High end cables connected to questionable accessories.....

Aug 5, 2015 at 11:17 AM Thread Starter Post #1 of 5

Mozhoven

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Hello all,
 
I've been on a mission lately get the most from my B&W P7's, starting with replacing the stock cable. I decided to try the AudioQuest Evergreen 3' mini-to-mini, and replaced one end with a 2.5mm plug so it would fit in the P7. The results were promising enough for me to splurge and get the AudioQuest Big Sur 6' mini-to-mini.
 
In general, my question is related to the use of adapters (3.5-to-2.5mm) with such a cable. Assuming that the adapters are made of high-quality conductors, there shouldn't be any issues, right? I don't want to invest in a nice cable and negate its benefits by introducing an inferior component in the signal path.  Here's what I want to do:
 
To avoid altering a $150 nitrogren-filled cable by replacing the end with a 2.5mm plug, I thought I would make an adapter to fit the P7's 2.5mm interior plug, and terminate with a 3.5mm female plug on the outside. I would either make this adapter out of thick gauge solid copper wire I already have, either the Audioquest Evergreen wire (asymmetrical double-balanced 3 conductors) or Canary Star Quad L-436S cable (Symmetrical, 4 conductors). Of course, I could buy a shorter Big Sur cable and make my adapter, but it's just too expensive to justify that route.
 
To a lesser degree, this question also pertains to hard adapters and if they significantly affect sound quality (I can't locate a verified high-end 3.5mm-to-1/4" adapter)
 
 I know, in the end, the quantifiable differences between a pure cable run from source to headphones vs. a few adapters in between might be negligible (and perhaps non-existent), but I would appreciate some solid math to help ease a trouble mind.
 
Aug 7, 2015 at 11:22 PM Post #2 of 5
I figured I'd chime in for anyone interested. I made mine by using a drill as a pseudo lathe, with some sandpapers, and drastically reducing the diameters. I've tried high end termination like the Viablue T6, but it makes a very thin crap sound. The thing about termination is the distance is so minuscule that you shouldn't lose any signal within that range; I called the T6 crap, but it has nothing to do with materials (in fact, it was quite the contrary)... The internal grounding post is simply too small to complete the connection without a bottleneck, and thus it's like (in an exaggerated example) having 14awg wire that has the last inch as 24awg. I've had significantly better luck with neutriks, and even RadioShack termination. But you shouldn't be able to tell the difference between a silver, copper, rhodium... Etc termination.

Anyway, that's what I've discovered in the cables I've made for the P7s, and I'm sure there's many more suggestions and opinions out there that differ. Undoubtedly, someone will defend the Viablues... But ears don't lie during a double-blind.

Good luck man! Be sure to post pictures :]!
 
Aug 8, 2015 at 12:34 PM Post #4 of 5
.... The internal grounding post is simply too small to complete the connection without a bottleneck, and thus it's like (in an exaggerated example) having 14awg wire that has the last inch as 24th... :]!


I get the bottleneck issue, and using a plug with heavier gauge connectors should avoid the issue. I assume the same should apply in regards to the wire in the adapter I want to make. Even if it is a different brand,/style, It should be OK if it is equal to or greater than the main wire's gauge, correct?
 
Aug 8, 2015 at 1:35 PM Post #5 of 5
I get the bottleneck issue, and using a plug with heavier gauge connectors should avoid the issue. I assume the same should apply in regards to the wire in the adapter I want to make. Even if it is a different brand,/style, It should be OK if it is equal to or greater than the main wire's gauge, correct?


I'm not sure about the technicalities; I have used a Viablue T6, and it significantly degraded the sound. If you search my history, you'll even see a post made about it with some replies. As of now, I feel as long as I don't use a T6, I'll get maximum conductivity.


can the cable be soldered directly to the driver? That's what I'd do if I knew how.


You could, but it's honestly easier to simply add a terminal to it. You'll only create future problems unless you can come up with an impressive strain-relief for it. But as far as if it's possible... Of course it is!
 

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