[khoihd]

Hi guys.
I'm selling my Gustard U16 as I have now an Audio-GD DI-20.

Maybe I could sell it for about $230/250 shipping included. If anyone is interested, send me a PM and I can ask for the specific shipping cost to confirm.

It's in mint condition.

Is the di-20 as warm and musical as the u16?

 

[FredA]

Is the di-20 as warm and musical as the u16?

I would say it sounds fuller. It stages better. Clear upgrade. I have heard both many times in my friend's setup. I have been able to compare the HE version in my own setup. The u16 is no competion.

 

[Fibre101]

I decided to downgrade my firmware today like I've done in the past and as I was upgrading, the u16 decided to disconnect and now my u16 doesnt work anymore. Not sure if anyone had this issue but my u16 does not connect to my pc and the display is blank. Is there a way to reset it or is it completely bricked? I've changed firmwares a number of times and this has never happened. The u16 is completely unusable.

 

[JaMo]

I decided to downgrade my firmware today like I've done in the past and as I was upgrading, the u16 decided to disconnect and now my u16 doesnt work anymore. Not sure if anyone had this issue but my u16 does not connect to my pc and the display is blank. Is there a way to reset it or is it completely bricked? I've changed firmwares a number of times and this has never happened. The u16 is completely unusable.

I am afraid You have bricked the device. Years back I did some recoveries of bricked DVD players after some testing of edited firmwares. Some of them worked fine but sometimes things went south.. The "unbricking" was done by first detecting/finding the serial interfaces (RX, TX, GND and +3.3V/+5V pins or holes) on the circuit board and then by establish a serial connection to the computer (PC). I am sure there are useful info out on the Internet about this. Today computers doesn't have those serial interfaces but USB-ports works fine with USB to serial adapters. The push-flash softwares was pretty primitive but worked.

I don't have the skills or the softwares left but I am sure a similar procedure could be done on the U16. If You are into these trials I can assure You that it is very rewarding to succeed and see a dead thing reborn and coming to life again.

You may have another option I think You should test as a first try. There is a switch on the circuit board that is marked with FW1-FW2. This switch is located between the optical input and the oscillators. (See picture, yellow ring down to the right)

I think You should cut the power to the U16, then open it and push this FW1-FW2 switch to its alternative position and try to power the device on again.

Good luck, fingers crossed.
/Jan

 

[Fibre101]

I am afraid You have bricked the device. Years back I did some recoveries of bricked DVD players after some testing of edited firmwares. Some of them worked fine but sometimes things went south.. The "unbricking" was done by first detecting/finding the serial interfaces (RX, TX, GND and +3.3V/+5V pins or holes) on the circuit board and then by establish a serial connection to the computer (PC). I am sure there are useful info out on the Internet about this. Today computers doesn't have those serial interfaces but USB-ports works fine with USB to serial adapters. The push-flash softwares was pretty primitive but worked.

I don't have the skills or the softwares left but I am sure a similar procedure could be done on the U16. If You are into these trials I can assure You that it is very rewarding to succeed and see a dead thing reborn and coming to life again.

You may have another option I think You should test as a first try. There is a switch on the circuit board that is marked with FW1-FW2. This switch is located between the optical input and the oscillators. (See picture, yellow ring down to the right)

I think You should cut the power to the U16, then open it and push this FW1-FW2 switch to its alternative position and try to power the device on again.

Good luck, fingers crossed.
/Jan

Wow. it actually works again. Thank you JaMo! Is the switch made for backup? Im assuming it is. I switched it to FW2 and it works perfectly again!

 

[JaMo]

Wow. it actually works again. Thank you JaMo! Is the switch made for backup? Im assuming it is. I switched it to FW2 and it works perfectly again!

I am glad it worked out for You. Congrats/J

 

[Metron]

So, after a few years on the market and 111 pages on Head-Fi, what's the verdict for U16 in regard to pops/clicks/interruptions on the audio signal? How often, under what circumstances and for which ports, and what's the cause? Yes, I know, U18 has replaced it, but if this is not resolved with U16, U18 is not to be trusted, especially since it's costing almost double.

 

[FredA]

So, after a few years on the market and 111 pages on Head-Fi, what's the verdict for U16 in regard to pops/clicks/interruptions on the audio signal? How often, under what circumstances and for which ports, and what's the cause? Yes, I know, U18 has replaced it, but if this is not resolved with U16, U18 is not to be trusted, especially since it's costing almost double.

It is solved with the u18. It is worth the extra money. The u16 is still a hit or miss.

 

[Metron]

It is solved with the u18. It is worth the extra money. The u16 is still a hit or miss.

I've read reports of the same problem with the U18 unit...

 

[FredA]

I've read reports of the same problem with the U18 unit...

Firsr time i hear this. Is this coming from the u18 thread?

Another option is the di20.

 

[Metron]

Firsr time i hear this. Is this coming from the u18 thread?

Another option is the di20.

That's right, it's making me nervous, the U18 is much more expensive. Alternative could be the Matrix X-SPDIF 2 or 3.

 

[FredA]

That's right, it's making me nervous, the U18 is much more expensive. Alternative could be the Matrix X-SPDIF 2 or 3.

The u18 and di20 likely better, soundwise. You can hookup an ext. clock too with either.

 

[Metron]

The u18 and di20 likely better, soundwise. You can hookup an ext. clock too with either.

I don't question Gustard DDCs' sound performance, I'm questioning their reliability and QC.
I'm not fimiliar with di20, what's the full maker and model name? Is it a DDC?

 

[FredA]

I don't question Gustard DDCs' sound performance, I'm questioning their reliability and QC.
I'm not fimiliar with di20, what's the full maker and model name? Is it a DDC?

Audio-gd Di-20. It is very stable and a great performer.

 

[Metron]

Audio-gd Di-20. It is very stable and a great performer.

Ah, OK, no thanks, that's a very expensive unit, more than double the U18's cost, we're reaching the stratosphere now...