[cheeseeater]

Anything I should know when choosing a BNC to BNC or an RCA to BNC cable? Or any cable suggestions? I'm hoping to find one about 1ft long.

 

[TGBerland]

I disagree with the responses claiming there are no use in a USB/SPDIF converter (if the DAC got USB2.0 interface). Of course, you need a high grade pricy converter, but most USB implementations on DACs are not the best. Even the high-end USB interface from MSB (Quad USB), which is regarded as one of the absolute best in the business, benefits from using Audiobyte Hydra-Z (with Hydra-ZPM) or Berkley Alpha. Lower noise floor, better transparency, instrument separation, better reverberation (and detailed), better texture of voices/instruments and wider/deeper soundstage is some of the benefits.
 
I have tried this on both MSB analog DAC with Quad USB interface and Schiit Yggdrasil. They both benefits.
 
Also, on all DACs; the AES/EBU, BNC SPDIF, Coax SPDIF (in ranked descending order) are superior too the USB-interface (you get better sound). The really high-end DACs get close on the USB interface, but still the other inputs are better (with the exception of optical maybe).

 

[MikeW]

I agree but things were different five years ago, back when this post was made...and today you don't even have to spend a fortune to get great performance a 60$ xu208 converter is better then a 1000$ off ramp from 2012

 

[ljbrandt]

  Sorry to insist, but I wonder if I can improve the sound quality on my following system. I am using a PC with a Creative X-Fi Platinum Fatal1ty Champion Series (pffff, could have used a shorter name) sound card that has front panel and can output S/PDIF in both coaxial and optical, from the front header and directly from the back of the card. I am using the digital output to feed the signal to a Denon AVR-1509 receiver, using it's DAC to convert the digital signal and finish the rest of the job to the speakers. Problem is from what I understood, since the clock generator (used to create digital square signal from data on the disc) is somehow under control of the OS (I use Windows 7 x64), there will be lots of IRQs that will somehow alter the accuracy of the square signal and thus creating jitter. I am directly outputing the signal bypassing the signal to the receiver, without card and Windows' mixer control (much), so little issues here. But the problems arise in the jitter.
 
Now, I read that outputting the signal directly via an USB-S/PDIF adapter to the DAC will eliminate the problem, since it uses it's own clock generator, outside of Windows' control. Although I wonder if this is the case, since Windows controls USB ports as well. But my question is: is it worth spending a lot of money on expensive USB-S/PDIF converters, or any cheap one will do the job just as well, of course apart from the supported formats ? My DAC supports 24 bit 96 KHz only, so I wonder if any cheap USB-S/PDIF converter will eliminate the jitter just as efficient as an expensive one.
 
I am looking forward to your answers. Thanks.

I have the same question, but my receiver is a Yamaha RX-Z9.  Would a $60 SMSL X-USB interface be worth sticking in-between the PC and A/V receiver?

 

[Sterling2]

OP,
The $90.00 Creative Sound Blaster X-FI HD Premium external sound card has been on the market for about 5, maybe 6 years. This unit has a USB to S/PDIF (Toslink) conversion function,delivering bit perfect up to 24/96 or down converting to 24/96. I bought one of these to get iTunes on computer to my home theatre preamp, since my legacy preamp does not have USB or HDMI audio input. The sound is indistinguishable from music I have on SACD. So, when the only way to get music from computer to a legacy pre/pro is through a USB to S/PDIF conversion, I would not worry about the sort of sound you are going to get. I also have an Airport Express which gives my pre/pro an Airplay wireless function. This unit converts all bit and bite rates to 16/44 which is also sent to my pre/pro for decoding via S/PDIF input. Music from iTunes to pre/pro using this wireless means is also indistinguishable in how it sounds from music I have on SACD. Only thing, if I am using my computer for multiple tasks, sometimes I will get a dropout in sound. Bottomline, the $90.00 Creative Sound Blaster X-FI HD may be a solution.

 

[joheneslly]

In my opinion, if you want to connect a PC without SPDIF to audio gear with SPDIF input only, a USB to SPDIF converter is the solution.

 

[Sterling2]

In my opinion, if you want to connect a PC without SPDIF to audio gear with SPDIF input only, a USB to SPDIF converter is the solution.

That's a fact. There are indeed plenty of these devices out there; but, an external sound card, like the X-FI HD will perform usb to S/SPDIF and other functions to get analog and digital content back into the computer, like LP's, or CD's.