[Shilohsjustice]

Is there any tricks to getting a uniform coat of wax on the impression? I have tried heating the wax to different temperatures but some parts just hold the wax better and result in a thicker coat.  

Make sure your impression is facing up, you will need a hooked pick so you can keep your impression with canal up. Try and dip as level as possible. I submerge quickly then slower when pulling it out at a nice smooth pace.

I posted a video several pages back which will give you a better view. If it appears that your wax is thick in areas you will likely need to turn the heat up just a bit. Keep at it, it took me several impressions to find a consistent result. Temperature is definitely a big factor, I posted some tricks in the same tutorial the video is in.

 

[dustdevil]

Make sure your impression is facing up, you will need a hooked pick so you can keep your impression with canal up. Try and dip as level as possible. I submerge quickly then slower when pulling it out at a nice smooth pace.

I posted a video several pages back which will give you a better view. If it appears that your wax is thick in areas you will likely need to turn the heat up just a bit. Keep at it, it took me several impressions to find a consistent result. Temperature is definitely a big factor, I posted some tricks in the same tutorial the video is in.

Thanks I guess I'll have to try doing the process with the canal pointing up.

 

[Shilohsjustice]

Does anyone know how long the tubing would be to replicate the westone 3s/30?


I currently have a knowles gk and I am tinkering with the length and dampers.

The crossover is what is shaping the westone 3 and um pro 30, they are using a more complicated crossover, 2 resistors and 2 capacitors. The GK has 1 resistor and 1 capacitor. All three with a twfk internally crossed over.

I've had great results using a red damper on the CL driver and a green on the TWFK.

There are a few big IEM companies who use the GK as it is with just damping it, so very good choice!

I do agree the length of tubing plays a big part in the overall sound stage and response, however each persons ears are very different with regard to length of ear canal, composition, and consistency of ear impressions. I would say a tube length of 10mm could sound different to me than you, what I would focus on more would be ensuring a great seal and consistency in impressions from the right side to the left. Custom molded In-ear monitors do have a different dynamic then universals.

Have you made your shells and tried the GK's out yet?? If you haven't you may find it very satisfying the way it is.

 

[Shilohsjustice]

Thanks I guess I'll have to try doing the process with the canal pointing up.

Here is the video link to how I do my wax dip:
https://youtu.be/qeeW7ZFLWIY

 

[Shilohsjustice]

Whipped up some nice lime green shells for the 6 driver configuration;

 

[kaywee23]

Has anyone tried using the biopor ab to make silicone earpiece? I found a shop selling it on taobao but im not very sure of how to use it..... is it difficult and messy to use? http://tmqd.me/h.ZXJcge?cv=AAFwzvVQ&sm=d65864

 

[ForceMajeure]

Whipped up some nice lime green shells for the 6 driver configuration;

Sexy! so clear and bubble free. What did you use to make the coloring?
 
Also I assume this one is polished and  buffed  as you do them, with blue compound for the final stage.

 

[ForceMajeure]

Has anyone tried using the biopor ab to make silicone earpiece? I found a shop selling it on taobao but im not very sure of how to use it..... is it difficult and messy to use? http://tmqd.me/h.ZXJcge?cv=AAFwzvVQ&sm=d65864

There is this video, doesn't look to messy.
This vid also contain the dipping process of the ear impression in wax. (dustdevil)

 

[Shilohsjustice]

Sexy! so clear and bubble free. What did you use to make the coloring?

Also I assume this one is polished and  buffed  as you do them, with blue compound for the final stage.

Thanks!!! At the advice of @Briancortez2112 I used acrylic ink, amazing!!! It mixes extremely well in Dreve Fotoplast and I was absolutely shocked how well it did. I've tried several of the colors and they all seem to mix and color extremely well!!

This is the brand and color combo I bought:


Yes, these are just buffed/polished no lak on them. I am planning to do a graphic on this set so they will likely end up with a coat in the end.

 

[ForceMajeure]

How long do the IEMS you buffed stay clear?
The few tries I done so far, I saw that sometimes if I get cheap on the laquing process and don't use enough they get opaque from tiny scratches quite fast.

 

[Shilohsjustice]

How long do the IEMS you buffed stay clear?
The few tries I done so far, I saw that sometimes if I get cheap on the laquing process and don't use enough they get opaque from tiny scratches quite fast.

I haven't had any discolor as of yet. I have a clear set I use every day that are still crystal clear. The lacquer is affected by UV light, which is why if you leave it exposed for too long it can haze or turn yellow. With that said I can confidently say that natural sunlight which emits UV rays can also affect shells coated in lacquer. Someone who leaves their IEM's by a window on a desk or on the passenger seat of a car could experience yellowing or hazing.

Shells not coated in lacquer seem to be much more resilient to discoloration. On shells that are multicolor you really do not notice yellowing or hazing as much when lacquer has been applied.

Piotrus-g helped me a few months back when he showed me the process I was doing could render better results with some tweaking. I was lacquering my shells and then buffing, Peter pointed out that the lacquer layer really should not be buffed because it could cause damage to the layer. Up until that point I had noticed that a few areas would be hazy, this was because I was in fact damaging the lacquer. On the next shells I made from that point I prepped the shells with the intention of lacquering last and found by spending extra time buffing I was able to eliminate The lacquer layer altogether. Now I usually will use lacquer to build up the Canal should there be a loose fit.

 

[Shilohsjustice]

Also I want to add that there is something called pluming that is a result of fumes from certain adhesives. If you use certain super glues to adhere sound tubes to driver ports or adhere the faceplate once closed and sealed the fumes have no where to escape resulting in hazing. Sometimes it doesn't show up for a few hours or longer.

The super glue I typically use is loctite 495, it has a low plume and dries clear.

 

[piotrus-g]

Piotrus-g helped me a few months back when he showed me the process I was doing could render better results with some tweaking. I was lacquering my shells and then buffing, Peter pointed out that the lacquer layer really should not be buffed because it could cause damage to the layer. Up until that point I had noticed that a few areas would be hazy, this was because I was in fact damaging the lacquer. On the next shells I made from that point I prepped the shells with the intention of lacquering last and found by spending extra time buffing I was able to eliminate The lacquer layer altogether. Now I usually will use lacquer to build up the Canal should there be a loose fit.

Really I did say that? hahaha I can't remember it.
Buffing of lacquer can result in breaks only if you buff for too long - heated wheel will create cracks in lacquer surface. Other than that for DIY purposes correctly applied lacquer is as good as polish, and it seem to be much easier solution for beginners.

 

[MuZo2]

Thanks!!! At the advice of @Briancortez2112 I used acrylic ink, amazing!!! It mixes extremely well in Dreve Fotoplast and I was absolutely shocked how well it did. I've tried several of the colors and they all seem to mix and color extremely well!!

This is the brand and color combo I bought:


Yes, these are just buffed/polished no lak on them. I am planning to do a graphic on this set so they will likely end up with a coat in the end.

Is it skin safe?

 

[Shilohsjustice]

Is it skin safe?

In liquid form the MSDS states it could cause skin irritation wash with soap and water, but does say it is non-toxic.

Fotoplast MSDS states if skin irritation wash with soap and water as well.

It should release nothing chemically once cured.