Home-Made IEMs
Oct 11, 2016 at 4:26 AM Post #5,386 of 15,989
  Yes, just the standard RC crossover integrated with the Knowles GK-31732.  I shortened the tubes by 3mm & now run the CI undamped and there is a small improvement, it sounds pretty flat to 40Hz and I might have to settle for that.  Still, I wonder how to achieve the bass extension that appears to be possible.  Hard to measure these low frequencies without a lot of kit but this GK isn't subjectively as good as my old SE530 in that regard.  From the mid-bass up, the sound is exquisite though.


I think you may have a leak on the driver side - check if the tubing is fully glued on to the driver. You can seal the tubing by adding some UV material around it and the drivers.
 
Oct 11, 2016 at 4:33 AM Post #5,387 of 15,989
so please keep me informed about bass extension
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Oct 11, 2016 at 5:12 AM Post #5,388 of 15,989
 
I think you may have a leak on the driver side - check if the tubing is fully glued on to the driver. You can seal the tubing by adding some UV material around it and the drivers.

Thanks. Yes, I've done that because it's now much easier with the latest Knowles GK (Digi-Key) to make a sub-assembly of drivers with tubes fully cured to go in the shell.  I found the latest GK now has a spacer between the CI and the TWFK to increase the center-to-center of the 'spouts' so that old problem of getting the tubes secure is solved.  I've checked that the assembly doesn't break by disassembling & re-assembling the drivers with tubes in the shell a few times.  I didn't use cyanoacrylate at all.  Quite a mystery.
Do these BA drivers 'burn-in' at all?
 
Oct 11, 2016 at 6:05 AM Post #5,389 of 15,989
The GK you got should not have any problem or need "burnin"...
Few possibilities either you don't have a full seal with your shell, tubes are not placed correctly /leaks, a wire is broken from one of the drivers to the crossover plates in the back, bad soldering making contact with elements on the crossover plate. 
 
I would highly suggest to check the assembly before securing it in the shell and measure it before (if you have the tools).
 
try to use one damper and one tube connecting both spouts. You might have a better sound. I remember messing with it and had better result with one damper only (maybe green I don't remember).
 
Regarding the Nicefit resin, curing times and handling are the same as any professional fotoplast (Egger, Dreve). It is made by Detax, they make the nice-fit line for chinese it seems...
 
Oct 12, 2016 at 10:24 PM Post #5,391 of 15,989
Thanks for all the ideas & support on my bass extension problem.  This is my first working build and it's clear my impressions are not good enough because improving the fit with coats of resin in some areas gained me another 10Hz.  OK, I'm still not flat to 25Hz but it's plenty good enough the acoustic/jazz I listen to, for a first effort.
There is a LOT of difference between a decent ear seal and an excellent ear seal.  You must get that seal perfect to have the extension.
Anyhow, for the record, Knowles GK-31732 with standard x-over; 17mm tubes; CI undamped; TWFK white damper.  Sounds better than anything in my profile through the Smyth A8 except possibly the SR-009/BHSE.  Astonishing, for what it cost.
Now to perfect the shells and get making more....
 
Oct 13, 2016 at 12:19 AM Post #5,392 of 15,989
  Thanks for all the ideas & support on my bass extension problem.  This is my first working build and it's clear my impressions are not good enough because improving the fit with coats of resin in some areas gained me another 10Hz.  OK, I'm still not flat to 25Hz but it's plenty good enough the acoustic/jazz I listen to, for a first effort.
There is a LOT of difference between a decent ear seal and an excellent ear seal.  You must get that seal perfect to have the extension.
Anyhow, for the record, Knowles GK-31732 with standard x-over; 17mm tubes; CI undamped; TWFK white damper.  Sounds better than anything in my profile through the Smyth A8 except possibly the SR-009/BHSE.  Astonishing, for what it cost.
Now to perfect the shells and get making more....

 
I am glad you are getting better results with the seal improvements.
 
You might want to redo your impressions. When I was almost done shaping mine I would put mine in my ears after some significant shaping to make sure I still achieved a good seal. That way when I made my molds I had confidence that the shells would seal properly. It has worked out well so far.
 
Having a good mold will definitely save time for you in the long run if you plan to make multiple sets.
 
Oct 13, 2016 at 11:36 AM Post #5,393 of 15,989
Hey Guys!  I have a friend with the Dunu DN-1000.  The left earpiece has gone silent and I suggested adding a MMCX connector with new cable.  Question: has anyone cracked one of these (or similar) open?  I have some AStrotec AX-35's that I did the same thing to and worked beautifully, but I can't figure out how to open these without damaging them.  Any ideas?
 
Oct 13, 2016 at 12:29 PM Post #5,394 of 15,989
I think they open from the inside.not the outside. you can see in that pic the inner circle on the piece that have the nozzle facing up (not where the mesh is).

 
heat that area with an hairdryer/heatgun grab the nozzle with some TP (to not damage it) over it with a pliers and pull gently.
 

 
Oct 14, 2016 at 9:42 AM Post #5,395 of 15,989
  I think they open from the inside.not the outside. you can see in that pic the inner circle on the piece that have the nozzle facing up (not where the mesh is).

 
heat that area with an hairdryer/heatgun grab the nozzle with some TP (to not damage it) over it with a pliers and pull gently.
 

Thank You, Force!  That worked beautifully!!!  Much appreciated!  For anyone wondering, it appears they are using a 10ohm resistor on the DD and a 2.2uf cap on the TWFK.  I got a bump in LF after I reinstalled it.  Not sure why, but I'm thinking the extra volume taken up by the MMCX connector and solder caused it.  I'll post pics later.  
 
Thanks again!
 
Oct 16, 2016 at 6:21 PM Post #5,397 of 15,989
Hi everyone,
 
Here's a few photos of my first set of impressions. What do you think? These are my first set, I made them with some assistance and I think they turned out well so far. Anyway, I'm about to start trimming and sculpting them and I wanted to get any advice or suggestions some of you who have trimmed your own and see what advice you have. Since I don't have the permissions to post images yet, I'll include a link to my Imgur album I set up. Thanks! 
 
https://imgur.com/a/oLE26
 
Oct 16, 2016 at 10:24 PM Post #5,398 of 15,989
  Hi everyone,
 
Here's a few photos of my first set of impressions. What do you think? These are my first set, I made them with some assistance and I think they turned out well so far. Anyway, I'm about to start trimming and sculpting them and I wanted to get any advice or suggestions some of you who have trimmed your own and see what advice you have. Since I don't have the permissions to post images yet, I'll include a link to my Imgur album I set up. Thanks! 
 
https://imgur.com/a/oLE26

 
From your pictures it looks like you have a good set of impressions.
 
When I was shaping my impressions I used a Dremel with a fairly smooth grinding stone, and used light pressure. The material comes off fairly easy, and you can take too much off very quickly with too much pressure.
 
After the main cuts and the first shaping pass clearing out the really rough spots, I started putting the impressions back in my ears after every few changes to make sure there was still a good seal, and that they were evenly sized/shaped for each ear. It helped a lot with the final product.
 
If you are going to dip your impressions with wax for your mold it will help a lot with any holes/pores that are still visible after shaping. If you are not going to use wax, make sure to smooth out all of the holes/pores as they will set in your impression and cause issues with your shells.
 
Good luck. Have fun.
 

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