Home-Made IEMs
Aug 18, 2016 at 4:15 AM Post #5,176 of 16,107
 
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dangerous: wife
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- Wife: LISTEN to me when I'm talking to you. You've spent WHAT to fool around with your soldering iron and plug tiny pieces of plastic into your ears?!?
 
- Me: [Pulls out IEMs] Sorry dear?
 
*THWACK!*
 
Aug 18, 2016 at 2:39 PM Post #5,180 of 16,107
Love you people. Thank you so much!

Last question if you dont mind - what type of caps / resistors i need to use, i can see on mouser they have different voltages and res have wattage rates... (Yeah, i really jon snowing on electronics...)
 
Aug 18, 2016 at 3:02 PM Post #5,181 of 16,107
Love you people. Thank you so much!

Last question if you dont mind - what type of caps / resistors i need to use, i can see on mouser they have different voltages and res have wattage rates... (Yeah, i really jon snowing on electronics...)


I have been using Tantalum Capacitors 22uf 6.3v 10% size 1210 like these:



I use size 0805 smd resistors, they are small but after working with them you get used to it. I like them this small so I can work crossovers into smaller shells, I simply coat the resistors/capacitors with super glue once soldered so they do not short anything should they come into contact with the driver or another cap/res.
 
Aug 18, 2016 at 4:00 PM Post #5,183 of 16,107
Man thank you so much! :) Ive just purchased everything on ebay because i just cant pay mousers 20€ shipping for 4 microscopic cheap components... Will se if it works out well!

The last question tho, i'm sure its been told already somewhere here but what type and gauge wire should be used between electronic components? ive used some wire i had on my hands but it was quite stiff. Any thoughts?
 
Aug 18, 2016 at 8:36 PM Post #5,185 of 16,107
The last question tho, i'm sure its been told already somewhere here but what type and gauge wire should be used between electronic components? ive used some wire i had on my hands but it was quite stiff. Any thoughts?[/quote]

When started out I would strip the wire from cheap in ear headphones, this would last a while like a $5 pair. I think the cable I use is like 50micron litz wire. It's hard to use gauges wire but you could get away with a 30awg hook up wire. (Number goes up smaller the thickness of wire)
 
Aug 19, 2016 at 1:01 PM Post #5,187 of 16,107
Man thank you so much!
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Ive just purchased everything on ebay because i just cant pay mousers 20€ shipping for 4 microscopic cheap components... Will se if it works out well!

The last question tho, i'm sure its been told already somewhere here but what type and gauge wire should be used between electronic components? ive used some wire i had on my hands but it was quite stiff. Any thoughts?

I just got some of this stuff in and it works beautifully!  
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/T028BL-10m-BLACK-0-28mm-Teflon-Micro-Litz-Wire-Solder-High-temperature-10m-1pcs-/191942042563?hash=item2cb0a323c3:g:R9UAAOSwwpdW6jNg
 
And the price is right!!!
 
Aug 20, 2016 at 2:28 AM Post #5,190 of 16,107
   
Thanks Tulku!  The only reason I was wiring in series is because I was following the Sonion description.  Your wiring makes more sense to me.  Have you made this design?  If so, how did it sound?  What tubing/dampers did you use?  Thanks again!!!

You're right!
3800 connected in series  better to 1723.
Due to impedance matching...
 
In Angie is 3800  wired in parallel ...
But there is a similar impedance of 2800, other than 1723.

 

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