Going to make a Mini3 in a wood case - Which wood should we use?
Oct 21, 2008 at 7:17 PM Thread Starter Post #1 of 29

aphexii

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My dad and I are going to work on building a Hammond 1455C801 clone out of wood, more than likely using a 1/8" sheet. With the thickness of the wood, the case will end up slightly larger than the Hammond case in order to keep the inner dimensions the same, but not my much at all, maybe 1/4" or so in each direction.

My dad's been a woodworker for years now and said he wouldn't have any problem making it, even down to the screws to keep the front and back panels removable and the slot to hold the PCB.

So my question to you guys now, what wood should we make our first out of?

I swung by Woodcraft this morning and took a look at the different variants in person (though we will order online for price purposes). I was originally leaning Padauk, but Rosewood was stunning.

Padauk
06R83_230.jpg


Rosewood
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Quilted maple
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Aromatic cedar
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Cocobolo
838086_230.jpg


Bloodwood
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Bubinga
06R34_230.jpg
 
Oct 21, 2008 at 7:29 PM Post #3 of 29

aphexii

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Quote:

Originally Posted by -=Germania=- /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Quilted Maple gets my vote.

Maybe with a darker varnish?



The only downside to Quited Maple is that is about 3-4x as expensive as most of the other wood (unless we find a cheaper supplier). Then again, were talking a difference of $20 or so, so its not that big.

EDIT: I take that back, looks like Woodcraft themselves have it clearanced out on their site in the size that I need, $21 for a 1/8" x 5" x 24" cut, so its only about a $13 difference.
 
Oct 21, 2008 at 7:44 PM Post #5 of 29

pabbi1

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Search for 'thin lumber' on eBay - bloodwood or curly koa would get my vote, though I have a garage full of bocote, rosewood, mesquite, mahogany and some real exotics (afzala, tulip (NOT poplar) and ebony). i also really like pecan for boxes (light, strong), and elm for sound wood, like headphone cups.

You can also look at Cook Wood on eBay - just great stuff. There would be no finer statement than buckeye burl...
tongue_smile.gif


Check my sig for the SOHA II Hammond front panel in bocote.
 
Oct 21, 2008 at 7:49 PM Post #6 of 29

DaMnEd

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I like the Cocobolo exotic look
biggrin.gif
!
 
Oct 21, 2008 at 8:05 PM Post #7 of 29

xnothingpoetic

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Cocobolo is my favorite wood- but you really can't go wrong with any of your choices. You could pick from a hat and be more than happy with what you get.

What if you did a combo of two woods? Like a light wood for the front and back panels, and a dark wood for the body?
I don't know how it would look, but just thought i'd throw it out there.

Also, zebrawood would be baddass.
 
Oct 21, 2008 at 8:16 PM Post #8 of 29

aphexii

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Quote:

Originally Posted by pabbi1 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Search for 'thin lumber' on eBay - bloodwood or curly koa would get my vote, though I have a garage full of bocote, rosewood, mesquite, mahogany and some real exotics (afzala, tulip (NOT poplar) and ebony). i also really like pecan for boxes (light, strong), and elm for sound wood, like headphone cups.

You can also look at Cook Wood on eBay - just great stuff. There would be no finer statement than buckeye burl...
tongue_smile.gif


Check my sig for the SOHA II Hammond front panel in bocote.



Wow, looks nice!

I guess we can try and make both (entire case & just panels) and see which we prefer.
 
Oct 21, 2008 at 8:21 PM Post #9 of 29

kuroguy

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My vote goes for Bocote. The grain is highly figured and very tight. I used it for a front panel for an amp. It machines like plastic and finishes to almost a gloss finish very easily. Sand it to at least 1000 and oil it. You'll love it.

Bloodwood is a good choice if you want bright red. It is hard and machines about the same as Bocote.

Maple is cheap if you want to experiment and is fairly durable too. It can have some really nice grain too. look closely at the piece you want to use.

Padauk is nice but the grain is somewhat open which makes a good smooth finish very difficult. Don't get attached to the nice orange color either. It ages to a warm brown if you don't store it in a dark place.

Skip the Cedar. it is too soft and will get marred up easily.

Cocobolo - I love the orange/purple look and the grain. Unfortunately, me and many others are highly allergic to it. just a speck of sawdust and I itch for days. It wasn't always like that. I had no reaction to it the first 2 times I used it.
 
Oct 21, 2008 at 10:20 PM Post #13 of 29

BradJudy

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Quote:

Originally Posted by aphexii /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Actually, I'm brainstorming. Rather than an entire wood case, what about using the aluminum Hammond case and just making wood faceplates?


I did two like this, a headphone amp and a phono amp that used black Hammond cases and 1/4" cocobolo faceplates.

Edit: picture added

meta42b_front.JPG
 
Oct 21, 2008 at 10:44 PM Post #14 of 29

ruZZ.il

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keep in mind the PCB mount jacks and all. If the faceplate is too far, they wont serve their purpose properly. you could always go panel mount for the 2 jacks. the knob should be ok. the dc in should be ok with the right plug too. I did a hammond case with wood faceplates only a while ago (ok, it was ghetto but still). I really liked it and just left it as is.. and it was plywood! so I'm sure you'll like any good wood. I'd think that with the mini, since there ain't much faceplate, it may not have the same effect. I'd go all wood if I could chuck wood like a woodchuck could. I don't know too much about woods and all, but couldn't it be made out of a solid piece, with just a back plate or something?
 
Oct 21, 2008 at 11:39 PM Post #15 of 29

kuroguy

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I'd go for black aluminum with any dark or red wood. I'd use clear aluminum for maple.
 

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