[MuZo2]

May be 2 mins is too long.

 

[piotrus-g]

Exactamundo!  The lid is a long paint brush, like nail paint.  I cured it for 2 min. tops but haven't really done my homework on curing times for Lacq 3.

Oh, and the best part...NO RESIDUE!  It drys completely.  I wiped it down with alcohol, not sure if that is why I got a little (very little) yellowing or not.  Maybe someone will chime in on this...

read the instruction, lack 3 is fully cured under 1 min. Yellowing can occur to many reasons, but it seems that if your lacquer is new you are overexposing

 

[Shilohsjustice]

Exactamundo!  The lid is a long paint brush, like nail paint.  I cured it for 2 min. tops but haven't really done my homework on curing times for Lacq 3.

Oh, and the best part...NO RESIDUE!  It drys completely.  I wiped it down with alcohol, not sure if that is why I got a little (very little) yellowing or not.  Maybe someone will chime in on this...

The yellowing comes from over exposing the lak3 to uv light. 395nm is the freq it needs to cure I believe and in the instructions it mentions 1min is all the cure time it takes. I'd recommend using one of the automatic spin devices from lightning enterprises, it helps the lak3 flow across the shell evenly and then expose it evenly to the uv light.

 

[Tjgonzo]

The yellowing comes from over exposing the lak3 to uv light. 395nm is the freq it needs to cure I believe and in the instructions it mentions 1min is all the cure time it takes. I'd recommend using one of the automatic spin devices from lightning enterprises, it helps the lak3 flow across the shell evenly and then expose it evenly to the uv light.

Hey Shilohsjustice! I have a UV curing unit that is 365nm, I checked the manual for Lak3 and you are correct, it states 395nm. Do you think that my light being 365nm will make a difference in curing? 

 

[Shilohsjustice]

Hey Shilohsjustice! I have a UV curing unit that is 365nm, I checked the manual for Lak3 and you are correct, it states 395nm. Do you think that my light being 365nm will make a difference in curing?

It should be fine but you may need to adjust your cure time to compensate. Best way is to test a sample cure.

 

[Tjgonzo]

It should be fine but you may need to adjust your cure time to compensate. Best way is to test a sample cure.

Ok, I will do that! Just a quick question, I noticed you have added glitter to some of your shells to the Fotoplast...at what point did you add the glitter and did it affect cure time? Thanks for all your help Shilohsjustice! 

 

[Shilohsjustice]

Ok, I will do that! Just a quick question, I noticed you have added glitter to some of your shells to the Fotoplast...at what point did you add the glitter and did it affect cure time? Thanks for all your help Shilohsjustice! 

I usually create my hollow shell, coat with fotoplast (pour a little in swirl it to coat the walls), then fill with glitter, dump excess, then use a hand held uv light to quickly cure to prevent the glitter from sliding. There are a few different methods I use.

 

[Shilohsjustice]

Here is a fun little 6 driver waiting to be shell'ed up, it's been quieter than usual on here so I figured I'd break the silence:

 

[jbr1971]

Here is a fun little 6 driver waiting to be shell'ed up, it's been quieter than usual on here so I figured I'd break the silence:

 
I have not had a chance to dive into designing my next set yet as I need to learn about crossovers first so I can tune them more precisely this time.
 
Where do you buy your resistors/caps from? Mouser/Digikey/other along with the drivers?
 
Are there any specific sites or docs you used to learn how to build the crossovers, or was it all from this thread?
 
Thanks.

 

[Shilohsjustice]

I have not had a chance to dive into designing my next set yet as I need to learn about crossovers first so I can tune them more precisely this time.

Where do you buy your resistors/caps from? Mouser/Digikey/other along with the drivers?

Are there any specific sites or docs you used to learn how to build the crossovers, or was it all from this thread?

Thanks.

I usually buy from 3 sources; EBay, Amazon, and Mouser. I purchased a Resistor book which has over 8000 resistors which has lasted me a long while with every value you can think of.

Capacitors I typically buy off of eBay in smaller quantities.

Crossovers are tricky and I've relied mostly on tips and tricks posted by the greats here in this forum. Learning what each term and understanding the very basics helped me understand where to use resistors and caps, then playing around with different values to see how it shaped the sound signature. Then I found what I like and have built on that. I'm still fairly green on the crossovers as well so I don't sway to far from what I've come across.

It also helps to buy broken universal iem's off of eBay and take them apart.

Here is an example: I had a pair of westone 3's I picked up off eBay for $40.00 because no sound was coming out. I stripped it and used the drives for my own build but decided to check the values in the circuit and came up with this.

 

[Flukes]

Do you perhaps remember the tubing length the westone 3's used?
If they didn't have tubing, then how far were they to the to the tips?

 

[Shilohsjustice]

There is no tube length, the westone 3 in a universal iem in a small housing.

 

[jbr1971]

  Do you perhaps remember the tubing length the westone 3's used?
If they didn't have tubing, then how far were they to the to the tips?

 
This is the W4r, and I believe the W3 was setup the same way. The drivers port directly into the housing, directly connected to the output tip.
 

 

[Flukes]

Does anyone know how long the tubing would be to replicate the westone 3s/30?

I currently have a knowles gk and I am tinkering with the length and dampers.

 

[dustdevil]

Is there any tricks to getting a uniform coat of wax on the impression? I have tried heating the wax to different temperatures but some parts just hold the wax better and result in a thicker coat.