Home-Made IEMs
Feb 22, 2023 at 11:27 AM Post #15,047 of 15,989
Thank you . ED ? And how can i make it correct? So I should not use CI with 33 ?
Wire + wire to - pad (green arrows)
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Otherwise your ED will be cancelling with both 3300 and CI.

If you want less bassy like I said you can wire CI in reversed phase too (orange arrows), but I would add some extra resistor on it then - 20 ohms min probably if not more and remove damping from 3300 completely or use something like 4 ohms you have here. It also depends on the amount of acoustical damping you're going to apply to either CI and/or 3300.
Both CI and 3300 in the same phase configuration will create a bass monster.
 
Feb 22, 2023 at 11:34 AM Post #15,048 of 15,989
I would not. That will be a VERY dark end result Along with a heavy mid. I would use a wbfk in place of the CI.
Because i saw this and kinda want to make it by my self , of course i dont have wbft with me right now but gonna buy probably soon

And also ed is incorrect right?
Is it has to go positive to positive with cap and negative to negative ?
 

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Feb 22, 2023 at 11:41 AM Post #15,049 of 15,989
Wire + wire to - pad (green arrows)
E9A52D44-2694-47D1-B1FA-31CB4D5A4C96.jpeg
Otherwise your ED will be cancelling with both 3300 and CI.

If you want less bassy like I said you can wire CI in reversed phase too (orange arrows), but I would add some extra resistor on it then - 20 ohms min probably if not more and remove damping from 3300 completely or use something like 4 ohms you have here. It also depends on the amount of acoustical damping you're going to apply to either CI and/or 3300.
Both CI and 3300 in the same phase configuration will create a bass monster.
Thank you :)🙌
 
Feb 22, 2023 at 1:33 PM Post #15,050 of 15,989
Because i saw this and kinda want to make it by my self , of course i dont have wbft with me right now but gonna buy probably soon

And also ed is incorrect right?
Is it has to go positive to positive with cap and negative to negative ?
That SWFK missing from your design will make a quite dramatic difference it's an IEM that goes to 10-12kHz vs IEM that goes to 20kHz and that last octave will make a huge difference.
 
Feb 23, 2023 at 2:12 PM Post #15,053 of 15,989
what is profiosnal ear cleaning

a little bit late but what exactly did you mean by that? no audiologist i found offers ear cleaning
Then you have to find an Otorhinolaryngologist (ENT Doctor) to do it but actually I'm kinda surprised that the audiologist won't do it.
The audiologist can irrigate the ear canal. The deep cleaning where the ear wax is pulled out via vacuum, can only be done by an ENT doctor.
 
Feb 26, 2023 at 1:48 AM Post #15,054 of 15,989
Hi there .im trying to find this plasticine looking thing . The one i have is bad .
I need something thats will help me with my soldering.
Thank you
 

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Feb 26, 2023 at 11:29 AM Post #15,057 of 15,989
Hi there .im trying to find this plasticine looking thing . The one i have is bad .
I need something thats will help me with my soldering.
Thank you
I only use bluetac on occasion...I mainly use my padded vice or my swivel alligator clamps. I find it easier to solder from the top as opposed to the side and I use the alligator when I want to easily spin the BA and solder from the opposite side. I also hate getting the bluetac on my IEM or wiring....just my preference.
 

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Feb 26, 2023 at 12:32 PM Post #15,059 of 15,989
So, this is where I impart some wisdom I've learned to this group in the hopes it makes you better builders and saves some time. I know some will love the idea...some will hate it, but here goes: I HAVE NOT USED MY MIC TO TUNE MY IEMS FOR MY LAST 20 BUILDS......I HAVE BEEN USING MY SOUNDTHIEF. The concept is simple....your ears are used for hearing and most people can discern differences in volume, tone, notching, static, distortion...etc. I assemble my BA's, wire them, put the tubing on, and then use my soundthief to check. The soundthief is simply a long tube with an earpiece on it. I put one end in my ear, and move the open end of the tube to the mouth of the tube I want to check. I check left and right ear at the same time and LISTEN for differences....volume, tone, notching, distortion, etc. I don't have to hook up to a mic....I use my ears. I usually just use a pink noise generator......If they sound identical, which they SHOULD be, I move on to the next set. If they do NOT sound the same, I know EXACTLY where to look. A bad graph says something is wrong, but doesn't show you where.....this does. It also can pinpoint bad glue joints as you move it around the BA...open spots can be heard! It also saves time in assembly as I can quickly isolate something that has come undone. If you have wired in reverse, you can hear a difference as it will sound notched or scooped in comparison to the other. Once a BA is assembled before the face goes on, I can check to see if my treble spout sounds too bright, if my bass spout is too loud or bassy, and I can determine which damper to put in. It can also isolate issues once the IEM is completely assebled as you can hover over each individual spout. Yes it takes some practice, but I was getting very frustrated with my builds. People would make build suggestions on what looked great on a graph and none of them sounded right to me...so I ditched the graph and started listening. Hope this helps.
 

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Feb 26, 2023 at 12:58 PM Post #15,060 of 15,989
I use thin double sides tape made for smart phones. Be careful with pressing drivers and connectors into the tak or adhesive clay. When I first started building, i ruined 3-4 drivers by getting tak and adhesive clay inside the sound spout. Lastly, I would never use alligator clamps. They WILL cause unfixable dents into the driver housing. Those dents will alter the frequency output.
 
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