[Stormbringer]

Accidentally I noticed someone's CK2III and found it very cool to build such an amp myself. But, I have zero knowledge about amps. I'm just going to order my first serious full sized headphone (something like a BeyerDynamic DT770) and therefor I haven't ever used an amp. Well I used some a couple of times, but they weren't mine and I didn't pay that much attention.
 
Second thing is, is that I don't know very much about electrics. So mods or things that are not planned are a problem to me.
 
However, I did build a couple of guitar effects, and what I see from the gut shots of the CK2III it looks like I could build that. But that would be "stupidly following the manual".
 
So I was wondering if you could recommend me a DIY amp (for low impedance phones like the Beyerdynamic DT770, Shure SRH840, AKG K271mkII, Audio Technica M50, etc)? And that I can get a fairly easy to complete kit with al parts so that I can begin to use the easy to follow manual. The casing + drilling holes shouldn't be a problem, but I should get recommended casing because I don't know what fits and what is handy.
 
This is my "level". Again, it's all "just following the manual".
 
So what amp would be handy, of whom it is easy to get all the parts, and which has a good clear manual. By the way, if I take that CK2III, they are talking about a second switchable input - I would like that.
 
Thanks! 

 

[JoetheArachnid]

I'm very fond of my K272A - it's a complete kit from a small electronics chain in Australia. It uses tiny tubes in conjuction with an opamp and has lots of scope for upgrading components. It doesn't come with a case or connectors, but those are fairly easy to come by. The switchable inputs too could probably be wired in easily. It doesn't come with step-by-step instructions per se, but it's pretty obvious where everything should go from all the diagrams.
It's also dirt cheap, but don't let that fool you. It sounds fantastic.
 
Here's the original thread: http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/453425/tube-headphone-amp-kit-for-25

 

[Stormbringer]

Thanks a lot, looks promising! I will keep that in mind, I have some other priorities now.
 
I'm open to other suggestions though, they're never too much!

 

[igor0203]

For first time build, you could also look at class A Zen headphone amplifier. It's very simple to build.
 
http://gilmore2.chem.northwestern.edu/projects/showfile.php?file=pellerano_prj.htm

 

[MrSlim]

I don't think you can go wrong with the CK2III. AMB's web site here: http://www.amb.org/audio/ck2/ has all the info you need to build one. If you decide to go that route, purchase the other parts he offers for the CK2III as well (as noted in the parts list).  Almost everything else can be purchased from one source(Mouser), except for the power transformer(you probably could substitute a different brand of the same ratings).  Having a circuit board to start with makes it a lot simpler to build, as well as having the power supply and amp integrated on one board. 

 

[earthpeople]

Just chiming in to say that I've built both the K272 and the CKKIII, and both are very straightforward and easy to build. I personally prefer the CKKIII, but both are great options for a first build.

 

[DocBlasto]

Quote:

Just chiming in to say that I've built both the K272 and the CKKIII, and both are very straightforward and easy to build. I personally prefer the CKKIII, but both are great options for a first build.

Why do you prefer the CK2III to the K272?  Is there an obvious difference in tone or power?  I just built my first headphone amp (an 18v Banzai V2 pocket amp) and I'm already itching to build a more substantial desktop amp to power my DT770 Pro-80 at home.
 
I read a review warning of the K272A's extreme sensitivity to mobile phone signals and other types of electromagnetic interference.  Have you experienced any of this yourself?

 

[JoetheArachnid]

Quote:

Why do you prefer the CK2III to the K272?  Is there an obvious difference in tone or power?  I just built my first headphone amp (an 18v Banzai V2 pocket amp) and I'm already itching to build a more substantial desktop amp to power my DT770 Pro-80 at home.
 
I read a review warning of the K272A's extreme sensitivity to mobile phone signals and other types of electromagnetic interference.  Have you experienced any of this yourself?

I think I can chime in here, though I've never heard the CK2III.
 
Yes, the K272A is extremely sensitive. The noise floor seems to be pot luck depending on the tubes you end up with - some people report inky black silence, some (like me) not so much. Although I think much of the noise is down one channel. The PP3 battery used also seems to make a fairly large difference here.
And yeah, it's also very sensitive to EM signals. I've ended up trying a number of things to get rid of the buzzing (different from the background hiss) that occurs when the amp isn't totally happy. I started off in a wooden enclosure, then moved to a metal enclosure, then about six months later got around to attaching the chassis to signal ground. That eventually killed off the ambient buzzing, though noise does still come through when a nearby mobile phone is sending or receiving. It's still not inky silent but it's a lot more usable than before - I used to have to keep a finger on the metal of my laptop's chassis to ground the buzzing and make it stop.

 

[BobSaysHi]

Quote:

Quote:

Why do you prefer the CK2III to the K272?  Is there an obvious difference in tone or power?  I just built my first headphone amp (an 18v Banzai V2 pocket amp) and I'm already itching to build a more substantial desktop amp to power my DT770 Pro-80 at home.
 
I read a review warning of the K272A's extreme sensitivity to mobile phone signals and other types of electromagnetic interference.  Have you experienced any of this yourself?

I think I can chime in here, though I've never heard the CK2III.
 
Yes, the K272A is extremely sensitive. The noise floor seems to be pot luck depending on the tubes you end up with - some people report inky black silence, some (like me) not so much. Although I think much of the noise is down one channel. The PP3 battery used also seems to make a fairly large difference here.
And yeah, it's also very sensitive to EM signals. I've ended up trying a number of things to get rid of the buzzing (different from the background hiss) that occurs when the amp isn't totally happy. I started off in a wooden enclosure, then moved to a metal enclosure, then about six months later got around to attaching the chassis to signal ground. That eventually killed off the ambient buzzing, though noise does still come through when a nearby mobile phone is sending or receiving. It's still not inky silent but it's a lot more usable than before - I used to have to keep a finger on the metal of my laptop's chassis to ground the buzzing and make it stop.

And after all that you still recommend it to people?

 

[JoetheArachnid]

Quote:

And after all that you still recommend it to people?

It works totally fine now and it sounds utterly awesome. It's also very cheap and very easy to build (kit with printed PCB). And very modifiable. Need I go on?
 
I'm just sharing my build experiences so people don't have any of the problems I did in my vast DIY n00bity. In that respect I may have ended up focusing on the neagtives, and not the tight and impactful bass, the smooth and exciting midrange and the slighlty lively yet velvety-smooth and extended treble. If I ever have any spare cash I'm buying maybe two or three more. Mayhap my opinion will change when my latest DIY venture comes together, but I'm betting that this amp will still get quite a bit of respect and play time.
 
And the mobile phone thing doesn't matter to me - I don't have any friends[ that call me].

 

[BobSaysHi]

Quote:

Quote:

And after all that you still recommend it to people?

It works totally fine now and it sounds utterly awesome. It's also very cheap and very easy to build (kit with printed PCB). And very modifiable. Need I go on?
 
I'm just sharing my build experiences so people don't have any of the problems I did in my vast DIY n00bity. In that respect I may have ended up focusing on the neagtives, and not the tight and impactful bass, the smooth and exciting midrange and the slighlty lively yet velvety-smooth and extended treble. If I ever have any spare cash I'm buying maybe two or three more. Mayhap my opinion will change when my latest DIY venture comes together, but I'm betting that this amp will still get quite a bit of respect and play time.
 
And the mobile phone thing doesn't matter to me - I don't have any friends[ that call me].

Have you heard any higher end tube amps? I see you're working on a Panda Amp in your profile, and I'm curious how that compares to this. My friend is looking for a low cost amp, and either of those look pretty good for the price.

 

[JoetheArachnid]

Quote:

Have you heard any higher end tube amps? I see you're working on a Panda Amp in your profile, and I'm curious how that compares to this. My friend is looking for a low cost amp, and either of those look pretty good for the price.

My amp experience is VERY limited - ie the K272A, the HP out on my mother's Creek integrated amp (it sucks) and the HP out on my mother's Marantz CD-50 (it also sucks). But somehow I hope that I know good when I hear it. Mostly what I can tell is that my HD 595s sounded a bit dull and lifeless when unamped and now they sound better. How much better? I'll tell you when (if) the parts for my Panda arrive. Left Shanghai 18 days ago on tracking, nothing heard since...
Also I'm taking that other people's experiences with the K272 sonically are similar to mine, so I must be hearing something right.
 
After the Panda it's source source source and then maybe I'll look into some tube amps like the Bottlehead Crack if I have man enough cans by that point.

 

[Stormbringer]

Guys, any specific amps that would sound specifically with Grados? I'm very much in love with my SR325is, and I think I will use them for years. I also have the K271mkII, and while I like it and use it (because of the closed design), the Grados blow them away for my taste. So I would appreciate even better Grados.

 

[xyphen]

No one wants to mention the mini-max? It's at the top of my list for a n00b build. TomB's kits are *complete*. Utterly. Lots of support and it sounds awesome. I've used mine with HD650s and Grado 325i headphones. It works very well with both, although slightly better with the senns. for comparison I also have a PPAv2 that's pretty maxed out. After doing the opamp bypass mod, it rocked the Grados but didn't sound as nice with the HD650s. I still prefer the mini max to any PPA config that I've tried.
good luck and welcome to the addiction.

 

[DocBlasto]

Quote:

No one wants to mention the mini-max? It's at the top of my list for a n00b build. TomB's kits are *complete*. Utterly. Lots of support and it sounds awesome. I've used mine with HD650s and Grado 325i headphones. It works very well with both, although slightly better with the senns. for comparison I also have a PPAv2 that's pretty maxed out. After doing the opamp bypass mod, it rocked the Grados but didn't sound as nice with the HD650s. I still prefer the mini max to any PPA config that I've tried.
good luck and welcome to the addiction.

Is the Mini-Max really super amazingly awesome? I mean, it looks like a substantial amp, whereas the rest of these are extremely basic, small and often battery-powered devices. I only ask because it costs over $200 and requires far more labor. It seems like there might be more competition in that price range. I'd hope that for the money and time invested that it could comfortably power 250-ohm headphones. I at the moment have a pair of DT-770 Pro-80 and a pair of SR225.
 
Is this an amp that will not leave me with upgrade-itis within a week?