[hedmaster]

Quote:

Originally Posted by pixeljedi /img/forum/go_quote.gif I believe mine was around $205 (incl shipping from 5 different places). Not including faceplates, I'm doing those myself.

Quote:

Originally Posted by digger945 /img/forum/go_quote.gif First thing I do is to print out the BOM from Amb.org to use as reference and to cross of the parts as they are ordered, and also to check the parts when they arrive. I also use this list to mark off parts as they are installed, and to cross off parts that are not necessary for my particular build. When it comes time to order, open up Mouser in one tab, Digikey in another tab, Amb.org in another tab and copy and paste the part numbers from Amb.org to the part search box on Mouser or Digikey one at a time. Doesn't take long. Marking the parts off on the list printed first allows me to be interrupted and then resume where I left off later. Doing one part at a time allows you to deal with "out of stock" parts as they are discovered.

Pixeljedi, thanks, that helps a great deal on planning!

digger945, very good info.! That is a great idea(s). Organizing and ordering in that way will help me a whole bunch. I have the hardest time setting up my BOM with the different stores, then the boutiques, oos, etc.
I think your ideas will minimize my confusion, lol!

Thank you both for the quick responses.

 

[hedmaster]

Oh, I also wanted to ask for comparisons to the Keces 131 MKII DAC which I recently purchased.

I have read some of the thread, but not all, I must admit. Forgive me if it is already in there, but I didn't see it.

I did see someone mention that it could be a contender with the OPUS DAC. Are there any thoughts on that?

I know it is very subjective. I would define better as cleaner, more detail oriented, with nice bass extension, sparkley highs w/ out harshness, and little to no roll off on either end. Basically transparent, and musical, if that's possible, lol!

Thanks again guys, this is really going to help me to plan for this build in Nov., if all goes according to plan.

Blessings to all of you,
Matt

 

[dg3f]

mr.amb:

the 4.5v ldo are out of stock here,can i replace it with 3.3v ldo ? will this change introduce some kind of distortion?

i used wm8740 in my implement

thanks

 

[4season]

Hello, hoping that there's an easy fix here...

Just completed the Gamma 1 + 2 last night, inspected the connections w/a microscope, did preliminary checks and found no short circuits, and reflowed a few suspect connections. Gamma 1 seems to work fine via SPDIF (I have not yet tried optical or USB). Gamma 2 seems to be totally dead. Also, if I switch Anti-Clipping to "off", the light goes from green to red.

I did voltage checks on both Y1 and Y2 and all looks pretty good to me: 4.5V test points measure closer to 4.7, but otherwise, about what I'd expect.

Y1 is configured as "Full" or "+++" (what's the diff?) and 470uf output caps. SPDIF jumper is shorted, all others are open.

Y2 has the upsampling chip and all default ICs save for the opamp, where I used the alternate chip + 22uf output caps. No jumpers and no U6.

Power is via 5v 800mA Motorola cell phone charger which measures ~5.2v, no-load.

 

[m1abrams]

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4season /img/forum/go_quote.gif Hello, hoping that there's an easy fix here... Just completed the Gamma 1 + 2 last night, inspected the connections w/a microscope, did preliminary checks and found no short circuits, and reflowed a few suspect connections. Gamma 1 seems to work fine via SPDIF (I have not yet tried optical or USB). Gamma 2 seems to be totally dead. Also, if I switch Anti-Clipping to "off", the light goes from green to red. I did voltage checks on both Y1 and Y2 and all looks pretty good to me: 4.5V test points measure closer to 4.7, but otherwise, about what I'd expect. Y1 is configured as "Full" or "+++" (what's the diff?) and 470uf output caps. SPDIF jumper is shorted, all others are open. Y2 has the upsampling chip and all default ICs save for the opamp, where I used the alternate chip + 22uf output caps. No jumpers and no U6. Power is via 5v 800mA Motorola cell phone charger which measures ~5.2v, no-load.

Well since you have done a visual inspection, I would probe out all the connections to make sure you have a good connection where you should and no connection where you shouldn't. So using the schematic test from the top of the chip pins to the next component they should connect to on the board.

NOTE: I had a similiar issue however did not have the Anti-Clipping symptom you mention. My issue was my SMD crystal apparently had a poor solder joint and reflowing it solved my problem. Since that is an easy thing to try, I would try that first.

 

[amb]

dg3f, while 3.3V is at the very bottom of WM8740's recommended operating voltage range, it is outside of γ2's designed range. Using a 3.3V regulator for the analog supply will cause clipping. There are several options for the 4.5V/4.75V regulator. Are they ALL out of stock?

4season, it's very odd that γ2 anti-clipping switch would affect the γ1 CS8416's operation (the green/red LED indication is derived from the CS8416's pins). Check to make sure all the γ2 parts are mounted in the correct orientation, especially the ASRC and DAC chips, and the oscillator.

 

[digger945]

Quote:

Originally Posted by hedmaster /img/forum/go_quote.gif digger945, very good info.!

I'de like to add one more thing. If you take a few days or even a few hours to build an order with Mouser or Digikey, before you click on the "place order" button, go over the entire list one more time to make sure that nothing you have selected has suddenly been backordered. This has happened to me more than once in the past. Saves you time and trouble and allows you to find a suitable replacement before ordering.

 

[Billyk]

I like to use the Project Manager and the BOM import tools, they really make your life easier.

 

[hedmaster]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Billyk /img/forum/go_quote.gif I like to use the Project Manager and the BOM import tools, they really make your life easier.

I tried that, but I couldn't get it to work for some reason.

I will have to try it again. As I recall, it needs to be put into excel first?

Thanks for the help,
Matt

 

[Billyk]

The Project Manager and The BOM import are independent but can be used together. They are not the most intuitive things but easy enough to get used to. For the BOM import tool you only need a text file with the part number the pipe symbol (shifted backslash usually found above the enter key) and then the quantity, Excel not required.

 

[hedmaster]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Billyk /img/forum/go_quote.gif The Project Manager and The BOM import are independent but can be used together. They are not the most intuitive things but easy enough to get used to. For the BOM import tool you only need a text file with the part number the pipe symbol (shifted backslash usually found above the enter key) and then the quantity, Excel not required.

Thanks BillyK, you are the man! Wow, does that ever help! I was trying to figure out the BOM for the Millet Max a while back. Between all the boutique possibilities, the different vendors, and the oos, I was losing my mind.

Now, it should be a piece of cake!

Thanks again BillyK,
Matt

 

[4season]

Touched up every single solder joint on the Y2, and now the anti-clipping switch doesn't cause the light to go red anymore.

Still no output from the Y2 though, so I dug out my 100 mhz oscilloscope to see what, if anything, it might tell me. Feeding it signal via the SPDIF coax input.

X1: I see a pretty nice square wave there.
R1: Poking around here, I see what looks like signal and clock.
U3: Delivers a brief burst of 3V at power-up.
R2: Pretty much flatlined here.

Would I be right in thinking that the ASRC is likely the problem? And is it kosher for me to remove the ASRC and temporarily jumper around it while leaving U3, X1 et al in place?

 

[amb]

If you remove the ASRC and jumper around it, you'll also need to remove X1.

 

[mattcalf]

I'm very interested in a γ2 and am wondering what the benefits of the γ1 full++ will have over the γ1 full. I know it's the USB-to-S/PDIF converter, however, but will it affect what functions will I lose on the γ2 if I don't go ++?

Also if anyone could let me know of the rough extra cost of ++ I'd be looking at that'd be great!

EDIT: I'm ordering from Mouser and once you get over AU$200 worth of stock you end up with free postage, a saving of US$40 (alot).
I'm need to spend another AU$11.50 (buying a proper solder station) so I'm wondering what I should purchase to get to the $200 mark. Whether it be an appropriate new solder tip or some components that are prone to being easy to break/fry that I should get a few just in case?

Thanks again,
Matt.

 

[sergery]

Quote:

Originally Posted by mattcalf /img/forum/go_quote.gif I'm very interested in a γ2 and am wondering what the benefits of the γ1 full++ will have over the γ1 full. I know it's the USB-to-S/PDIF converter, however, but will it affect what functions will I lose on the γ2 if I don't go ++? Also if anyone could let me know of the rough extra cost of ++ I'd be looking at that'd be great!

Like you say, the main difference in functionality is the added USB-to-S/PDIF converter. This won't affect the γ2, it will run while the γ2 is running. The other difference is the specified case, but if you are planning on a γ2 it is the same so this point is moot.

Difference in cost will be due to a few parts including optical transmitter, RCA jack, pulse transformer, couple resistors and capacitors. ~5-10$