[ToroFiestaSol]

Regarding the P3 Power plant, the US and EU versions (US left, EU right) have this specs:
 

Maximum Continuous Load	800VA	1200VA
Maximum Peak Load	1000VA	1500VA

 
Your BHSE has 1600v peak to peak...P3 is limiting BHSE current.
 
You may want to try a non current limiting power conditioner, like Shunyata for example...that should give you better results

 

[yates7592]

Regarding the P3 Power plant, the US and EU versions (US left, EU right) have this specs:

Maximum Continuous Load	800VA	1200VA
Maximum Peak Load	1000VA	1500VA

Your BHSE has 1600v peak to peak...P3 is limiting BHSE current.

You may want to try a non current limiting power conditioner, like Shunyata for example...that should give you better results

Is P5 any better in this respect? I couldn't find the actual current specs.

 

[ToroFiestaSol]

Is P5 any better in this respect? I couldn't find the actual current specs.

 
http://www.psaudio.com/perfectwave-p5-power-plant/
 
Check "Specifications"
 

Maximum Continuous Load	1000VA	1500VA
Maximum Peak Load	1200VA	1800VA

It's better but...not enough
 
At those prices, I would try this:
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z6f1kwyZbM8&t=2s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H77ivPYVIvg
 
It's said to improve dynamics also, demo looks very convincing

 

[yates7592]

Blimey, seems BHSE needs the P10 which is just ok. Not sure how much head room is needed.

 

[kevin gilmore]

Ummmmm
 
1600V is definitely not the same as 1600VA  !!!!
 
BHSE is less than 400VA
 
Still, overkill is always a really good thing.

 

[JimL11]

  Regarding the P3 Power plant, the US and EU versions (US left, EU right) have this specs:
 

Maximum Continuous Load	800VA	1200VA
Maximum Peak Load	1000VA	1500VA

 
Your BHSE has 1600v peak to peak...P3 is limiting BHSE current.
 
You may want to try a non current limiting power conditioner, like Shunyata for example...that should give you better results

WRONG!  You are confusing what the BHSE takes in with what it puts out.  The amp itself is Class A and differential, which means it has a constant power draw of 180 watts.  It does this continuously regardless of whether it is sitting idle or driving the headphones.  In theory, driving the headphones should result in NO CHANGE in the power being drawn from the AC wall socket at all.  Any power conditioner that can provide at least 180 watts is adequate. The P3 is specified as supply up to 800 VA or 800 watts.  
 
Although the peak output voltage is 1600 volts peak to peak the amplifier is only putting out a few milliamps at the same time, so the power output is only on the order of 1 watt.  And if you think that a 180 watt power amp generating 2 watts peak (stereo) is a bit of overkill, well, yeah!

 

[ToroFiestaSol]

Ooops tremendous typo I made
 
Thanks for clarifying

 

[HeadAmpTeam]

  Ummmmm
 
1600V is definitely not the same as 1600VA  !!!!
 
BHSE is less than 400VA
 
Still, overkill is always a really good thing.

 
Saved me the trouble, thanks KG!

 

[statfi]

   
If you really believe that the BHSE's Umbilical cable can also be fine tuned, then you may want to look at this 3rd party Umbilical cable for the BHSE from Stefan AudioArt 

 

Interesting.  The *name* of the product is:
"Endorphin High-End Umbilical Power Cable for the Justin Wilson Blue Hawaii SE"
If anyone has tried these, could they give a mini-review?

 

[statfi]

....
At those prices, I would try this:
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z6f1kwyZbM8&t=2s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H77ivPYVIvg
 
It's said to improve dynamics also, demo looks very convincing

Thanks to Justin and Kevin.  Driving the BHSE is well within the PS P3's capabilities.  After all, it is usually used with loudspeaker systems that need a lot more power.  A few of take-aways:
1) The quality of power can vary substantially during the day to an extent that is clearly audible in audio reproduction.
2) The quality of wiring to your place of listening is important.
3) "Power conditioners" are a mixed bag.  The PS P3 helped compensate for poor quality wiring and reduced the audible effects of diurnal variations in the quality of mains power, but also had deleterious effects.
4) Reducing EMI on "power" lines can yield audible benefits.
 
Thanks to ToroFiestaSol for the references.  In fact I have been awaiting a home demo of Shunyata's Denali.  It uses, among other things, ferroelectrics to reduce line noise, for $X000.  I was playing with the more common ferromagnetic clamps, for $X0, to set a reasonable baseline on which to evaluate the Denali.  I'll give some report at this site.  I have found that, without a conditioner like the Denali, adding ferrite to "midlevel" power cords (not umbilicals, now) can allow them to perform audibly better than much more expensive cords.   From the point of view of high-end audio, they are an absolute bargain.  However, possibly SOTA conditioning for all the cords will allow the more expensive cables' performance to outshine that of their less expensive siblings.
 
(Confession: for decades I have had my head not only clamped in Stax Earspeakers, but somehow deeply buried in the sand, ignoring what now seems obvious: the power going into components affects the sound quality coming out.  The reason that commercial power-delivery products can cost as much as the differences between high-end components is because using them makes comparable audible differences. )

 

[Rossliew]

Thanks to Justin and Kevin.  Driving the BHSE is well within the PS P3's capabilities.  After all, it is usually used with loudspeaker systems that need a lot more power.  A few of take-aways:
1) The quality of power can vary substantially during the day to an extent that is clearly audible in audio reproduction.
2) The quality of wiring to your place of listening is important.
3) "Power conditioners" are a mixed bag.  The PS P3 helped compensate for poor quality wiring and reduced the audible effects of diurnal variations in the quality of mains power, but also had deleterious effects.
4) Reducing EMI on "power" lines can yield audible benefits.

Thanks to ToroFiestaSol for the references.  In fact I have been awaiting a home demo of Shunyata's Denali.  It uses, among other things, ferroelectrics to reduce line noise, for $X000.  I was playing with the more common ferromagnetic clamps, for $X0, to set a reasonable baseline on which to evaluate the Denali.  I'll give some report at this site.  I have found that, without a conditioner like the Denali, adding ferrite to "midlevel" power cords (not umbilicals, now) can allow them to perform audibly better than much more expensive cords.   From the point of view of high-end audio, they are an absolute bargain.  However, possibly SOTA conditioning for all the cords will allow the more expensive cables' performance to outshine that of their less expensive siblings.

(Confession: for decades I have had my head not only clamped in Stax Earspeakers, but somehow deeply buried in the sand, ignoring what now seems obvious: the power going into components affects the sound quality coming out.  The reason that commercial power-delivery products can cost as much as the differences between high-end components is because using them makes comparable audible differences. )

Do you mind sharing a link as to where one can purchase the ferrite clamps? Thanks

 

[statfi]

Do you mind sharing a link as to where one can purchase the ferrite clamps? Thanks

If you want to play with ferrites on power chords that are 1/2" or less in diameter, you can purchase ferrite clamps like
https://www.amazon.com/CellCase-Diameter-Magnetic-Ferrite-Suppressor/dp/B00VICXOVG/ref=pd_bxgy_147_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=P3PN5JJEQN4TKAJEZDCJ
I have used MANY of these on my system with good effect, but not reported in detail here.
 
However, the BHSE umbilical is too large for these.
 
I am a EE with some DIY tendencies.  I bought a lot of ferrites at a local, classic, real electronics shop 
http://www.halted.com/commerce/index.jsp;jsessionid=375B78DCAC8A2CC183454590067BDB59?czuid=1485962335022
that sells resistors, transistors, oscilloscope, etc. 
 
For the BHSE umbilical, I used solid toroids of unmarked but "soft" 5/8"-long ferrite toroids with ~3/4"ID & ~1 1/4"OD, carefully broke them with a punch and hammer into 2 or three pieces (with about 50% yield of useful results) and taped them back together around the umbilical!  Halted is convenient for me: ~45min by bicycle  !-)
 
If I did not have Halted in my back yard, I would have pursued, e.g.,
https://www.amazon.com/CellCase-Diameter-Magnetic-Ferrite-Suppressor/dp/B00VICXOVG/ref=pd_bxgy_147_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=P3PN5JJEQN4TKAJEZDCJ
I have not communicated with them, but I suspect that they would be able to help you not need a hammer and punch  !-)

 

[Rossliew]

If you want to play with ferrites on power chords that are 1/2" or less in diameter, you can purchase ferrite clamps like
https://www.amazon.com/CellCase-Diameter-Magnetic-Ferrite-Suppressor/dp/B00VICXOVG/ref=pd_bxgy_147_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=P3PN5JJEQN4TKAJEZDCJ
I have used MANY of these on my system with good effect, but not reported in detail here.

However, the BHSE umbilical is too large for these.

I am a EE with some DIY tendencies.  I bought a lot of ferrites at a local, classic, real electronics shop 
http://www.halted.com/commerce/index.jsp;jsessionid=375B78DCAC8A2CC183454590067BDB59?czuid=1485962335022
that sells resistors, transistors, oscilloscope, etc. 

For the BHSE umbilical, I used solid toroids of unmarked but "soft" 5/8"-long ferrite toroids with ~3/4"ID & ~1 1/4"OD, carefully broke them with a punch and hammer into 2 or three pieces (with about 50% yield of useful results) and taped them back together around the umbilical!  Halted is convenient for me: ~45min by bicycle  !-)

If I did not have Halted in my back yard, I would have pursued, e.g.,
https://www.amazon.com/CellCase-Diameter-Magnetic-Ferrite-Suppressor/dp/B00VICXOVG/ref=pd_bxgy_147_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=P3PN5JJEQN4TKAJEZDCJ
I have not communicated with them, but I suspect that they would be able to help you not need a hammer and punch  !-)

Thanks a lot for the links, much appreciated For the moment I would like to try them on the power cords first so I guess a 13mm internal diameter one is best for me.

 

[Ali-Pacha]

Hey,
 
asking the question again, here and there (BHSE tube-rolling thread). Has anyone ever tested STR-450 Mesa Boogie / Siemens NOS RFT (exactly the same) ? Thanks !

Ali

 

[JimL11]

See Blue Hawaii Special Edition p.411, posts by TheAttorney.

  Hey,
 
asking the question again, here and there (BHSE tube-rolling thread). Has anyone ever tested STR-450 Mesa Boogie / Siemens NOS RFT (exactly the same) ? Thanks !

Ali

Google is your friend.  See Head-Fi, Blue Hawaii Special Edition thread p.411, posts by TheAttorney.