[Idsynchrono_24]

Hey guys, the sound in the right driver of my SA5k's has gone out. This is not the first time this has happened to me, I owned a pair of SA3k's that had the sound go out in the left driver and I had to return them to Sony. This time, I can't do the same thing because I bought these off of a Head-Fier... I've traced the problem to the headphone jack, right where the rubber sheath ends, the sound would cut in and out when I wiggle the wire, it worked for a little while, I could listen if I sat still, but I knew it was only a matter of time before it died completely. So what is there that I can do? I really could use the help, this is the second time this has happened, and Sony's QC is really beginning to tick me off. Thanks guys.

Catch you later,
Id

 

[ericj]

Buy another 3.5mm stereo plug, chop off the old, install the new.

If you buy a plug from radioshack, well, their 1/8th stereo plugs work ok but the lugs that you solder to inside them are weak. they will short out against eachother unless you fill in the gaps between them with hot glue.

Other than that, in a pinch, the radioshack plugs basically sorta work.

The gold version costs the same as the nickel version because the amount of gold applied at the factory is essentially zero. It wears off very fast. Get the nickel version if you buy from the shack.

Mouser has a kobiconn right-angle plug - 171-3308 - for about a buck.

If you want to go all out . . . . I will admit to having used the Neutrik NYS231 and it's much better made than the radioshack plug, but has no strain relief - you'll need heatshrink. About a buck at parts express and wherever else you can find it.

If you want right-angle quality, the NTP3RC looks OK, and relatively expensive at $3.50

Mouser also stocks the Switchcraft 35HDBAU, and at $6.62 it better be damn fine.

 

[jerb]

Before you go and lop off the end of the cable do a quick test. the SA5k's are notorious for problems with the Y section (where the cable splits off to both drivers), try wiggling that to see if there's a problem if that checks out then work on the 3.5mm jack.

its a pretty easy task to reterminate these, you should have no problem fising the jack. just lop the old one off above the plasitc strain releif and solder that new jack on (just make sure you put the back part of the jack on the cable before you solder... I've forgotten once before)

most part sotes/suppliers should carry a 3.5mm jack... radioshacks work ok but I'm not a big fan of them. if you can grab a nuertrik (sp?) off of mouser, they dont have a minimum order like digikey

 

[Idsynchrono_24]

Thanks for the replies guys, the problem is definitely just above the jack, there is a little lump there in the cable, my SA3k's failed in the exact same place. I will try to reterminate them, I have no experience in doing this though. I guess I will have to pick up a gun and solder from Rat Shack. I'll probably grab a Neutrik plug, my guitar cable has a Neutrik and I like the quality of it.

Also, is there any way I could keep the old plug though? I tried to twist the jack off and see if the casing will come apart with no luck. I came across a thread here on Head Fi where a poster succeeded in taking his jack apart so I know I'm not nuts. Reason I ask is it's a pretty nice looking plug.

Catch you later,
Id

 

[ericj]

Factory plugs are almost always molded plastic, no disassembly without destruction.

The only exception in my collection is an aincent pair of AKG K141-M, which have a fairly decent quality plastic bodied 1/4" connector that unscrews.

 

[Idsynchrono_24]

Thanks for the help Eric, though I don't know, I'm pretty confident that the plug on the Sony SA5k is made of metal. GSFerrari, (who I bought the phones from) had a thread that detailed what parts of the 5k were metal and which were not. Like I said, I came across a thread where a user untwisted the plug from the casing similar to how a Neutrik plug comes apart... He said he did it with ease, I could not get the thing apart for the life of me though, I may just spring for a Neutrik plug, they have one that looks very similar to the stock plug.

Catch you later,
Id

 

[jerb]

a soldering iron will work better than a soldering gun

also if the plug is metal you should be able to unscrew it, there may be some threadlock on there that you need to overcome

 

[Idsynchrono_24]

Thanks for the tips everyone, I think I will just post a WTB in the for sale forum and hope for some help from a DIYer, purchasing a soldering iron, a plug and attempting to fix my phones with no experience does not sound too appealing.

Catch you later,
Id