[violinvirtuoso]

As you can see in my profile, the stock cable on my TripleFis is falling apart, again! The first time, the cable broke when I tried to perform the Flip-Flop Mod. Ultimate Ears was nice enough to send a replacement cable promptly. This time, the memory wire is about to poke through the cable. Even if Ultimate Ears is willing to send another cable, I don't want it.
 
So then I was deciding between going DIY and getting a third-party cable. I didn't have connectors (into the IEMs) so I skipped over DIY. Now I found the connectors.
 
So I am planning to use these two parts:
 
UE Connectors:
http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/484730/source-for-molded-ue-iem-connectors
 
Viablue 1/8 in. plug:
http://www.null-audio.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=211&zenid=ba1lirkoorat4rel5jnt5j8593
 
Cable??????
 
I was considering Jena Labs Ultrawire thinking that 5 feet of cable would be sufficient. When they e-mailed me back, they reminded me that to make even a basic cable, I would need 4. This means I would need to buy a minimum of 16 feet of Ultrawire, over $80!
 
Then I considered getting a bunch of Teflon wires, and realized that the Teflon produces lots of microphonics.
 
I'd prefer to spend $50 or less on the cable. However, if the cable is that much better, I will consider it.
 
I'd like to make a cable that is flexible enough to still fit in the UE Case, has no or extremely minimal microphonics (important!), is durable,  and that makes my Triple.Fis sound better.
 
What gauge cable should I get? 18 AWG, 22 AWG?
 
Of course a guide is necessary as well. Besides the cable, the UE Connectors, the Viablue plug, and a soldering iron is there anything I will need?
 
How do you braid the cable, make a Y-Split, solder everything together?
 
Thank you for any and all help!

 

[chiefroastbeef]

This seems to be your first cable, and it seems that you've never soldered before either, I wouldn't try and use expensive wire on the first recabling job.  Buy some silver-plated-copper wire from Navship on ebay, it is cheap enough, and according to others it is decent.  Buy a couple of the connectors from HK so you have enough to do multiple projects.
 
You'll need a cheap ~25watt soldering iron (cheap iron will do, buy a cheap stand and sponge for cleaning the tip), helping hands, pliers, tweezers, wire stripper (optional, can use the pliers to strip), decent solder, hot glue (to fill the connector for strain relief, or the wires will snap, and also strain relief for the viablue jack perhaps).
 
If this is your first soldering job, I'd also recommend practicing first with cheaper components, save that viablue connector for when you are ready.  It isn't hard to solder a cable together, but still, practicing makes perfect!

 

[violinvirtuoso]

Though this is my first recabling job, I am getting help from my brother. He has done DIY quite a bit and is fairly experienced with a soldering iron. I already have a soldering iron.
 
I'd get Navships cables, but how good is it? Does it produce microphonics? Is it made to sound good, or at least made for audio projects?
 
What guage wire would be optimal?
 
And are there any guides (particularly with lots of pictures or a video)?
 
Sorry for all the questions, this is my first recabling and I am a little lost on what to do.

 

[momomo6789]

24-26awg

 

[anm]

I am in the same boat. I want to recable my tf ue 10 as well.

 

[mugdecoffee]

For IEMs you'll want at most 26awg if not thinner.  Also I second navships wire for a first cable.  Its nice quality and cheap, especially when you consider shipping from other places.

 

[violinvirtuoso]

Though expensive, I am now considering HomeGrown Audio Wire and UPOCC Wires.
 
Would this wire work:
http://cgi.ebay.com/24-AWG-Solid-Silver-wire-clear-Teflon-insulation-/160322317185?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2553f46b81
 
Would this wire work:
http://cgi.ebay.com/AWG28-0-3MM-Solid-Core-UPOCC-SILVER-Audio-BARE-WIRE-20M-/110545141145?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19bd00fd99
 
If I got the bare wire above, what insulation should I use? Multifilament nylon sleeving?
[size=14pt]

[/size]

 

[pdupiano]

Don't use HGA wire for iems unless you know what you're doing, and to be honest, even if you know what you're doing don't use them for iem wires. They are very microphonic because they lack any form of dampening, and because they are solid strand rather than stranded, they lack the flexibility required for portable headphone cables.
 
I suggest grabbing some mogami or canare cables from markertek or redco. I have some of those UE plugs and you can fit 24awg wires into the plugs, anything bigger (22 or lower) will be tough to work with. Additionally only 26awg wires seem to fit through the housing of the plug. I would go with multifilament if you are worried about microphonics.

 

[KnightK]

If I put the multifilament nylon sleeving over the whole cable, would there be any microphonics?
 
Stranded wire (not solid) is best for this endeavor?
 
Can anyone comment on the use of this cable (assuming I get a version with 24 or 26 AWG)?
http://cgi.ebay.com/AWG28-0-3MM-Solid-Core-UPOCC-SILVER-Audio-BARE-WIRE-20M-/110545141145?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19bd00fd99

 

[ccfoodog]

 
I think I'm going to try to make a cable with 28 AWG 19 strand Teflon wire from Navships on eBay, but use the SILK-315 and SILK-425 silk sleeving from vt4c.com. 
 
The 19 strand 28 AWG wire seems somewhat microphonic, but is fairly flexible and about the right size and has a good number of strands.  I too was wondering if a good sleeving could cut the microphonics and the silk sleeve seems fairly optimal for that.  Although, the white color is begging to look dirty fairly quick.
 
The SILK-315 says 1.5mm ID and two strands of the 28 AWG fits in it OK.  Actually you can get two of the 25 AWG strands from the vt4c.com SPC-V4-silver wire in there, but is is kinda a stretch.  The SILK-425 says ID of 2.5mm and you can fit four strands of the 28 AWG in there.
 
There was also some talk of using the sheathing from 550 paracord, which might be a bit more practical (sturdier, more stain resistant, more colors).
 
My guess is this isn't going to be optimal, but perhaps passible.  I can certainly tell it isn't going to come out as nice as the stock UE custom and Westone ES cables.
 
-john

 

[ShinyFalcon]

The sleeving on the Navships is teflon, and pretty slippery. Whether it says anything about getting dirty, I don't know... it doesn't seem that way to me

 
That said, the 24 gauge was awfully stiff, so I don't know if it's any better with the 28 gauge...

 

[ccfoodog]

 
WRT dirt, I'm talking about the white, silk sleeving.  I specifically go the 19 strand wire which should be softer than the normal 7(?) strand he normally sells.
 
*shrug*
 
-john

 

[violinvirtuoso]

Why is a stranded cable better than a solid cable for an IEM? Is it more flexible, less microphonic, what?

 

[ccfoodog]

My understanding is they tend to more flexible and more resistant to metal fatigue. 
 
-john

 

[mugdecoffee]

Quote:

Why is a stranded cable better than a solid cable for an IEM? Is it more flexible, less microphonic, what?

I think the biggest reason is that solid core wire is stiff and people tend to move while wearing IEMs.  Beyond that, solid core wires can break easier.  In a stranded cable, the individual strands are more flexible and even if a couple do break at a point, other strands can carry the signal.