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Gustard U12 USB Interface 8 Core XMOS chip
Aug 16, 2015 at 4:23 PM Post #2,206 of 3,700
rb2013 said:
  Ordered the Audio Breeze to give one a try.
 
Click to expand...

I would be interested in a comparison between this, the Gustard and the Melodious once you get it.
I like how Breeze Audio uses a complete separate 2 stage regulator for the crystals.
 
I also had the green panasonic caps in my older Breeze unit, on that one those caps did not measure too well for ESR and dissipation factor (D)  compared to the modern day stuff from Nichicon or Chemicon, for this type of application (highspeed digital) ,I look at the numbers above 10kHz
 
Aug 16, 2015 at 4:46 PM Post #2,207 of 3,700
b0bb said:
  I would be interested in a comparison between this, the Gustard and the Melodious once you get it.
I like how Breeze Audio uses a complete separate 2 stage regulator for the crystals.
 
I also had the green panasonic caps in my older Breeze unit, on that one those caps did not measure too well for ESR and dissipation factor (D)  compared to the modern day stuff from Nichicon or Chemicon, for this type of application (highspeed digital) ,I look at the numbers above 10kHz
Click to expand...


So that unit was a Breeze as well (see back about 100 pages ago), you had modded.  Interesting.
 
You are the pro on these circuit designs - can you elaborate a bit more on the separate 2 stage regulator for the crystals.  Is that the section of four green caps and the section with two green caps?  What do you think of swapping out the transformer for something better like an Amgis?  Looks like this one is a standard config vs the Gustard custom.
 
Once I get it, I'll be able to remove the boards and post better pics of each side.
 
Were those greenies marked as 'Master XPO' by any chance?  Well I'll give them a few hundred hrs then put in some nice Nichicon FG's or HW's.  But remove the Pannie's with care to remount if they are better by any chance.
 
PS Edit I found the page - 6! post #80.  Here is the post:
The independent power supply helps a lot because it is no longer dependent on the weak and noisy USB 5V supply, which can only supply up to 500mA of current, that can drop to 100mA in some cases.  
If you are interested in a better power supply consider replacing the power transformer, I have a similar unit based on the previous generation XMOS and it came with the green Bingzi transformer. I wanted something that was UL rated and replaced it with an Amgis/Alfamag, the bonus was it ran much cooler and the Alfamag was about 10% heavier (more copper in the windings)
Outside of the US, Talema is easier to find and a little cheaper.
 
I also installed ultra low jitter crystal XOs replacing the "Precision 0.1ppm" ones that it came with.
The Gustard looks like it has separate regulators for the XOs so it is probably worthwhile to put in a low jitter unit.
 
The last part is to replace some of the caps with Panasonic OSCONs and Nichicon FP Polymer caps.
The main rectifier filters  I used the Chemicon KZN. The KZN has 2x lower ESR than the supposedly Panasonic PX caps
(I think the PX are fakes)
 
Pictures of my unit.


 
 
Click to expand...

 
Here is the Audio Breeze that I just bought:

 
That's a picture of the Gustard U1O you had modded right?  Or the Audio Breeze?
 
I do see some similar (but not exact) design layout similarities...like the 2 stage filters.
 
I also noticed those LDO LT317's mounted on heat sinks.
 
Edit: BTW You did a sweet job mounting those Crysteks!  How did you do that so clean and neat?  Low temp soldering paste?
 
Aug 16, 2015 at 11:49 PM Post #2,208 of 3,700
rb2013 said:
 
- can you elaborate a bit more on the separate 2 stage regulator for the crystals.  Is that the section of four green caps and the section with two green caps? 
 
 
What do you think of swapping out the transformer for something better like an Amgis?  Looks like this one is a standard config vs the Gustard custom.
 
Once I get it, I'll be able to remove the boards and post better pics of each side.
 
Were those greenies marked as 'Master XPO' by any chance?  Well I'll give them a few hundred hrs then put in some nice Nichicon FG's or HW's.  But remove the Pannie's with care to remount if they are better by any chance.
 
 
That's a picture of the Gustard U1O you had modded right?  Or the Audio Breeze?
 
I do see some similar (but not exact) design layout similarities...like the 2 stage filters.
 
I also noticed those LDO LT317's mounted on heat sinks.
 
Edit: BTW You did a sweet job mounting those Crysteks!  How did you do that so clean and neat?  Low temp soldering paste?
Click to expand...

 
The 2 stage regulator is towards the top of the picture with the 2 caps, it keeps the power supply noise to a minimum, this is essential if any benefits of the low jitter Crystek XOs are to be realized.
 
The Amgis will work as it is the same foot print as the previous generation.
 
The green Panasonic caps that came with mine were the X-Pros, there is no information available from Panasonic directly, they are some sort of audio cap.
Audio caps are not really suitable for the digital circuits here, the Nichicon HW or the Panasonic FM is a better choice.
 
Here are a couple of pictures


 
My unit is a Breeze Audio.
 
The LT317A are a improved version of the standard 317 made by Linear Tech, it gets quite warm when running, suggest you keep an eye out on the temps of the new unit.
 
One of the Crysteks were soldered on using a fine tip iron and the other using  low-temp solder paste, the final finishing was done with a hot-air wand so the end results look almost identical. (The two crystals were done at different times)
 
Aug 17, 2015 at 7:07 PM Post #2,213 of 3,700
Just received my Forza Audio Works - FAW Copper Series Twin USB
http://forzaaudioworks.com/en/product.php?id_product=46
 
Sounds very nice - has a completely separate power line from the data line.  The MX-U8 works fine with just the data line and power left unplugged.
Needs a little more run time - but so far sweet, detailed , dynamic, awesome bass depth.  Looks like my Stilnote is going on the block.


I'm liking as much or even more then my 4 time more expensive Silnote Poseidon USB.  With the Gustard you have to get a linear ps or LiPo power feed to activate the internal switch.  But then it would be totally isolated from the PC's power and ground.
 
Aug 17, 2015 at 7:08 PM Post #2,214 of 3,700
b0bb said:
   
The 2 stage regulator is towards the top of the picture with the 2 caps, it keeps the power supply noise to a minimum, this is essential if any benefits of the low jitter Crystek XOs are to be realized.
 
The Amgis will work as it is the same foot print as the previous generation.
 
The green Panasonic caps that came with mine were the X-Pros, there is no information available from Panasonic directly, they are some sort of audio cap.
Audio caps are not really suitable for the digital circuits here, the Nichicon HW or the Panasonic FM is a better choice.
 
Here are a couple of pictures


 
My unit is a Breeze Audio.
 
The LT317A are a improved version of the standard 317 made by Linear Tech, it gets quite warm when running, suggest you keep an eye out on the temps of the new unit.
 
One of the Crysteks were soldered on using a fine tip iron and the other using  low-temp solder paste, the final finishing was done with a hot-air wand so the end results look almost identical. (The two crystals were done at different times)
Click to expand...


Thanks!  And recommedations on which paste?
 
Aug 17, 2015 at 11:27 PM Post #2,215 of 3,700
Just got the U12 today, which drivers to install...? Also how do I use this with foobar?
 
Aug 17, 2015 at 11:55 PM Post #2,216 of 3,700
rb2013 said:
 
Thanks!  And recommedations on which paste?
Click to expand...

a recommended paste, yes please
wink_face.gif
 
 
Aug 18, 2015 at 12:36 AM Post #2,219 of 3,700
rb2013 said:
 
Thanks!  And recommedations on which paste?
Click to expand...

http://www.chipquik.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=440001
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/SMDLTLFP/SMDLTLFP-ND/2682721
 
Chip quik low temp (138 degC) lead free
 
The last part is very important it has to be lead free as solder paste dries to a fine powder that could be inhaled or swallowed, big danger to kids and pets.
 
BTW It is either a soldering iron with conventional wire solder or  paste + hot air gun, heating paste with a soldering iron usually makes  a mess
 
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