Gustard DAC-A26 - AK4499EX DAC :: Impressions Thread
Mar 28, 2023 at 3:10 AM Post #571 of 1,056
I was looking for a good way to use the renderer in my A26. Currently it supports Roon RAAT, HQPlayer NAA and UPNP.

Mostly I stream via Qobuz and spin a CD occasionally. I have tried Qobuz via Roon and via HDPlayer and it works well, however I do not use the added features that those programs offer at the moment. Thus I was looking for a solution so that I can directly stream Qobuz with all resolutions from my IPAD to the A 26 renderer without having to have another server running.

When searching I stumbled on MConnect I installed it and connected it to my Qobuz description. It detected my A26 renderer directly and it plays beautifully at al resolutions that Qobuz has to offer. Also I like MConnect's interface. (link to product specs here )

It also support TiDAL and can stream directly from Cloud services such as Dropbox, OneDrive and iCloud.

I am very happy with this solution as I do not have to leave my PC running and I believe it is $7 one time purchase well spend on the app.

Sharing this on the forum as I can imagine others are looking for this type of solution as well. I have the A26 but I believe the R26 has the same renderer so it should work on that as well.
 
Mar 28, 2023 at 6:22 AM Post #572 of 1,056
Are you sure it isn't just confirmation bias? I really have an issue believing a fuse makes any difference.
I I haven't tried them myself but to me these seem like zero sum game, back to square one scenario.
People keep adding things that are supposed to improve SQ by at least 10%. Audiophile switches, $1000 cables, fuses, LPSes, DDCs, external clocks, DACs, Amps, interconnects, $1000s HPs/speakers and what not! All amounting to at least $10K. Going by end to end sequential increment, they should sound at least 100% better? But then listen through a decent dongle or cheap DAC/Amp like E50/A50s and it becomes difficult to differentiate the two systems or the expensive one seems about 10% better!
I think any change brings seeming change that almost always seems pleasing! Very few have there been cases where grand spends resulted in bad SQ!
In fact, I bought more than $100 cable and it sounded good. After that I changed it back to $1 cable and $1 cable sounded better! :deadhorse::L3000:
 
Mar 28, 2023 at 7:40 AM Post #573 of 1,056
I I haven't tried them myself but to me these seem like zero sum game, back to square one scenario.
People keep adding things that are supposed to improve SQ by at least 10%. Audiophile switches, $1000 cables, fuses, LPSes, DDCs, external clocks, DACs, Amps, interconnects, $1000s HPs/speakers and what not! All amounting to at least $10K. Going by end to end sequential increment, they should sound at least 100% better? But then listen through a decent dongle or cheap DAC/Amp like E50/A50s and it becomes difficult to differentiate the two systems or the expensive one seems about 10% better!
I think any change brings seeming change that almost always seems pleasing! Very few have there been cases where grand spends resulted in bad SQ!
In fact, I bought more than $100 cable and it sounded good. After that I changed it back to $1 cable and $1 cable sounded better! :deadhorse::L3000:
Just think of all the money you save !…..
 
Mar 30, 2023 at 1:32 AM Post #575 of 1,056
I I haven't tried them myself but to me these seem like zero sum game, back to square one scenario.
People keep adding things that are supposed to improve SQ by at least 10%. Audiophile switches, $1000 cables, fuses, LPSes, DDCs, external clocks, DACs, Amps, interconnects, $1000s HPs/speakers and what not! All amounting to at least $10K. Going by end to end sequential increment, they should sound at least 100% better? But then listen through a decent dongle or cheap DAC/Amp like E50/A50s and it becomes difficult to differentiate the two systems or the expensive one seems about 10% better!
I think any change brings seeming change that almost always seems pleasing! Very few have there been cases where grand spends resulted in bad SQ!
In fact, I bought more than $100 cable and it sounded good. After that I changed it back to $1 cable and $1 cable sounded better! :deadhorse::L3000:
It often is. It gets worse when other like minded people come together at your place and start to critique your rig and state stuff like..oh if you add this..change this etc...and that leads down the proverbial rabbit hole and.... I digress.

We are all in this hobby to find that magic fix that will give us that last 10% of improvement. But you dont need to spend $$$$ on these add ons. Just be ignorant and know that your system is at its best and enjoy the journey. I wish i could stick to those words...lol
 
Mar 30, 2023 at 7:24 AM Post #576 of 1,056
I don't! Still in search for THAT sound! :)
Vijay do you have a Gustard A-26 ? Of course most here are searching for THAT sound also it’s part of the fun in this hobby perhaps someone here can suggest something for you to try.
 
Apr 3, 2023 at 9:27 AM Post #580 of 1,056
No, not A26 but its in my wishlist. Hope to get audition first to pull the trigger.
The A-26 and R-26 are both exceptionally good for the money , come on back when you get a listen .
 
Apr 5, 2023 at 1:20 AM Post #582 of 1,056
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Apr 7, 2023 at 3:29 PM Post #583 of 1,056
Is there any direction while replacing the new fuse, like in battery + and - side.

Yes, if you’re using synergistic research fuses look at the fuse where it says SR on the label. The S side is the hot side of the fuse.

+ | <- SR -> | -

Turn off the powerswitch on the backside of the Gustard.

Take the fuse and fuseholder out.

Turn the powerswitch back on again with the fuse and fuseholder out.

* Disclaimer only follow the step below if you are sure you have the right tool.
Danger of electrocution!

Take a electric mains tester screwdriver and keep it agains one of the 2 internal clips inside the Gustard that normally hold/connects the fuse.

The one where the tester lights up is the hot side.

On mine the S side was pointing down and the R side up.
 

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Apr 7, 2023 at 4:16 PM Post #584 of 1,056
Yes, look at the fuse where it says SR on the label. The S side is the hot side of the fuse.

+ | <- SR -> | -

Turn off the powerswitch on the backside of the Gustard.

Take the fuse and fuseholder out.

Turn the powerswitch back on again with the fuse and fuseholder out.

* Disclaimer only follow the step below if you are sure you have the right tool.
Danger of electrocution!

Take a electric mains tester screwdriver and keep it agains one of the 2 internal clips inside the Gustard that normally hold/connects the fuse.

The one where the tester lights up is the hot side.

On mine the S side was pointing down and the R side up.
The "S" should be installed so it's positioned on the bottom vertically with the "R" towards the top of the unit.
Screen Shot 2022-12-30 at 8.22.43 PM.png
 

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