[muckshot]

Well, as is often the case, just a week or so after the warranty period expired, my E2s stopped working properly--cable issue, again. My first pair were replaced by Shure a few months back after the left earbud cut out due to a break or something in the cable. I'm not hard on these things, I swear, but this is the second pair I've owned where the cable has wore down (inside) and eventually severed the connection to the bud for good.

So, has anyone recabled the Shure E2s, and come through it successfully?

I tried searching, but it didn't turn up anything obvious and the board removed the 'E2' bit from the search due to something or another, so that wasn't much help!

A E2 recable seems like it might be a tedious job, but instead of buying a new pair and then waiting in anticipation until the cable gives out yet again, I'm thinking of taking the first step, buying the goddam iron and DMM and just going for it. Sounds like a fun way to get an intro to electronics and would definitely save me from buying another E2!

...hmmmm, then perhaps a few custom cables...? then what....

 

[firefox360]

You're going to have a tuff time managing to split open those IEM's. The rest should be on the easy-mild side of things. Just keep the temperature low during the whole soldering process to prevent damage from occuring to your drivers. The person that you should talk to about this particular subject would be RnB180. I believe he's the only one to have ever recabled an IEM.

P.S. Make sure to go with a light and mildly thin cable, atleast up until the Y-split. It will be a lot easier to keep them on your ears than using thick gauge star quads (atleast terminating from the IEMs...)

 

[[AK]Zip]

I recabled a pair of ER4s and E2c before. I have to say the ER4S was harder to do.

I highly suggest you don't start DIY here.

-Alex-

 

[muckshot]

Quote:

Originally Posted by firefox360 You're going to have a tuff time managing to split open those IEM's. The rest should be on the easy-mild side of things. Just keep the temperature low during the whole soldering process to prevent damage from occuring to your drivers. The person that you should talk to about this particular subject would be RnB180. I believe he's the only one to have ever recabled an IEM.

My first pair of E2s split open on their own... maybe too much bass... heh

I was planning on buying a cheapo soldering iron to start off. Circuit City had one for about 20$ CDN that had two heat setting 15 & 30 watts (looks exactly like this one from ratshack). Would the lower setting be cool enough to do the job, or should I spring for one that has a fully adjustable temp?
Thanks for the HU on RnB180, if he/she doesn't happen to come across this thread myabe I'll hassle im' through PMs

Quote:

Originally Posted by firefox360 P.S. Make sure to go with a light and mildly thin cable, atleast up until the Y-split. It will be a lot easier to keep them on your ears than using thick gauge star quads (atleast terminating from the IEMs...)

Yeah, I was thinking about that, luckily I don't care how they'll look though so all I need is something that is appropriate for the job. Any suggestions?

Anyhow, many thanks for your input!

 

[muckshot]

Quote:

Originally Posted by [AK]Zip I recabled a pair of ER4s and E2c before. I have to say the ER4S was harder to do. (PIC SNIP!) I highly suggest you don't start DIY here. -Alex-

Nice job on the Etys, looking good. How did it affect the sound, if at all?

I appreciate your input and I'm not taking your suggestion too lightly, but really at this point I have little to lose. The E2s are of no use to me in their current state, so if I bungle the job at least I'll have some of the gear needed to try something else. I'm really looking for an excuse to get into DIY, maybe if I'm real lucky and real careful I will be able to breathe some new life into my E2s without soldering my hands together in the process

That said, you have any suggestions or pointers on the E2 recable process, or perhaps anything I absolutely must NOT do? Thanks.

 

[kramer5150]

I tried my e2c and failed. The driver solder pads are DIRECTLY on top of the coil lead-in wires. So ANY heat used to flow solder is directly conducted to the small lead- in wires. I used a small tipped 35W iron and melted the lead in wires. I have rewired/recable 5-6 cans, mostly koss, grado, and sony... so I was WELL aware of the dangers going into this, and used every measure possible to QUICKLY flow the solder and avoid building up too much heat. Yet still.... I cooked the tiny little wires.

IMHO a better way would be to re-cable at the "Y" junction, although it could yield less dramatic of an enhancement.

I disected my e2c a long time ago and posted pics on it... try the search tool.

IMHO youre better off with a portapro, KSC75 or SR60 as a starter DIY. The solder pads are very large and dissipate a lot of heat so it doesn't conduct through to the lead wires. The Koss cans have a lifetime warranty, just send them back to koss for a $6 replacement. If you mess up.
Garrett

 

[muckshot]

Quote:

Originally Posted by kramer5150 I tried my e2c and failed. The driver solder pads are DIRECTLY on top of the coil lead-in wires. So ANY heat used to flow solder is directly conducted to the small lead- in wires. I used a small tipped 35W iron and melted the lead in wires. I have rewired/recable 5-6 cans, mostly koss, grado, and sony... so I was WELL aware of the dangers going into this, and used every measure possible to QUICKLY flow the solder and avoid building up too much heat. Yet still.... I cooked the tiny little wires.

That's what I was worried about and given how little experience I've had soldering, I forsee some toasted E2s in my near future... luckily this expectation will lessen the blow if and when it happens. I figure as long as I don't physically injure myself in the process, I won't have lost much

That cheapo soldering iron I linked to a few posts back has a 15 watt power setting, so perhaps at that lower temp, there will be less of a chance of destroying the wires and coil... hope is a marvelous invention no?

Quote:

Originally Posted by kramer5150 IMHO a better way would be to re-cable at the "Y" junction, although it could yield less dramatic of an enhancement. I disected my e2c a long time ago and posted pics on it... try the search tool.

Y-junction recable: I was considering this option, or perhaps just removing the section of the cable that is giving me trouble and soldering it back together. I had figured I might as well go for the full recable while I'm at it, but perhaps I will reconsider now that I've read about your experiences.

E2 thread: My searches somehow failed me thus far, but knowing you posted to ought to help me considerably.

EDIT: Bingo! Looks like it's gonna be rough...

Quote:

Originally Posted by kramer5150 IMHO youre better off with a portapro, KSC75 or SR60 as a starter DIY. The solder pads are very large and dissipate a lot of heat so it doesn't conduct through to the lead wires. The Koss cans have a lifetime warranty, just send them back to koss for a $6 replacement. If you mess up. Garrett

I've been trying to convince my roommate to buy some KSC75s, and when he does I may also try to convince him of my presumed ability to do a recable job (he know the truth though so don;t worry). ATM my drive to go buy some started gear (iron, basic DMM, cardas solder etc) is to get these E2s up and running, perhaps if when that fails I will spend the measly 20 bones on some Koss offerings and take that on. I'm really looking forward to constructing some RCA interconnects for my stereo as a follow-up project.

Anyhow man, many thanks for all your suggestions!

--------------------------

Now, does anyone have a suggestion as to what brand/model of cable I could use? Something copper I guess, thin (since it will pass over my ears) and inexpensive? Is there anything useable at Ratshack/CC? (Hope! There it is again! Amazing invention indeed!!)

 

[muckshot]

No more takers on this? Perhaps what I'll do is simply cut out the section of cable that is giving me grief and solder it back together and cover up the mess with electrical tape, then it'll really have that poor man's DIY styling

 

[[AK]Zip]

Quote:

Originally Posted by muckshot No more takers on this? Perhaps what I'll do is simply cut out the section of cable that is giving me grief and solder it back together and cover up the mess with electrical tape, then it'll really have that poor man's DIY styling

First figure out where the break is. If the break is at the very end of the IEM then you more then likely won't just be able to do that. Also, don't assume the break is here or there. Actually test it. Good luck.

-Alex-

 

[silmaauki]

Quote:

Originally Posted by [AK]Zip I recabled a pair of ER4s and E2c before. I have to say the ER4S was harder to do.

Alex, I tried to use search but didn't find anything about ER4s recabling. The bottleneck for myself are the tiny connectors at the IEM end of the cable. Where did you get those?

 

[[AK]Zip]

Quote:

Originally Posted by silmaauki Alex, I tried to use search but didn't find anything about ER4s recabling. The bottleneck for myself are the tiny connectors at the IEM end of the cable. Where did you get those?

I did not post about it here. I made the connectors myself from scratch.

-Alex-

 

[muckshot]

Quote:

Originally Posted by [AK]Zip First figure out where the break is. If the break is at the very end of the IEM then you more then likely won't just be able to do that. Also, don't assume the break is here or there. Actually test it. Good luck. -Alex-

Thanks again for the help. The break/loose connection, as far as I can tell, is in the middle of the cable so it shouldn't be difficult to cut and resolder. Sorry if this is a dumb question, but is there a way to test the cable without cutting into it? If not, I'm not sure how I'm to locate the break as you suggest... I bought myself a basic DMM yesterday but I've no idea how to use it yet.