Help me build my first cable for my first entry headphone :)
Oct 24, 2012 at 2:56 PM Thread Starter Post #1 of 11

f iDeL

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Hello to all of you!
 
I'll order in the next week or so my first entry audiophile headphone.
So I would like to recable it not just because of the sound improvement that it's possible to have
but also for the look!
 
So I decided to make one...
 
The problem is that I have some questions that I cannot find the answer...
 
1) I'll go for the Mogami W2893 and I'll milliot braid it, will a 3/16" sleeving fit it?
2) I'll do it dual entry so, should I have to buy 8 times the amount of ft I want in order to make 2 channel and 2 ground per can
or I'll buy for example 2x6ft and I'll take off the small 4 cables inside the black plastic sleeve?
I would like to create something like this but with blue Mogami w2894 and then maybe I'll sleeve it but I'm confused...
is this 8 wires before Y and then 4 wires per can?
http://images.ecwid.com/images/1139068/45233848.jpg
and if so then what about this?
https://www.gpanagopoulos.com/eshop/images/detailed_images/C11099-11.jpg
 
I really need help on how much wire should I purchase and how to connect all the cables to the jack... :frowning2:
 
Thanks in advance and I hope someone will help me soon :)
 
Oct 25, 2012 at 9:37 AM Post #3 of 11
You did not tell what headphone it will be. Someone may have direct suggestion for that specific HP but you still can use the seach function to find out if someone already has done what you want.
On the picture I think he used 3 wire on one channel because you can not braid 2 wire. I would be then only a twisted pair that you can cover with techflex.
Then you need less cable to buy (4x the length instead 6x the length).
If you are doing double entry then you can calculate the wire needed and multiply it with the number of wires per side. It won't be hard to make it.
 
On the latter picture the cable is able to wire a headset ... headphone and a microphone on one cable.
 
Oct 25, 2012 at 12:51 PM Post #5 of 11
Thanks guys for your answers!
 
Actually I'm going for the superlux hd668b
and I'm thinking of making a litz braid with 4 wires (mogami w2893)
then I'll dual entry it and I'll split the cables 2 per can...
Now the question is
 
1) which colors for the left can and which for the right?
2) also when I'll split the cable then the 4 wires will be +L - L +R -R ?
3) I would like also to make them detachable so, can you please recommend some male/female jacks?
4) what about 550 paracord sleeving? any microphonics?
 
thanks a lot! 
 
Oct 25, 2012 at 3:44 PM Post #6 of 11
1) I think red is right and blue is left ... but I would not buy color cable so I have not thought about it much.
2) Normally you have 2 signals and one ground. So (L+) (R+) (common -) on the Jack connector, so you solder two wires for the ground each goes to one driver.
3) How do you want to fix those jacks? Just hang it on 1" of cable? It would be funny this way. Seeing the superlux I would make the cable rather fixed.
4) paracord is a parachute cord... do you mean techflex? Or is it some fancy cotton sleeving?
 
Oct 25, 2012 at 6:34 PM Post #7 of 11
For the third part, I want to make the detachable like this one but for both cans as I'll go for dual entry
http://www.head-fi.org/content/type/61/id/651592/
but I need some recommendations cause I don't know which male/female jacks to order...
 
As for the paracord, yes it's a parachute cord but if you remove the inside fiber then you make a nice sleeve
I just don't know if I'll have microphonic issues.
 
After a small research I found that some believe the detachable cable it's not as good option as to solder directly into the cans
is it true? it will be better if I just solder directly and not make a dual entry detachable cable?
 
Oct 26, 2012 at 2:23 AM Post #8 of 11
I know what you mean, but you also told me you are modding a superlux hd668b. For the jack connector you need some space inside the cans, and I do not see where can it be installed in the superlux.
The Shure you posted above has a much larger diameter can. For size reference search for 1/8" jack socket. You will find something like this, you do not need stereo but mono.:

This type of open frame jack connectors are the smallest, and perfect for installing into cans. But You still need space for inside.
Buy some and if you think it fits, then do it.
 
For some people the less mechanical connection is better. To prevent oxidising, thus contact errors buy gold plated jacks and plugs. For a real life rule, you will not find many (any) audiophile grade sockets in this class but many plugs.
So the above socket is all right at least if it has gold or nickel plating on. For plugs, you can buy anything for $$$ but be reasonable.
 
By the way I don't think microphonics is a real issue with circumaural headphones. It is a term often used with in-ear phones.
 
Oct 26, 2012 at 6:40 AM Post #9 of 11
@earfanatic First of all I want to thank you cause you've been so helpful!
 
now I just saw some pictures and I also believe that it wont fit inside hd668b but I'll give it a try...
I decided to go for 2x/switchcraft 35PM1 and 3x switchcraft 35HDBAU or 35HDLBAUS I don't know if 35HDLBAUS worth the extra money...
 
the only thing I'm not quite sure how to do is how to c0nnect the braided 4 wires...
after I'll braid I'll just seperate the 4 cables into 2+2 and then I'll decide which 2 will go to +L -L and +R-R? because inside the w2893 there are also a black and a clear cable... what am I suppose to with those? should I just connect all of them together and make 2 big cables for every can and then just solder?
 
 
Thanks again and sorry for my silly questions! :p
 
Oct 26, 2012 at 9:23 AM Post #10 of 11
Hmm... I checked the Mogami W2893 datasheet and the cable has 4 conductors, 2xblue and 2xclear. Also it has a shield.
This is all what you need. Let the blue be the (+) signal and the clears be the ground.
 
On the jack side you connect one blue for left and one to right conductors, twist the two clear together and solder it to the jack's ground.
 
This is done until the Y part. From that You remove the shielding and get only the 4 conductors. Separate them to have the left+ground and right+ground.
You can make a twisted pair of each and cover with a sleeve. On the can side you solder the mono jack: one signal and one ground.
By the way for the cans you can buy mono plugs too...
 
This is maybe not what you wanted first. If You want to braid 4 strands I think you need to search for a different cable.
The Mogami W2893 outer diameter is 4,8mm. It will be a bit bulky, 4 of this braided. But if you want to do this you do not need the 4 conductor cable either. If you still want to use this, then yes, you can twist the four strands to form one signal and the shielding for ground on each cable.
But it is equal to a cable with only one conductor.
 
Oct 26, 2012 at 5:42 PM Post #11 of 11
You've been very helpful with this post!
If the mogami w2893 has 2xblue and 2xclear then maybe I can do this... right?
 
http://www.imagetoo.com/images/hd668bsold.jpg
 
EDIT: also if my drawing is correct and I choose to go with mogami w2893 will a 1/8 sleeving fit? or I have to go for a bigger one?
whats your suggestion for a 4 braided wire?
 
EDIT 2: I don't want to braid and then sleeve them all together, I want to sleeve every w2893 separately and then braid them...
Actualy if w2893 has a diameter of 4.8mm then it will be a huge braided cable so I will not go for this...
So I'll search for another cable and I'm waiting your suggestion :)
 

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