gerG
Headphoneus Supremus
Abstract: I wanted a better cable for these phones, and the Clou Blue did not meet my expectations. I am getting better results (for my needs) by cutting the stock cable off at about 18 inches from the cans and adding a mini-plug connector. Using the shortened stock cable as a "leader" I can now swap cables and extensions to my heart's content.
Criteria:
I wanted to build my own cable, and to be able to easily switch between different length cables with different connectors for my various amps. In addition I will not tolerate loads induced to the cans through the cable interface. This is not only uncomfortable, but it puts strain on the connectors in the cans themselves.
Approach:
Since I have not been able to track down aftermarket connectors for the cable/can interface, I am stuck with plugs off the stock cable. Considering the nice integration to the plug and the flexibility of the stock cable, I decided to keep a minimal length of the stock cable as a leader. The tradeoff is sonic degradation vs comfort and mechanical integrity at the cans. I also wanted enough length to plug into an ipod in my shirt pocket without an extension (front routed) or to have the interface connector supported by a collar clip for back routing. I credit Don Wilson and my Etymotics for the latter inspiration. I elected to use a mini-plug due to the fact that numerous extension cables are available pre-terminated with minis. Fwiw I hate mini-plugs, but I can always change it later.
The mod:
This was pretty easy. I went to Radio Shack (because it was open) and picked up a gold plated, solderless male stereo mini-plug. I also grabbed a collar clip and their highest quality (snnnk J) mini-plug extension cable. Net investment was around $15. Next I disconnected the cable from the Sens and trimmed it off to about 20 inches. Use scissors. Common wire cutters won't go through the reinforcing (Kevlar?) strands that reside in the center of the wires. I left some extra leader because I already had a beer open and I was bound to screw up at lest once. I checked the connections in the plug to make sure I knew R and L. It typically is not what I think it is. The tip is left, middle is right, and the shaft/plug is ground. Next I slid the shell, strain relief spring, and insulation jacket onto the lead wire. Note that the strain relief spring is a snug fit (which is good) but the wire can be pushed through.
Stripping Sen-cable is relatively easy. Note that I am working with the more recent dual wire Sennheiser cable, and use Etymotic cable as my baseline for difficulty. The only trick is cleaning off the micro-insulation that they use. Guess what, it burns cleanly and easily (did I mention that I am a combustion engineer?). After stripping off the outer rubber insulation I use a torch type cigar lighter, isolate one of the wires, and pass the flame back and forth quickly over the wire a couple of times. Yellow flame is the insulation burning. Use the middle or base of the flame cone, otherwise you will get carbon or excessive oxidation. Don't overdo it! You want clean light copper, not red used penny copper. Too much heat will also make the wires brittle. It took me a few tries the first time that I did this, so you may want to practice on the unused part of the lead that you cut away (the part with the original plug).
Once the wires are stripped, STOP…make certain that the shell, strain spring, and the insulator are on the lead wire. Otherwise you are going to be very pissed off shortly. OK, now it is safe to loosen the screws on the "solderless" connector and attach the wires. Keep the kevlar core with the wires, since it will add strength. Patience, good lighting, tweezers, and reading glasses are helpful here. Once the wires are attached and the screws are snug (don't over-tighten) they can be soldered. Yes, that is right, I soldered the solderless connections! I was feeling rebellious! Actually I use these type of connectors because it makes soldering itty-bitty wires a cinch.
Next, I added some small pieces of shrink tubing to the thread side of the screws to keep them from shorting. Small pieces of wire insulation will also work. Also make sure that the ground strap is not touching either signal terminal. It is quite promiscuous in this regard. Next step is to slip on the insulator, and do a visual to make sure that nothing is shorting. Next the spring slides up to the shield, and then the shell threads on. Tres facile, non?
I added the collar clip to the wire just above the plug. I plug in the extension cable, don the phones from behind my head, clip the wire to the back of my collar, and plug into the nearest source. Sweet! Very comfy, with no dangling wire in front of me. Best of all, when I stand up and I accidentally have one foot on the cable it doesn't yank off my headphones, glasses, ears, and underwear! Oh come on, don't tell me that you have never done that!
Audible results:
I can't really hear a big difference, but I am using that RS cable. I think that I have at least 80% of the improvement of the Clou Blue cable, which was subtle at best (see below). I suspect that having 2 mini-plugs in the circuit can't be helping. Anybody know of a better plug to use? It needs to be light, since the whole plug assembly gets clipped to the back of my collar, and I would feel really stupid if I got choked to death by my own headphones.
What started this:
Please take the following as merely my opinion. Also realize that I am a picky engineering type who is overly sensitive to various mechanical issues. I purchased a Clou Blue cable the other day. I was not really impressed with the sound, and I found the mechanical interface to be unacceptable. All of the shrink tubing up to the plugs going into the cans reduces strain at the solder joints, but at the expense of increasing loads through the plugs and shifting the headphones every time I move. I also did not enjoy the adhesive/cohesive behavior of the jacketing. It sticks to everything, tugging even harder at my cans. As far as the sound goes, my expectations were probably too high. Also be aware that I had already shortened the factory cable, and permanently attached a 1/4" connector. This probably improved the sound of the factory cable so that I was not working to the true stock as a baseline. It may also be that my ears are not able to distinguish differences which others find significant. On the other hand I have a very high ideal, and the HD600s are not even close to getting me there. Small improvements don't offer a lot of value to me.
Conclusion:
Long winded explanation for such a simple mod. Next time I am just going to dump 10 meg of pictures on Jude's web server. If you made it through, congratulations on your intestinal fortitude! My HD600s are now more comfortable than ever, with no dangling cord sensation. They seem cordless, at least until I stand up and yank the amp off the rack. The sound may be slightly improved. I have opened up the options of cables that I can now use. Best of all I can now quickly A/B test cables by swapping a single plug.
Cheers
Criteria:
I wanted to build my own cable, and to be able to easily switch between different length cables with different connectors for my various amps. In addition I will not tolerate loads induced to the cans through the cable interface. This is not only uncomfortable, but it puts strain on the connectors in the cans themselves.
Approach:
Since I have not been able to track down aftermarket connectors for the cable/can interface, I am stuck with plugs off the stock cable. Considering the nice integration to the plug and the flexibility of the stock cable, I decided to keep a minimal length of the stock cable as a leader. The tradeoff is sonic degradation vs comfort and mechanical integrity at the cans. I also wanted enough length to plug into an ipod in my shirt pocket without an extension (front routed) or to have the interface connector supported by a collar clip for back routing. I credit Don Wilson and my Etymotics for the latter inspiration. I elected to use a mini-plug due to the fact that numerous extension cables are available pre-terminated with minis. Fwiw I hate mini-plugs, but I can always change it later.
The mod:
This was pretty easy. I went to Radio Shack (because it was open) and picked up a gold plated, solderless male stereo mini-plug. I also grabbed a collar clip and their highest quality (snnnk J) mini-plug extension cable. Net investment was around $15. Next I disconnected the cable from the Sens and trimmed it off to about 20 inches. Use scissors. Common wire cutters won't go through the reinforcing (Kevlar?) strands that reside in the center of the wires. I left some extra leader because I already had a beer open and I was bound to screw up at lest once. I checked the connections in the plug to make sure I knew R and L. It typically is not what I think it is. The tip is left, middle is right, and the shaft/plug is ground. Next I slid the shell, strain relief spring, and insulation jacket onto the lead wire. Note that the strain relief spring is a snug fit (which is good) but the wire can be pushed through.
Stripping Sen-cable is relatively easy. Note that I am working with the more recent dual wire Sennheiser cable, and use Etymotic cable as my baseline for difficulty. The only trick is cleaning off the micro-insulation that they use. Guess what, it burns cleanly and easily (did I mention that I am a combustion engineer?). After stripping off the outer rubber insulation I use a torch type cigar lighter, isolate one of the wires, and pass the flame back and forth quickly over the wire a couple of times. Yellow flame is the insulation burning. Use the middle or base of the flame cone, otherwise you will get carbon or excessive oxidation. Don't overdo it! You want clean light copper, not red used penny copper. Too much heat will also make the wires brittle. It took me a few tries the first time that I did this, so you may want to practice on the unused part of the lead that you cut away (the part with the original plug).
Once the wires are stripped, STOP…make certain that the shell, strain spring, and the insulator are on the lead wire. Otherwise you are going to be very pissed off shortly. OK, now it is safe to loosen the screws on the "solderless" connector and attach the wires. Keep the kevlar core with the wires, since it will add strength. Patience, good lighting, tweezers, and reading glasses are helpful here. Once the wires are attached and the screws are snug (don't over-tighten) they can be soldered. Yes, that is right, I soldered the solderless connections! I was feeling rebellious! Actually I use these type of connectors because it makes soldering itty-bitty wires a cinch.
Next, I added some small pieces of shrink tubing to the thread side of the screws to keep them from shorting. Small pieces of wire insulation will also work. Also make sure that the ground strap is not touching either signal terminal. It is quite promiscuous in this regard. Next step is to slip on the insulator, and do a visual to make sure that nothing is shorting. Next the spring slides up to the shield, and then the shell threads on. Tres facile, non?
I added the collar clip to the wire just above the plug. I plug in the extension cable, don the phones from behind my head, clip the wire to the back of my collar, and plug into the nearest source. Sweet! Very comfy, with no dangling wire in front of me. Best of all, when I stand up and I accidentally have one foot on the cable it doesn't yank off my headphones, glasses, ears, and underwear! Oh come on, don't tell me that you have never done that!
Audible results:
I can't really hear a big difference, but I am using that RS cable. I think that I have at least 80% of the improvement of the Clou Blue cable, which was subtle at best (see below). I suspect that having 2 mini-plugs in the circuit can't be helping. Anybody know of a better plug to use? It needs to be light, since the whole plug assembly gets clipped to the back of my collar, and I would feel really stupid if I got choked to death by my own headphones.
What started this:
Please take the following as merely my opinion. Also realize that I am a picky engineering type who is overly sensitive to various mechanical issues. I purchased a Clou Blue cable the other day. I was not really impressed with the sound, and I found the mechanical interface to be unacceptable. All of the shrink tubing up to the plugs going into the cans reduces strain at the solder joints, but at the expense of increasing loads through the plugs and shifting the headphones every time I move. I also did not enjoy the adhesive/cohesive behavior of the jacketing. It sticks to everything, tugging even harder at my cans. As far as the sound goes, my expectations were probably too high. Also be aware that I had already shortened the factory cable, and permanently attached a 1/4" connector. This probably improved the sound of the factory cable so that I was not working to the true stock as a baseline. It may also be that my ears are not able to distinguish differences which others find significant. On the other hand I have a very high ideal, and the HD600s are not even close to getting me there. Small improvements don't offer a lot of value to me.
Conclusion:
Long winded explanation for such a simple mod. Next time I am just going to dump 10 meg of pictures on Jude's web server. If you made it through, congratulations on your intestinal fortitude! My HD600s are now more comfortable than ever, with no dangling cord sensation. They seem cordless, at least until I stand up and yank the amp off the rack. The sound may be slightly improved. I have opened up the options of cables that I can now use. Best of all I can now quickly A/B test cables by swapping a single plug.
Cheers
