[MamatYoSekmat]

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1oX7fBF-enCyL1vnP_3-iEyvkSzdqJeiH/view?usp=drivesdk
How do I deal with yellowing UV resin, I often use it outdoors

 

[et.haan]

It depends on how the shell should fit on the ear, Yes, it's trimmed to make it more comfortable on the tragus. Shell which has those, usually is thicker, the faceplate extend outward beyond the tragus. And also due to the shape of the ear canal itself, its pointing forward and a little bit upward. The nozzle has to point forward, but the shell has to sit behind the tragus, thats where the trims come.
That's also why those huge universal shell found on thingiverse, which has straight nozzle doesn't sit very comfortably on the ear.

small/thin shell such as shure doesn't have those because their faceplate doesn't extend outward beyond the tragus.

this makes sense. I am glad I did this now.

You seem like the guy to ask this - thoughts on past-second-bend impressions? I got mine to work, but it took a ton of dips and redips (into wax) to get them to fit correct. I am guessing this will make 16khz (maybe) 1-2db louder?

 

[et.haan]

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1oX7fBF-enCyL1vnP_3-iEyvkSzdqJeiH/view?usp=drivesdk
How do I deal with yellowing UV resin, I often use it outdoors

when lacquering, (with lack3, cant speak for other dreve lacquers) cure the lacquer for a minute or so. Any more will yellow them.

I have heard that over a week or two they will slowly fade back to being a little more clear, due to the exposure to a broader wavelength, though I cannot personally attest to this.

 

[et.haan]

Happy 700th page everybody! I am working on my universal fit’s in cad now, anybody have any say for tip size? I was thinking t-400 (because I have one I can measure lol)

Anybody have a t-500 or t-600 they can measure? I figure we can fit more sound bores this way, although t-400 already seems kinda big.

 

[et.haan]

Here is a very rough draft of a IEM shell, based on some pictures of the 64 audio universal demo shells.



I screen recorded my making them so Ill upload those to utube now. Its like 2 hours, and I made 2 of them. The first half I made at like 2 in the morning, so my cad was super sloppy and horrible. But, it will help you learn from my mistakes, i guess.


64... pls no sue...they barely look like yours lol

click for full size images

edit - after a later look, either 64’s iem’s are much, much larger. They use a larger stem/ear tip than mine do, so they have got to be massive. Anybody want to give me some measurements?

 

[et.haan]

working on a mk3 now.... anyways, here is an STL for that one. Let me know how it fits. I dont have a 3d printer. I am guessing it that where the ear has a "fin", seperating the main part of the ear from the concha, it will not rub. I dont know for sure. Who knows.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1YEFtAz7H4XcgAGw-2GzgkFA68jSSQx0n

edit - this is the right ear only. If it fits okay, let me know, and ill mirror it and publish the other one.

 

[wolkegeist]

working on a mk3 now.... anyways, here is an STL for that one. Let me know how it fits. I dont have a 3d printer. I am guessing it that where the ear has a "fin", seperating the main part of the ear from the concha, it will not rub. I dont know for sure. Who knows.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1YEFtAz7H4XcgAGw-2GzgkFA68jSSQx0n

edit - this is the right ear only. If it fits okay, let me know, and ill mirror it and publish the other one.

Which drivers are you going to use, because to my eye the shell cavity is quite small for multi drivers uses. Maybe make the body thicker and the tube shorter somehow.

 

[et.haan]

Which drivers are you going to use, because to my eye the shell cavity is quite small for multi drivers uses. Maybe make the body thicker and the tube shorter somehow.

yeah, I think you are right. The tube is the right size, but if you look at the 2pin socket, you can see how big it is. Ill overlay it on some impressions once I am done with mk3.

I am doing mk3 design inside a scan of my ear. This scan has no wax on it, so if it fits this, it should fit most medium size ears. I am adding a tiny bit of concha support too. The stem of mk2 has a second axis of bend as well. You’ll see when I upload it.

Mk2 (and 1) were both completely blind, with the measurements done roughly. I literally held a caliper up to a shell and thought “yeah, that’s good enough”

 

[wolkegeist]

yeah, I think you are right. The tube is the right size, but if you look at the 2pin socket, you can see how big it is. Ill overlay it on some impressions once I am done with mk3.

I am doing mk3 design inside a scan of my ear. This scan has no wax on it, so if it fits this, it should fit most medium size ears. I am adding a tiny bit of concha support too. The stem of mk2 has a second axis of bend as well. You’ll see when I upload it.

Mk2 (and 1) were both completely blind, with the measurements done roughly. I literally held a caliper up to a shell and thought “yeah, that’s good enough”

I don’t think the nozzle should be long, like maximum 3-4mm or something. If it’s too long you could accidentally jam it to your ears to hard that may leads to injury.

 

[et.haan]

I don’t think the nozzle should be long, like maximum 3-4mm or something. If it’s too long you could accidentally jam it to your ears to hard that may leads to injury.

I am doing what 64 is doing, which looks like 6-7, and including that little ramp-base 9-10mm.

You need like 5 to get an eartip on well.

I would call it audiophile depth, and not $20 amazon earbud depth, if you know what I mean.

 

[et.haan]

yeah, lots of wasted space. Red is mk2, inside of an ear, again, no wax. . I could put it much deeper, but the connector would be inside your ear, which wouldn’t work.

and here is the new one, with the extra axis of twist on the stem.
edit: concha support is proving to be a biatch.... it can wait. Besides, most universals don’t have it.

 

[et.haan]

yeah, lots of wasted space. Red is mk2, inside of an ear, again, no wax. . I could put it much deeper, but the connector would be inside your ear, which wouldn’t work.
and here is the new one, with the extra axis of twist on the stem.

my bad double post, safari on iphone doing its magic...

 

[dhruvmeena96]

The shell is good

Make the body protrude a little bit outside...to have slightly more shape

And once the shell is made

Try changing its design for more originality and convenience.

By the way

Did you complete the diy Tia driver?

 

[et.haan]

The shell is good

Make the body protrude a little bit outside...to have slightly more shape

And once the shell is made

Try changing its design for more originality and convenience.

By the way

Did you complete the diy Tia driver?

thanks! I am working on another reiteration. I think it will be a little better then.

No, not yet, if you mean the snoutless one. That will come after this build. Currently I have too many projects lol. Selling shifter kart too. (anybody want a 4 speed go kart?)

I accidentally plugged the tube for my HODVTEC, and as I cannot pull the tube, I will have to crack the shell and try to salvage the drivers. I got the HODVTEC out, and it is working fine.

Also ED is an amazing driver. I have no clue how I havent broken it. The wire I have on it keeps breaking, and I keep resoldering. This is like my 8th time resoldering it, and it is INSIDE the shell! This means it takes me a ton of time, touching it to my iron. Amazing! I am not a bad solderer, but lets just say, the SR build was my 2nd time ever soldering.

 

[et.haan]

AAAAUAUGJH! The abortion lives!
Its a little rough around the edges, which is to be expected from it being 3am. Ill clean it up tomorrow. Eventually. Ill post the video by 2030.
I am suprised this took this few reiterations, but viola.

Oh yeah. The faceplate. Whatever. Later. Sleep.