mudlouse
Head-Fier
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- Mar 20, 2005
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Looks like I got bored and decided to take apart my HD3 to post pics of it over the Internet... nah, there's a good reason which will be explained later on.
So, continuing from cykalan's thread, here's some more detailed images and useful tips on taking apart the HD3.
Basically, I wanted to swap the metal casing of the black with the silver. This was because the original silver unit had a scuffed case and the black unit was perfect apart from a busted screen. There's already pictures of many exterior shots in the original thread, so let's skip straight to the innards.
When sliding off the casing, you'll find a ribbon cable connecting the pcb to the front panel buttons, be careful not to tear this. Unlike most ribbon connectors, you simply flip up the terminal flap to "unclamp" the cable (see below). The acrylic/plastic screen on the front does not look like it can be easily removed, it's probably glued to the metal.
This is the second ribbon cable, this one is for the panel controls on the top of the player.
The left picture shows the ribbon from the top control panel. The right shows the side of the casing once the side plating has been removed.
The battery is actually smaller than those found in mobile phones, i'm amazed that it can actually power a mechanical drive.
The USB/power connection socket is covered by some metal plating, which comes off easily. It's actually easier to put on after the insides are slid back into the casing.
On the left is the bottom panel that houses the Hold and Battery buttons. Note the "fixtures" on the panel, this means you have to slide the panel to get it on or off the unit, do not just force it on or off. The picture on the right shows the side plating, socket plating and another piece of metal plating that screws onto the top left of the pcb (see below). I assume it has two main functions, a) to protect the HD ribbon cable and b) to secure the side plating once screwed in.
These are just shots to show how amazingly well thought out the HD3 is (in terms of build). The screws that are used are just to miniscule!
Here is the ribbon cable from the HD to the unit itself. The picture on the right shows that the EL panel (the "sheet" that lights up the screen) is actually soldered onto the pcb directly. This means that to remove the screen, soldering is required.
This is an overall shot of the front and back of the pcb attached to the HD.
A slightly closer shot of the front and back of the pcb. I would have taken off the screen to reveal chips and other goodies, but I'm just too lazy to break out the soldering iron. Yes, I know the screen is broken!
Finally, here's the "frame" that holds the HD and pcb in place, I think it's made from aluminium and the whole things is very flimsy meaning most of the ridged-ness comes from the casing itself. You will also notice the silicone/rubbery material, this protects the HD and the black plastic sheet stops connections on the pcb from shorting out. The top panel cannot be easily removed from the frame.
Alright, that's all the images I have for now. I thought that if I was going to take the unit(s) apart anway, I might as well share it with everyone. I didn't have time to mark all the locations for the screws, but I may get around to that later. I also have high-res versions, but i'll only post those if there's enough demand as I have limited bandwidth.
Hope that was useful, if not, interesting to some!
So, continuing from cykalan's thread, here's some more detailed images and useful tips on taking apart the HD3.
Basically, I wanted to swap the metal casing of the black with the silver. This was because the original silver unit had a scuffed case and the black unit was perfect apart from a busted screen. There's already pictures of many exterior shots in the original thread, so let's skip straight to the innards.
When sliding off the casing, you'll find a ribbon cable connecting the pcb to the front panel buttons, be careful not to tear this. Unlike most ribbon connectors, you simply flip up the terminal flap to "unclamp" the cable (see below). The acrylic/plastic screen on the front does not look like it can be easily removed, it's probably glued to the metal.
This is the second ribbon cable, this one is for the panel controls on the top of the player.
The left picture shows the ribbon from the top control panel. The right shows the side of the casing once the side plating has been removed.
The battery is actually smaller than those found in mobile phones, i'm amazed that it can actually power a mechanical drive.
The USB/power connection socket is covered by some metal plating, which comes off easily. It's actually easier to put on after the insides are slid back into the casing.
On the left is the bottom panel that houses the Hold and Battery buttons. Note the "fixtures" on the panel, this means you have to slide the panel to get it on or off the unit, do not just force it on or off. The picture on the right shows the side plating, socket plating and another piece of metal plating that screws onto the top left of the pcb (see below). I assume it has two main functions, a) to protect the HD ribbon cable and b) to secure the side plating once screwed in.
These are just shots to show how amazingly well thought out the HD3 is (in terms of build). The screws that are used are just to miniscule!
Here is the ribbon cable from the HD to the unit itself. The picture on the right shows that the EL panel (the "sheet" that lights up the screen) is actually soldered onto the pcb directly. This means that to remove the screen, soldering is required.
This is an overall shot of the front and back of the pcb attached to the HD.
A slightly closer shot of the front and back of the pcb. I would have taken off the screen to reveal chips and other goodies, but I'm just too lazy to break out the soldering iron. Yes, I know the screen is broken!
Finally, here's the "frame" that holds the HD and pcb in place, I think it's made from aluminium and the whole things is very flimsy meaning most of the ridged-ness comes from the casing itself. You will also notice the silicone/rubbery material, this protects the HD and the black plastic sheet stops connections on the pcb from shorting out. The top panel cannot be easily removed from the frame.
Alright, that's all the images I have for now. I thought that if I was going to take the unit(s) apart anway, I might as well share it with everyone. I didn't have time to mark all the locations for the screws, but I may get around to that later. I also have high-res versions, but i'll only post those if there's enough demand as I have limited bandwidth.
Hope that was useful, if not, interesting to some!
