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FrankenZERO - A bang for buck exploration with a DIY Heart !
Mar 11, 2009 at 4:06 AM Post #346 of 428
Peete, you'd be happy or horrified to know that I've not slept since my last post. I've been suckling on Frankies lactating sonic mamaries ever since, taking quick 30 minutes here and there to freshen up, but, now I finally must get some rest or I will become looney. As evidenced by my previous and soon to be censored comment. It's been like errr 24 hour listening marathon, my ears and brain are mush.... thank god I listen at low volumes (~65 DB) or else I'd be deaf by now.

I hope I don't get any of electronic gremlins in the future, all I gotta worry about is the residual resin eating away at my board. I made the mistake of removing the only 4 caps in stage 2 that did not need to be removed. I realized that they (the red caps) only needed to be PIO'd. I then put the caps back in and lifted a pad while bending a PIO leg back to the board, (Hommer Simpson moment) now that one solder joint is brittle, and I don't want to compromise the joint by tooling with a tooth brush around that delicate area. Oh well....... cheers to great audio while it lasts, transience is beautiful!!

Viva la Frankie!!!!
 
Mar 12, 2009 at 4:51 PM Post #347 of 428
Quote:

Originally Posted by Pricklely Peete /img/forum/go_quote.gif
It looks like the diodes were bridged somehow (by the burn pattern on the pcb). Was there any stray solder between the two before you powered it up ?

Check to make sure all the diodes and the mains filter caps are correctly oriented (especially the 2 large caps). I just compared my board with yours and you have the diodes in that section oriented correctly. Double check the bypass caps leads and installation points again to see if any short was caused.

Hopefully this can be narrowed down but you may have cooked your main board with the repeated power ups. You see smoke don't fire it up again until the fault can found and corrected. I know, hindsight is 20/20 and that doesn't help you now. There are so many possibilities for why it's hard to know where to start. Take your DMM and see if the 2 sections are permanently bridged with a continuity check. You don't need to power up the Zero again to do that. If they are bridged the mainboard is toast.

Peete.



Hi Peete,

everything is orientated correctly.
There is no short at the bypass caps leads.
The 2 sections aren't bridged. All the leads around that area seem to be ok.
No shorts or disconnections where they shouldn't be.





If you need more pictures, tell me.
I made a bunch, but they're just to big to upload them all.
Have to take new ones as well, because I resoldered some spots that looked funny.

The resistance between the connections of the coaxial input measures 75Ohms. That should be ok, right?
Coaxial ground is connected to chassis ground because of the bnc connector.
Is that a problem?

The thing that puzzles me...
Saturday evening: everything works fine.
Sunday morning: smoke, but only after switching from optical to coaxial
And I didn't do anything to it in the meantime.

Last powerup on monday: nothing irregular, but smoke after switching from optical to coaxial


I'm going to change the pot now.
Hope, I'm going to need it soon.
 
Mar 13, 2009 at 7:26 PM Post #348 of 428
Hi,

should the points in those blue circles be connected?
Upper and mid circle are, but right now there is no connection to the burnt pad in the bottom circle.
Since the board is pretty much burnt, I'm not sure if there's supposed to be a connection. It would connect the 3rd and 4th pin on the CCON5...





Can I replace the UF4997 with HER108?
Datasheet
Can I replace just the 2 diodes or would I have to change those 4 or even all of them?
 
Mar 13, 2009 at 7:38 PM Post #349 of 428
Quote:

Originally Posted by goldfinger1111 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Hi,

should the points in those blue circles be connected?
Upper and mid circle are, but right now there is no connection to the burnt pad in the bottom circle.
Since the board is pretty much burnt, I'm not sure if there's supposed to be a connection. It would connect the 3rd and 4th pin on the CCON5...





Can I replace the UF4997 with HER108?
Datasheet
Can I replace just the 2 diodes or would I have to change those 4 or even all of them?


Looking at those PIX kinda makes me sick to my Stomach!

I empathize with the OP of the problem.

.
 
Mar 13, 2009 at 10:24 PM Post #351 of 428
Quote:

Originally Posted by hobbang819 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
After having gone through troubles of my own (now working fine) I wish you luck in getting yours fixed.

Just finished putting in the PIO and I am done! Other than waiting for a new knob to come in.



Which knob did you get?

.
 
Mar 13, 2009 at 10:39 PM Post #352 of 428
I just bought a simple one from ebay. Hoping that I won't have to cut down the pot for it to fit.
ed_1.JPG
 
Mar 13, 2009 at 10:54 PM Post #353 of 428
Quote:

Originally Posted by hobbang819 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I just bought a simple one from ebay. Hoping that I won't have to cut down the pot for it to fit.
ed_1.JPG




I had to cut mine down, but I had the Alps pot and the shaft was real long. Knob looks nice.

My advice, measure 3 times, cut once.

Don't ask me how I know!

.
 
Mar 14, 2009 at 12:04 AM Post #355 of 428
Quote:

Originally Posted by hobbang819 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I've got the alps pot as well so it's looking grim on the not cutting.


Hi,
Is it the one from LC?

.
 
Mar 14, 2009 at 12:17 AM Post #357 of 428
Quote:

Originally Posted by hobbang819 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
That it is. I can't wait for the knob to come in so that I can finally stop opening the case.


Does the stock Zero knob mount way off the case on that POT?

.
 
Mar 14, 2009 at 12:32 AM Post #359 of 428
Hi,
Real familiar with that view. I believe you're going to be cutting the shaft. Take your time and don't get it too hot. I cut just a little too much off mine and had to buy another pot. That I now get to cut!!

Good luck!

.
 
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