[MuZo2]

Egger is gel like consistency and small quantity comes in tube, so don't think it needs shaking.

 

[sanekn]

I'm using the nice-fit one, but will try to shake it well 1hr before use next time!

 

[jbr1971]

Hi all,

As I am getting prepared for my first foray into using resistors and capacitors for tuning, I wanted to double check something with regard to using measurement equipment.

I do not have the most accurate setup out there, but it definitely helps with getting things in the right ballpark.

Previously I have wired the same configuration to both left and right sides, even though I only measured 1 side. My reasoning was that maybe only having the load on one side could affect impedances and measured output (I have no scientific backing for it, just my weird logic). Plus it was good practice for soldering.

Am I completely off base with this reasoning? I would like to minimize the amount of soldering with such small components this time.

Thanks, and happy holidays!

 

[Furco]

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to all you creative audiophiles! You guys keep pushing the boundaries of what's possible and I find it both amazing and inspiring. I need to clean off my desk and contribute again.

 

[ziixtreme]

I am on my journey to make a CIEM. But I will make some universal shell 1st. I've successfully made a 3 driver combo with my own crossover setup and fit it into a Shure SE535 shell. I've used Sonion 33AJ007i/9 with TF10 tweeter (should be 2389 correct me if I am wrong). This combo tuned right will give out a very very nice sound. The only let down is the bass doesn't go low enough and the highs are a bit too electronic, not realistic enough. The mids on the 33AJ07i/9 are awesome. I will try another combo and see how it goes. The 33AJ007i/9 is a very very good dual driver. 

 

[sanekn]

Hello guys,
 
I have spent all day (vacation alone just today) to make investments out of the gelatine and it's a success, strong and stiff, bubble free if extra care added. It's the silohsjustice's recepy on the 315 page. The investment is so tight that the resin cures residue-free on it's exterior which is nice.
 
At the other hand, damn Nice-Fit just dont want to cure properly, every time I get those holes in the interior part of the shell. Maybe my setup is not good enough I dont know, Will wait for my fotoplast now I guess... 
 
Here some photos.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Anyways, Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all of you and your families, hope the 2017 will be more succesfull and I could make some professional grade stuff and quit my job (half joke)

 

[ForceMajeure]

  Hello guys,
 
I have spent all day (vacation alone just today) to make investments out of the gelatine and it's a success, strong and stiff, bubble free if extra care added. It's the silohsjustice's recepy on the 315 page. The investment is so tight that the resin cures residue-free on it's exterior which is nice.
 

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

 
Here some photos.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Anyways, Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all of you and your families, hope the 2017 will be more succesfull and I could make some professional grade stuff and quit my job (half joke)

 

Are you using the nail lamp horizontally with its mirror base for the primary cure?
 
Using Egger resin I have great results doing the following for transparent shells: black cap covered investment cure for 1:15 min, empty excess resin, another cure for 30-60sec with investments upside down. then I fill the empty shells with glycerin and cure for another ~10min.
 
During the whole process I use the UV lamp horizontally with its base (I removed the blue layer from that came with the base, now it's mirror like only) and a piece of foil to cover the opening.
 
It's a trial and error thing every lamp and resin will have slightly different curing time. For my first trials I had the same shell "holes" as you, first curing time wasn't long enough... 
 
 
 

Hi all,

As I am getting prepared for my first foray into using resistors and capacitors for tuning, I wanted to double check something with regard to using measurement equipment.

I do not have the most accurate setup out there, but it definitely helps with getting things in the right ballpark.

Previously I have wired the same configuration to both left and right sides, even though I only measured 1 side. My reasoning was that maybe only having the load on one side could affect impedances and measured output (I have no scientific backing for it, just my weird logic). Plus it was good practice for soldering.

Am I completely off base with this reasoning? I would like to minimize the amount of soldering with such small components this time.

Thanks, and happy holidays!

 
If I understand correctly you ask if soldering only the left or the right piece without the other gives a different frequency response/ behavior than soldering the whole earphone (L and R) together?
 
As far as I am aware no. you should regard the L and R as two different pieces, each one gets its own signal. 

  I am on my journey to make a CIEM. But I will make some universal shell 1st. I've successfully made a 3 driver combo with my own crossover setup and fit it into a Shure SE535 shell. I've used Sonion 33AJ007i/9 with TF10 tweeter (should be 2389 correct me if I am wrong). This combo tuned right will give out a very very nice sound. The only let down is the bass doesn't go low enough and the highs are a bit too electronic, not realistic enough. The mids on the 33AJ07i/9 are awesome. I will try another combo and see how it goes. The 33AJ007i/9 is a very very good dual driver. 

 
Welcome, keep us informed for you next trials, I also like the 33AJ07i/9 for its mids. Have you soldered the 2389 half coil (center tap) or regular?

 

[ziixtreme]

I am using half coil centertap. What is the difference between using half coil and regular? 

 

[ForceMajeure]

  I am using half coil centertap. What is the difference between using half coil and regular? 

 
Half coil will give less resistance to the driver and because the impedance curve is not linear and impedance gets higher as frequency goes up on that driver, overall impedance will be lower thus more juice to the driver and upper frequencies. resulting in a few more decibels for the treble.
 
You own the TF10? 

 

[ziixtreme]

Half coil will give less resistance to the driver and because the impedance curve is not linear and impedance gets higher as frequency goes up on that driver, overall impedance will be lower thus more juice to the driver and upper frequencies. resulting in a few more decibels for the treble.

You own the TF10? 

Yes I own the TF10. I had it reshell into the Shure SE535 with new Sonion 33AJ007i/9. One side of the original UE driver is gone. Another question, if I wire up the 33AJ007i/9 parrallel instead of series do I get improved bass response? Parrallel gives same amount of voltage to the drivers whereas series split voltage between the 2 drivers.

 

[ForceMajeure]

Theoretically yes, you should get better bass response.
 
Why not use the original crossover for the TF10 though? 

 

[ziixtreme]

Theoretically yes, you should get better bass response.


Why not use the original crossover for the TF10 though? 

Tune for better mids. TF10 mids are a bit recessed

 

[ForceMajeure]

If I am not mistaken the TF10 have a low pass filter of 20ohm and 3.3uf on the 33 driver and a 1.5uf on the half coil 2389 right?

 

[ziixtreme]

If I am not mistaken the TF10 have a low pass filter of 20ohm and 3.3uf on the 33 driver and a 1.5uf on the half coil 2389 right?

That is correct. And the 33 is wired up series. I changed the low pass 10ohm with 4.7uF better mids. I tried meddle with the 2389, but it seems like 1.5uF is the best high pass. The bass is lackluster on the lowest end. Well I think for BA that is expected. The 2389 performs very well on the highs, but it sounded a bit too metallic. I should give SWFK-31736 a try.

 

[ForceMajeure]

I don't think the original crossover is wired in series though.
I don't have a TF10 to check it but I think the low pass filtered 33xx driver and the high passed filtered 2389 are wired in parallel. It might look in series when looking on the pcb but if I remember correctly the pcb have connections on both sides bypassing some elements, also capacitors are upside down on it... Again I am not 100% sure, try to wire it in parallel and see how it goes.
 
One thing to remember is that if the low pass filter used is like the one I stated a few posts up, then the resistor is in series to the 33xx driver and the capacitor is in parallel to the same driver.
All that need to be wired in parallel to the high pass filtered  2389 (half coil).