in a circle.

So basically put a piece of foil down put your investment on there put your investments UV blocker on top lay nail dryer down over top of it fold the foil up and you should be able to get really great results with that type a UV light in 2 to 3 minutes.

Here is how I used the nail dryer before getting the Dreve unit. I would leave extra foil coming out from the bottom and fold it to cover the openeing of the nail dryer. Your investments look great.


 
For consistency sake, in addition to the mirrored bottom, I cover the front opening with a reflective piece as well. I do not know if it makes a difference, I just figured better to be thorough than not.
 
Jan 15, 2017 at 3:11 PM Post #5,818 of 15,989
Thank you guys, I will definetely do this while waiting the led strip. I thought it might be a very nice consistent little drying chamber like I saw in some post few pages before. Purchased the 1m of leds already in kit with 12v power. This + 100mm PVC pipe + rotating mirrored bottom hope would make a difference.
 
Today I tried to trim my investment to make it a little smaller and put a little mirror under while curing. 2 minutes to be sure, aaaand nothing like always. I guess I'll wait for my agar and led strip to update my "technique" haha.
 
Anyways, thank you kind fellas for your input and help, really appreciate this! :)
 

 

 
Jan 17, 2017 at 10:26 AM Post #5,819 of 15,989
Guys, do you get watery investments when using gelatin? Does watery investment give issues with curing after wiping it dry?

I have only tried using water-based agar investments and it did get kind of watery(may be improved using different recipe?), if you leave the water in there your shell will end up missing that portion where the water stays, haven't tried wiping it since I wanted to avoid getting dust in the investment. 
 

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