[prinz]

thanks PP

I just used black spray paint, and i didnt do any job on front panel.
I made few layers of black paint, but if I have to be honest, its really scratching very easily.

 

[glitch39]

So long my fellow Franken-Z owners. I sold mine and changed out my gear. But I wanted to share my last few days with my F-Z before it got shipped.

First off - here is my initial post on my F-Z at 0 and 150 hours:

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/5362726-post218.html

at well over 200 hours, things became stable. Good bass, great highs, really good all around. but the soundstage and the mids.... WOW! - great dynamics - you won't think it started life as a $150 amp/DAC combo. the unit is soooo quiet. I'd max the volume and still think it's off. the noise floor is that low.

I had the opportunity to use the Benchmark's headamp out to a pair of stock D5000's and compared to a stock D5000 plugged in to the zero's head-amp. Maybe it's my expectations due to the price difference, but the Benchmark did not excite me like the F-Z did.

To all those who are doing the mods, check with PP if he's around. His advise is always spot-on with regards to the F-Z.

one more thing - on some occasions (specific volume level and recording), it equalled my LD IV with 6N30P-DR's and M8161's. so that speaks a lot about the zero's headamp and DAC resolution.

happy listening.

 

[Pricklely Peete]

Quote:

Originally Posted by 10hz /img/forum/go_quote.gif the price of BG is scary! looks like cerafine n silmic is the way to go. btw Peete, have you review the Compass yet?

Yup have a look in the Compass thread started by Currawong...there is a link to parts I and II with III being written right now.

The Cerafine and Silmic's are warmer with better mids but the addition of the Russian PIOs (in bypass mode) makes the combo as good as it gets IMO, black gates or no.

Peete.

 

[Pricklely Peete]

Quote:

Originally Posted by hobbang819 /img/forum/go_quote.gif I only soldered on the bottoms and its working swimmingly.

Some General Tips :

The trick is solder from one side but use just enough solder so it flows to the other side. It takes a little practice and about an extra second of time (max time on small joints should be around 3 seconds or less)

Do not forget to prep the iron before soldering...give it sufficient time to reheat between joints (10 - 15 seconds if it's low powered iron less time for higher wattage) Have a damp sponge nearby to clean the tip each and every time it's used for a joint. Re tin the tip as necessary. These procedures will make your lives and DIY work much easier and cleaner.

Always use just enough solder and not a drop more. Many times that's about 5 to 7 mm's worth or less. It doesn't take much ...practice to find the right amount for the job. There is no way to study this...you have to do it to understand what is not enough or too much. Look at the other joints and compare your work to good examples. Clean your joints after....do not leave dull or messy joints...those are likely to be trouble spots when it comes time to power up. Go over the entire board and clean up any splash...possible shorts from excess solder where it shouldn't be etc...the flux residue has to be cleaned off. It eats away at the board and the joint leading to failure at some point. Rubbing Alcohol and a clean old toothbrush works great. Make sure you never rub the dry brush over static sensitive parts (IC chips etc). A dental pic can also be used to gently scrape any tough flux from the nooks and crannies but do not use force to do so. Be gentle but firm...

Peete.

 

[glitch39]

another tip: the solder tip (literally)

when I solder with blunt tips, it's a lot more difficult to control solder flow. keeping extra tips handy is wise!

 

[10hz]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pricklely Peete /img/forum/go_quote.gif Yup have a look in the Compass thread started by Currawong...there is a link to parts I and II with III being written right now. The Cerafine and Silmic's are warmer with better mids but the addition of the Russian PIOs (in bypass mode) makes the combo as good as it gets IMO, black gates or no. Peete.

Thks Peete for your confirmation and advise. I had cerafine and Russian PIO on, seems go .

I think its very important to try to do a proper soldering job, especially when there are so many parts involved. I make it an effort to solder top and bottom, with or without pad, I aint going to take any chances, after deciding to ‘go all way out’.

The most challenging part, I think, is the de-soldering process. It’s really a PITA to ensure the spent gob of solder is properly extracted from the hole, and making sure the holes are not covered up, in the process taking extreme care to be gentle but firm as not to uproot the pads n tracks.

Cleaning up is important with IPA and brush, to remove the residual flux and solder dust to prevent shorting out the SMDs eg. the DAC chip.

With the Compass going to be the next BIG thing, I might belong to the last group of those who attempted this mod, however I have no regret and feeling very impressed with the sound, looking forward to more surprises at the 150hr mark, which I suppose will take another month , based on 4hr of listening per day.

Have Fun!

 

[Pricklely Peete]

Quote:

Originally Posted by 10hz /img/forum/go_quote.gif Thks Peete for your confirmation and advise. I had cerafine and Russian PIO on, seems go . I think its very important to try to do a proper soldering job, especially when there are so many parts involved. I make it an effort to solder top and bottom, with or without pad, I aint going to take any chances, after deciding to ‘go all way out’. The most challenging part, I think, is the de-soldering process. It’s really a PITA to ensure the spent gob of solder is properly extracted from the hole, and making sure the holes are not covered up, in the process taking extreme care to be gentle but firm as not to uproot the pads n tracks. Cleaning up is important with IPA and brush, to remove the residual flux and solder dust to prevent shorting out the SMDs eg. the DAC chip. With the Compass going to be the next BIG thing, I might belong to the last group of those who attempted this mod, however I have no regret and feeling very impressed with the sound, looking forward to more surprises at the 150hr mark, which I suppose will take another month , based on 4hr of listening per day. Have Fun!

Agreed,

The hardest part of all with this project is getting the old parts out without damaging the board (that's pretty much true of most boards these days so that is nothing new). The trick to that is the right tools for the job and more than one strategy for dealing with stubborn but highly delicate spots.

Manual pump + electric de-solder tool are both good to have.
Adding solder to a tough spot after the part has been extracted (very carefully) is another good tip.
A third hand tool is a great device to have (although not mandatory)
Some good quality wicking material and paste flux, SS pic....all good to have.

Most of all though...patience is required. Keep your cool and resist the use of force if things get frustrating. Do not skip steps or do the whole thing at once unless you are highly skilled and highly experienced. Better to take small steps and master those before taking the larger steps you are unprepared for.

The last and one of the most important steps I find...do all your prep work before you pull the pcb and fire up the irons. Have it organized, map out your steps. Take your time. Don't settle for half assed that's a recipe for failure. Follow the DIY instruction/orientation pics for the parts/bypass PIOs to the letter, no exceptions.

This is the formula for success more often than not.

Peete.

 

[Pricklely Peete]

Quote:

Originally Posted by glitch39 /img/forum/go_quote.gif another tip: the solder tip (literally) when I solder with blunt tips, it's a lot more difficult to control solder flow. keeping extra tips handy is wise!

I can't believe I forgot to mention this one....thanks G !!! Yes the tip condition is critical especially for small through hole boards. If it's blunt or pitted go get a brand new one right away. A fine tip works better than the standard issue but the standard tip will do the job.

Peete.

 

[indianbraker]

man i would love to perform this mod but lack the skills, materials, and time...how much would someone perform this mod for if i sent them my zero plus the cost of parts too..

thanks to anyone willing to help out

 

[goorackerelite]

man this project is both a pain and a joy, getting some of the old parts out is like pulling teeth, it helps to have a buddy of yours to gently pull on a part while you de solder a component from the bottom, then suck out the residual solder afterwards. After the first components came out the rest of the job became very easy and might I say, pleasurable to do. Takes a steady hand and lots of planning and thinking, but what a learning experience though.

 

[Pricklely Peete]

Quote:

Originally Posted by indianbraker /img/forum/go_quote.gif man i would love to perform this mod but lack the skills, materials, and time...how much would someone perform this mod for if i sent them my zero plus the cost of parts too.. thanks to anyone willing to help out

I'll do it for you if you want and charge a flat but fair rate.

The kit is 45 parts in all.

PM me for quote details.

Peete.

 

[goorackerelite]

wow Pete that's is a generous offer. The mod took me about 8 hours of nerves and anxiously awaiting the life or the death of my Zero unit upon power up. But in the end....... muah haha I'm one happy frankie owner!!!

 

[L4T3NCY]

I've decided to upgrade my zero with this mod but I have one question. When the instructions state to replace a capacitor and bypass it with an additional capacitor does that basically mean to place the two in parallel?

 

[les_garten]

Quote:

Originally Posted by L4T3NCY /img/forum/go_quote.gif I've decided to upgrade my zero with this mod but I have one question. When the instructions state to replace a capacitor and bypass it with an additional capacitor does that basically mean to place the two in parallel?

Excellent Question.

.

 

[goorackerelite]

I'm about 50 hours into the frankie experience with the moon Hdam, and I'm just astonished at the level of refinement that this modification is bringing to my listening experience. Supposedly, the sound is going to fully mature at 350 hours but right now the enjoyment I'm getting from the mod is absolutely mind blowing!!! I often find my self holding my breath because the depth and the nuance of the sound just seems to be infinite that demands all of your attention. I'm sure the compass is getting just as good sound out of a factory box, but the frankie is personal, I've spent time fostering, and raising an average DAC into a monster of a performer. Thanks again goes out to Peete, I'm so grateful to his dedication to this project.