[petrini_bigsmart]

Thanks for reply

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fred_fred2004 /img/forum/go_quote.gif measure your virtual ground split, it could be out

How do I do this? can you please explain me?
Here are some pics whit my Amp.

 

[Fred_fred2004]

Measure the voltage from pin 8 to ground and pin 4 to ground they should be very close if not check the virtual ground circuit (the 2 big electros & the 2 resistors), also check under the board its super easy to have solder bridge between two tracks on the perf board

 

[petrini_bigsmart]

check the virtual ground circuit (the 2 big electros & the 2 resistors), also check under the board its super easy to have solder bridge between two tracks on the perf board[d /QUOTE]

Thanks Fred I debt you a beer!
It was one of the condenser which had a cold joint and I also think that I had a little bridge between the amp and the ground.
Now its works and the sound its fantastic whith no hiss or distorsion
I will post some fotos after I finish the caseing.

 

[lasraik]

Looking forward to seeing your pictures when it's all cased

Quote:

Originally Posted by mhamel /img/forum/go_quote.gif Lasraik, The mouser part number for the potentiometer is: 688-RK0971221Z05 - for the TLE2426CP, the Mouser part number is 595-TLE2426CP Both are in stock. -Mike

Thanks Mike! I do see the TLE2426CP in stock. The number I had was identical except at the end it had an LP. Is this the correct part for the cmoybb? Got my parts list from the JDSLabs website.

However I don't see any potentiometers in stock there, out of stock with a lead time of 10 weeks

Any other place you may know of that sells them?

Quote:

Originally Posted by oneplustwo /img/forum/go_quote.gif Not to derail your plan, but another option is the JDSlabs cmoy BB PCB. That was my first built. You'll probably learn more with tangent's way... but thought it was worth mentioning at least.

That's the one part I was confused with, the PCB and why I ended up going that route because the PCB from JDS is printed (correct me if I'm wrong). It's been a while since I've done electronics and I'm rusty.

 

[mhamel]

Lasraik,

The TLE2426CP is in a 8-pin DIP package, rather than a 3-pin TO-92, but as long as you work with the data sheet and use the correct pins, you can use it just the same. If you need the smaller package, that one does appear to be out of stock currently.

As for the pot... my mistake, I looked quickly last night, and mixed up the "in stock" quantity with the "on order" quantity. Given that, easiest would be to order from Tangent's parts shop, since he has that available.

-Mike

 

[lasraik]

I'll check that site, thank you so much for your help - can't tell you how much it's appreciated. Haven't played with electronics in a long while, and even though I'm excited to try, I'm equally confused

 

[lasraik]

Just so I don't order the wrong part, it's the model ALPS RK097 on Tangents store, right?

 

[mhamel]

Lasraik,

Yep, that's the one you want.

Until about a month or so ago, I'd been away from DIY/electronics for a number of years... had forgotten how much I enjoy it. Tangent's CMOY guide is a great way to get into amp building. I know there's been some suggestion about using pre-made boards, but IMO, starting with the proto-board is the way to go. One tends to learn a lot more that way, especially if there's troubleshooting involved - and having Head-Fi as a resource to learn/share info is a huge help. Searching back through the archives of the DIY forum can yield an amazing wealth of information, as well.

-Mike

 

[lasraik]

I was originally going to do that, but decided on the BB model. I figured it wouldn't be the same process as the Tanget walkthrough/FAQ so I would play it safe for my first one and get the printed bb board from JDS

 

[Fred_fred2004]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fred_fred2004 /img/forum/go_quote.gif check the virtual ground circuit (the 2 big electros & the 2 resistors), also check under the board its super easy to have solder bridge between two tracks on the perf board[d /QUOTE] Thanks Fred I debt you a beer! It was one of the condenser which had a cold joint and I also think that I had a little bridge between the amp and the ground. Now its works and the sound its fantastic whith no hiss or distorsion I will post some fotos after I finish the caseing.

Glad it's working, you do realise that's the only cheap thing you're ever going to do on here, your wallet is now at serious risk

 

[petrini_bigsmart]

Quote:

Originally Posted by petrini_bigsmart /img/forum/go_quote.gif Glad it's working, you do realise that's the only cheap thing you're ever going to do on here, your wallet is now at serious risk

Yes I know, but its something special making your own audio gear, its not something anonymus, would be cheaper buying from store but this can do everybody and when something its hand made has soul.

 

[lasraik]

Yeah there's definitely something special about making it yourself instead of having someone else make it.

At least I think so now, lets see how much trouble I have when my parts arrive

 

[audiomonkey]

Since the discussion here is talking about Tangent, can someone please explain what he means by this

"The pot’s resistance is 50 KΩ, making it widely compatible with a lot of equipment while still adding very little noise to your circuit."

By equipment, does he mean headphones? I have a pair of Sein HD 280 Pros 64 KΩ.

 

[tangent]

He means sources.

A lot of tubed gear and old SS gear (like from the 70s) has a high output impedance and relatively low current drive, so they have trouble driving a low input impedance headphone amp. If you're using modern SS sources or tubed gear with a strong output stage, going with 10K instead will lower your noise floor.

Whether the difference is audible is a different question. I can't remember seeing anyone report an audible noise floor drop by switching from a 50K to a 10K pot. Usually there are more effective culprits to go after, like excessive gain.

 

[petrini_bigsmart]

Hi guy's as I promisse here are the Pictures. Tonight I will make the last finish work on the case.
A question: does any one know a good mic preamp for condenser microphones and whit instructions tangentsoft like? I have no ideea how to read a electonic scheme

Thanks again