Gamma-2 (γ2) DAC Thread
Jan 20, 2010 at 8:36 PM Post #1,291 of 2,154
Quote:

Originally Posted by fishski13 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
i decided to hook up my DAC1 for some comparisons. i've owned the DAC1 for 3 years now. i also know that a lot of people dislike it, saying it's cold, sterile, and lifeless. i've never felt the DAC1 was a limiting component with my M3 or Bijou - the combos sound great. listening via the B22 seeded an itch to scratch though...

o.k. i don't DBT and ABXYZ or whatever they're called, but did roughly volume match with my Rat Shack analog SLM. i spent a few hours last night and today switching back and forth between the two DACs and my Pioneer and Oppo DVD players as transports, with the B22 and DT990/600ohm downstream.

keeping in mind that we have different tastes and listening habits, i prefer my hifi to reproduce the performance with prescence and drama. "hi-fi" artifacts like soundstaging, imagining, air etc are all subservient to the music. is it too much to ask for tone and timbre as well?

with the B22/DT990, the DAC1 is in comparison to the y-2:
-cooler, brighter, and analytical sounding.
-tonally, everything sounds a bit white and dry colored, with a focus on the treble and a sense of airiness. the y-2 has a wider tonal palatte and a very black background.
-dynamics are subdued but can be acceptable with a higher SPL.
-with volume matching, i had to crank the volume a bit more to get the front row perspective that the y-2 offers.
-as far as resolving power goes, i guess they're about equal, but would give the nod to the y-2 as it offers a more front row presentation and more presence. if treble is your bag, then you might disagree. i personally find the DAC1's treble hyped.
-musically, the DAC1 can be hit or miss with the B22/DT990. however, the y-2 doesn't dick around and gets to the meat on the bone. where a note on the DAC1 kind of fades away into nothing, there's a definite sonic envelope with the y-2. the beat can ebb and flow like a fine analog source, and i can say i don't miss my Basis TT anymore.

long story short, i prefer the y-2. thanks for putting up with my prose, but i should get some credo for using the pro-audio term "hyped".

i think the DAC1 is a huge bargain and when paired properly, it's a lovely component. as much as it sounds like i'm slagging off the DAC1, i'm keeping it. it offers a different perspective that i want to have around. i love the Swiss Army knife appeal of it as well, offering balanced, pre vs. calibrated outputs, and an HP amp.

a HUGE thanks to Ti and Marshall
beerchug.gif
!!!



You should post this in the y2 dedicated impressions thread. Good read. Earlier in this thread pixeljedi said the y2 sounded very similar to the PS Audio DLIII+Stage IV Cullen Mod in terms of performance. Considering that DAC+upgrade costs $1300 USD, I think it speaks volumes of the y2.
Source: http://www.head-fi.org/forums/6166747-post993.html

That DAC has also been compared to the DAC1 and I've seen multiple accounts of owners of both who strongly preferred the PS Audio III+Cullen IV, so your impressions match what I've seen posted elsewhere.
Source: http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr...gtl&1226448556
 
Jan 20, 2010 at 11:39 PM Post #1,292 of 2,154
Jan 21, 2010 at 1:23 PM Post #1,296 of 2,154
Quote:

Originally Posted by MisterX /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Yes. The difference is the packaging.
("VR" code is for large tape reel packaging, "VT" code is for small tape and reel packaging)



Yes, the difference is the packaging again.
("RV" code is for reel packaging, "V" code is for tube packaging)


Yes.
(the "G4" code allows you to purchase guaranteed Pb free parts when there are legacy parts in the supply chain (that may not be Pb free))



You will only need the 470uF caps if you are planning on driving the phones without an amp.



No.
And there is no dis-advantage to using the 470uF caps either.
wink.gif



I will use OPA2365 with 470uF for both my phones and amp then
Thank you~
 
Jan 21, 2010 at 5:36 PM Post #1,297 of 2,154
A few questions:

I am planning building a y1+y2, y1 configured for input only, so no dac or digital outputs on the y1 board.

I read through amb's website and couldn't find what parts associated with the y1's dac can be ommited.

Also, since local LDO regulators are use, does it make sence to use the o11 to power these, as compared to an o25? Cost will increase quite a bit, so I'm not sure its worthiness.

Thanks in advance!

Manuel
 
Jan 21, 2010 at 5:52 PM Post #1,298 of 2,154
Quote:

Originally Posted by MASantos /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I read through amb's website and couldn't find what parts associated with the y1's dac can be ommited.

Also, since local LDO regulators are use, does it make sence to use the o11 to power these, as compared to an o25? Cost will increase quite a bit, so I'm not sure its worthiness.

Thanks in advance!

Manuel



Look on the parts list for the Gamma1. There are different configurations A-F depending on what you want to leave out.

Three-pin regulators do not do a very good job handling high frequency noise, so you could probably improve on that with the Sigma11. I won't get into the question of whether or not that will make an audible difference to you
wink.gif
 
Jan 21, 2010 at 10:27 PM Post #1,299 of 2,154
Quote:

Originally Posted by MASantos /img/forum/go_quote.gif
A few questions:
...Also, since local LDO regulators are use, does it make sence to use the o11 to power these, as compared to an o25? Cost will increase quite a bit, so I'm not sure its worthiness.

Thanks in advance!

Manuel



You can build a Sigma-11 if you want an "overkill" PSU for your y2. The Sigma-25 measures almost identical to it though and costs a lot less.
 
Jan 22, 2010 at 4:07 AM Post #1,300 of 2,154
i'm still having intermittent problems. i had the y-2 shut down on me twice today. the switch turns from normal green to a very dim red.

i re-ohmed everything out on the y-2 board. there are no solder bridges on any legs of the SMDs and i reflowed all through holes. i also double checked every component for correct values and placement.

i'm currently going through the same process on the y-1 board
angry_face.gif
.

btw, i found X1 SMD to be difficult to solder and reflowed this as well.
 
Jan 22, 2010 at 4:25 AM Post #1,301 of 2,154
Quote:

the switch turns from normal green to a very dim red.


As compared to bright red when there is no signal?
(I would monitor the supply voltage and see if it droops or if there is any other weirdness when the DAC does that)

Quote:

i found X1 SMD to be difficult to solder


My method for soldering X1 (on the Y2 board) is to coat the pads on the part with solder first.
Then just flux the board, place the part, touch the iron to the pads, watch for the solder to flow and you're done.
It's a lot easier then trying to get the solder to wick between the board and pads or piling it up on the outer portion of pads on the crystal.
wink.gif
 
Jan 22, 2010 at 4:44 AM Post #1,302 of 2,154
Quote:

Originally Posted by MisterX /img/forum/go_quote.gif
As compared to bright red when there is no signal?
(I would monitor the supply voltage and see if it droops or if there is any other weirdness when the DAC does that)


My method for soldering X1 (on the Y2 board) is to coat the pads on the part with solder first.
Then just flux the board, place the part, touch the iron to the pads, watch for the solder to flow and you're done.
It's a lot easier then trying to get the solder to wick between the board and pads or piling it up on the outer portion of pads on the crystal.
wink.gif



thanks! i can only assume X1 is working properly.

the red is much dimmer than normal bright red when no signal.

btw, i'm using an o-11 for PS.
 
Jan 22, 2010 at 5:01 AM Post #1,303 of 2,154
In order to narrow down the possible sources I'd suggest running the DAC from usb power and see if the problem still occurs.

EDIT I forgot to ask: When the problem occurs how do you get the DAC working again? Do you unplug the power cable from the y2 or do you turn the power supply on and off?
 
Jan 22, 2010 at 5:10 AM Post #1,304 of 2,154
Quote:

Originally Posted by rds /img/forum/go_quote.gif
In order to narrow down the possible sources I'd suggest running the DAC from usb power and see if the problem still occurs.


good call - i didn't think about that. right now i'm taking a break and listening to the y-1 only to help isolate where the problem lies. so far no drop-outs or freezing.
 
Jan 22, 2010 at 5:20 AM Post #1,305 of 2,154
Quote:

Originally Posted by rds /img/forum/go_quote.gif

EDIT I forgot to ask: When the problem occurs how do you get the DAC working again? Do you unplug the power cable from the y2 or do you turn the power supply on and off?



i turn off the o-11. i don't power down the cd player either.
 

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