Front Panel Express help - neutrik locking jacks

[el_matt0]

Hey guys, got a question for all of you FPE experts out there

. I'm wondering if someone might be so kind as to explain how I'd set up a front panel (say 4mm or so) with one of those neutrik locking 1/4 jacks (one like shown below

) set-in / fastened from "behind" rather than simply just drilling a circular hole of the appropriate diameter and plunking it in from the front, so that the entire square "bezel" is exposed from the front. I'm almost positive that I've seen a good number of DIY builds around here in the past where people have set them in from behind with a cleverly designed panel, so that just the jack and the locking tab are exposed from the front, with countersunk screws that would sit flush with the front panel (square bezel of the neutrik is "behind" the panel, adjacent to the nuts holding it in place). Can anyone give me some help on how this is done, or better yet if someone has a spare FPE file with this done, please PM me and I can "steal" it

). I couldn't even find those pictures I was referring to where I've seen it done, if anyone knows, please shout. Thanks for any help!

 

[el_matt0]

i guess its kind of just a simple matter of "cutting" a hole from the front to the right size and shape exactly, and then setting a square inlay from the back at the appropriate depth? I was only vaguely recall seeing someone had done this but had somewhat of a gradual indentation so that the locking button was easier to access...but i could be mistaken. If I simply cut out the right shape (a circle with a little square notch on top) and have it sit flush with the front panel, will I be able to access that push button to release it easily enough?

FYI im referinng to something like this - on the left (but with a different jack)

 

[MrMajestic2]

I did it with my millet Max. PM me your email and Ill send it to you when I get home.

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/3853649-post3021.html

 

[steinba]

Sorry for being off topic, but HOLY C¤#P, that's a sweet looking amp! Congratulations on it.

 

[amb]

I believe the Neutrik locking jack needs the same panel cutouts as an XLR jack. Front Panel Designer has some macros for such a thing (it's basically a grouped object including all the needed holes already set to their correct positions). Just select "Insert -> Macro object -> XLR jack" and you'll find them. There are a few different ones, make sure you pick the right one. Check the datasheet dimensional drawing of the Neutrik jack and compare.

Other than that, there is no difference between front-mount and rear-mount. If the panel is too thick, you'll need to add a cavity to the back side so that the "nose" of the jack will still protrude far enough out the front side to allow the unlock lever to be fully-depressed.

If you want to use flat-head screws in a rear-mount configuration, then you'll need to countersink their panel holes.

 

[MrMajestic2]

Quote:

Originally Posted by steinba /img/forum/go_quote.gif Sorry for being off topic, but HOLY C¤#P, that's a sweet looking amp! Congratulations on it.

Thank you

 

[MrMajestic2]

Quote:

Originally Posted by amb /img/forum/go_quote.gif I believe the Neutrik locking jack needs the same panel cutouts as an XLR jack. Front Panel Designer has some macros for such a thing (it's basically a grouped object including all the needed holes already set to their correct positions). Just select "Insert -> Macro object -> XLR jack" and you'll find them. There are a few different ones, make sure you pick the right one. Check the datasheet dimensional drawing of the Neutrik jack and compare. Other than that, there is no difference between front-mount and rear-mount. If the panel is too thick, you'll need to add a cavity to the back side so that the "nose" of the jack will still protrude far enough out the front side to allow the unlock lever to be fully-depressed. If you want to use flat-head screws in a rear-mount configuration, then you'll need to countersink their panel holes.

On a 4" panel you have to recess it from the back, otherwise the locking button wont work. I did my cavity the same size as the D-Shell of the Neutrik and that was too tight for comfort. I had to assemble the jack on the panel because it wouldnt fit otherwise. I would make it larger next time.

 

[JamesL]

If you want to use the Neutrik XLR/Phono combo jack, the FPE software has a macro object for the exact dimensions.

The extruded circular/exposed area is 7mm in depth I believe, so it will work nicely with the 4mm panels. I think the phono-only jack is.. only like 3mm in depth, is it? So you'll need to carve out a square cavity on the back of the panel, or use a thinner panel.

Last I checked, the Neutrik website had spec-sheets with the dimensions for both of these connectors.

 

[n_maher]

I'm sorry, but I have to put forth the dissenting opinion - why use the locking jack? Personally, I have a pretty strong dislike for them and can't think of a good use for them. Me, I'd rather yank the headphones out than yank the amp off onto the floor or damage the headphone cable.

 

[rds]

The idea is usually to prevent you from frying the buffer transistors. Other than that, it's so your guitar stays plugged in while you move around.

 

[synaesthetic]

Quote:

Originally Posted by n_maher /img/forum/go_quote.gif I'm sorry, but I have to put forth the dissenting opinion - why use the locking jack? Personally, I have a pretty strong dislike for them and can't think of a good use for them. Me, I'd rather yank the headphones out than yank the amp off onto the floor or damage the headphone cable.

What he said.

They're also hideously ugly. >.>

 

[Ech0]

They look much better mounted from the back like on MrMajestic2's amp.

You can always remove the locking mechanism if you like the look.

 

[JamesL]

Neutrik actually manufactures the combo jacks without the locking mechanism, and mb3k features a page on modding the 1/4" jacks to remove the locking mechanism.