[CMOS1138]

  You need to solder. Get a 20-25 watt iron with a very smooth tip and get a set of "helping hands" from EBay. Use a flux core electronics solder that melts fast and clean. I almost hate to say this but the electronics solder(specifically) from Radio Shack is really good.
DJ

I Think you are correct, the conductive adhesive didn't work out well in my experiment today, the wire comes away from the contact at the slightest touch before I can even test the driver. If I use flux core solder, do I still need to use separate flux? 

 

[Dan Jarros]

Don't need extra flux. Tin the tips of the wire first. That can be tricky with some headphone wire because there can be a layer of insulation that will burn off before the solder will sick to the copper. Use the helping hands to perfectly set up the connection and solder the wire to the tabs. If you're good you'll melt it together in less that 2 seconds. If you stay in contact much longer than that you will cook your driver.

 

[CMOS1138]

I had my first small success tonight. Following your advice about tinning the wire first and using a helping hands to hold everything in place while I worked, I managed to solder a set of connectors to a Knowles SR series driver (I didn't want to practice on the GK driver) . After I had the wires connected, I added some hot glue as strain relief and than I hot glued about an inch of acoustic tubing over the sound port and plugged that into a Shure olive tip.  I am quite impressed with the sound that $6 driver can produce. I got them just to practice on but now I think I will have to put those into a set of shells, perhaps something ultra low profile that fits entirely in the canal.
 
One thing I learned, I am using far to much wire, I thought about 2 inches of wire would be a good amount but once I fit the driver into one of my prototype shells there is more wire than I know what to do with, I will have to either wind the extra wire up or cut it shorter before doing a final install.

 

[Dan Jarros]

If you're building them fixed cord you can tie one knot in the cable and let the UV gel lock the knot in place for your strain relief. On the first ones I had done the cable wound up slipping in and out threatening to pull on the drivers. This method fixed the problem.

 

[wjp007]

Does anyone have a good source for UV LEDs? I'm want to try making shells with the UV Nail gel. Looks like the wavelength needs to be around 365nm, but I'm not exactly sure.
Thanks

 

[tomtomtom]

Does anyone have a good source for UV LEDs? I'm want to try making shells with the UV Nail gel. Looks like the wavelength needs to be around 365nm, but I'm not exactly sure.
Thanks

Don't try to find LEDs, just buy cheap CFLs. These will work perfectly:
 
http://www.amazon.com/TOOGOO-Lamp-Light-Bulb-Dryer/dp/B00CAMCOT6/ref=pd_sbs_bt_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=0RH01FBHR3GTZPSV8BQX

 

[Dan Jarros]

He's right. but buy one of the UV nail dryer boxes on ebay with bulbs included. It's perfect. Do your back plates on a mirror. Go back and look at my earlier posts.

 

[wjp007]

Thanks, I saw that, was hoping to save some money.

For those that are having trouble soldering enamel coated headphone wires, I find dipping the tips in solder flux and then tinning with a solder ball on the tip of the iron works great. The flux helps burn off the enamel without leaving a burnt enamel residue.

 

[Dan Jarros]

Nice.

 

[wjp007]

I've made my resin copy of my impression.   I did dip my original impression in a thin coat of wax so it's slightly larger than my original.  They do fit snugly right now, but a bit hard to get in and out of my ear.  I highlighted in red what changes I looking to make.  Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks
 

 

[MuZo2]

I think making canal length shorter and adding a bit taper should help.
 

 

[wjp007]

Thanks will give it a shot.

 

[CMOS1138]

I am having difficulty fitting 2 sound tubes through the ear canal section of my prototype shells, If I bore out a large enough hole for 2 tubes, the walls are so thin that they are flexible. I am using the standard size acoustic tubing from microsonic as this is the smallest flexible tubing I can find but the diameter is quite a bit larger than the sound ports on my drivers. What kind of tubing are others using to fit 2 sound ports in the ear canal?

 

[MuZo2]

If canal are small you can use big bore tube to certain length and then 2 tubes for drivers.
 

 

[CMOS1138]

my acrylic is turning out with a yellow cast. anyone know how to avoid this?