First build
Apr 2, 2006 at 4:23 PM Thread Starter Post #1 of 22

SgtE

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Hi,
I am completely new to headphone amplification, but I appreciate good sound (
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) and after a couple of glimpses here I think I want to build myself a GOOD SOUNDING small portable amp that'll run on batteries (maybe also connectable to a dc, or is this hard?). It must be able to drive headphones up to 350 ohm.

What would you recommend? How much would it cost?

If you have a link or something to the recommendation it would be very much appreciated
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Maybe also a link to a site/document that will tell me what I need to know before entering this project...

Many thanks in advance!
 
Apr 2, 2006 at 4:47 PM Post #4 of 22
Quote:

Originally Posted by SgtE
Thanks,

how much would any of those cost me? Didn't see any info on that...




Costs will vary depending on the parts you use, but here is a VERY rough guide:

Cmoy - $30
Pint - $40
Pimeta - $100 (bare bones) to $200+ (elegent casing, etc.)
PPA - $250 and up

Add to the above $1,000 for tools, spare parts, etc. and my butt is covered
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I spent a lot of money getting set up for electronic DIY. The first amp is very expensive; probably cheaper to buy a commercial amp. The 2nd amp is more reasonable and the actual costs get somewhat closer to the "theoretical" cost as you acquire tools and suppliues and spare parts. It is what you make it, cost-wise.
 
Apr 2, 2006 at 5:38 PM Post #6 of 22
Quote:

Originally Posted by SgtE
Whoa,, what tools are you using? I thought that maybe a soldering tool would be enough
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anyway, a grand, are you serious?
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My soldering station features all pure silver wiring throughout. All caps are BlackGate and OrangeDrop.

(Just kidding- hang around here and you will understand my humor).

I was somewhat facetious about the grand, but I suspect that if people here added up all their tools, supplies, shipping and parts sitting in their bins, $1K is not a huge figure. You can spend $10 on an iron or $90 and up (and up) for a soldering station. You can spend $7 for a set of precision screwdrivers, or $40. You can spend $30 each for pliars, nippers, etc., or $6 each. That is why it is so hard to say "it costs this much to get into this hobby".

If you read Tangent's "Getting Started in DIY" page, he goes through all the tools, from cheap to expensive and tries to explain why you might want to spend more than the minimum. It is a good read. Also, his new training videos offers a lot of insight on the tool issues. He does his videos with a $10 iron just to show that you don't need a $100 station to solder, even SMD chips and resistors.

I'm just trying to say that, in principle, you can build a Cmoy for about $30 but no one has yet actually done that
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Figure $100 minimum for tools and supplies if you don't have anything. If you manage to have anything left over, take your significant other out to dinner.

You also have the issue of minimum orders, freight and handling charges, etc. You can get almost everything you need to build a Cmoy from Radio Shack. You will pay at least double what you would pay from Digikey and Mouser. But once you start ordering from Digikey and Mouser, it is $6 minimum freight to order a part. If you order exactly what you need and nothing else, you will break something or order a wrong part, and then you have another $6 freight bill for a $1 part, and only from Mouser, who has no minimum order. So you start stocking up on parts and buying extras. Then you read about neat tools and parts here. Then you start buying boutique parts like high end capacitors and Rhodium plated jacks. Then you decide to build your own interconnect because $50 for a nice interconnect is highway robbery. After ordering $200 in plugs, cables, techflex and heatshrink, just to get enough stuff together to figure out what you want to actually do, you realize how cheap that $50 commercial intercoonect is. Once you are stocked up on interconnect parts, the next cable costs $20 and it is a nice cable that compares with the $50 commercial cable. But now you want that really neat chrome techflex and hey... people are talking about that pure silver wire so you are back on the treadmill.

Hmmmm.... see where I am going?

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But... if you have DESCIPLINE, you can build that Cmoy for $30 (if you already have basic soldering tools) and call it a day. And you will be the first one to ever do it.....

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Apr 2, 2006 at 5:46 PM Post #7 of 22
My first CMoy was about 40 dollars or so. My current PIMETA with power regulation costed me 150+ dollars.
 
Apr 2, 2006 at 7:21 PM Post #9 of 22
Simple cheap tools for a Cmoy will run you $30-40 (dirt minimum) if you have nothing at all. I bought cheap stuff at first and was pretty happy, BUT if you plan to do more you should purchase better tools. There's the rub. You don't know if you will want to do more until you do your first amp. I guess this is also a Catch-22.

In the end building a Cmoy is not as cheap as it seenms if you don't have some of the tools on hand. Building it yourself is the real payoff. I was as happy as a little girl the first time I heard sound from my Cmoy.

See here for tangent's recomendations:
http://tangentsoft.net/audio/new-diyer.html

Radio Shack, Harbor Frieght, and Sears companion brand will get you there. (I'm assuming you live in the U.S,)

Soldering iron
Desoldering wick or sucker
Small needle nose pliers
Wire strippers/cutters
Helping hands
Cheap multimeter (Harbor Freight has a DMM for $3. It's a throw away, but works...maybe. If you plan on using a DMM outside of this build get a $20 Sears. I have one. So far the readings match well to my old Fluke 75)

Borrow a drill for case work

Good Luck,
Sam
 
Apr 2, 2006 at 7:57 PM Post #10 of 22
Quote:

Originally Posted by Samgotit
(Harbor Freight has a DMM for $3. It's a throw away, but works...maybe...


This DMM is the one that I've had a hard time with. My grandfather has a big box of them, but I've found that it was very inaccurate, but maybe that's because the battery was dying.
 
Apr 2, 2006 at 8:48 PM Post #11 of 22
Quote:

Originally Posted by bperboy
This DMM is the one that I've had a hard time with. My grandfather has a big box of them, but I've found that it was very inaccurate, but maybe that's because the battery was dying.


Yea, most of them come with a free dead battery. It needs to be changed.
I did a lengthy quantitative test with it afterward. A 1.5V AA measured 1.47V so I concluded it was accurate. I can say nothing about precision as I only did this once.
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Sam
 
Apr 3, 2006 at 2:14 PM Post #12 of 22
I already have a ordinary sordering tool (one that you just plug into the wall - no levers, no nothing except the soldering function) - will that one do or do I need something that is especially designed for this kind of work?
 
Apr 3, 2006 at 2:21 PM Post #13 of 22
If your iron is reasonably low temp (15-25W for example) it should be fine. The important thing is a fine tip and low heat so you don't cook the parts and the boards.
 
Apr 3, 2006 at 2:28 PM Post #14 of 22
Ok, kool, then it will work
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This is going to be so much fun, can't wait, but now its probably for the better to hit the books on the subject...

Another thing, will there be a big difference in sq between pimeta and pint? Or, what I mean to say: will a pint ruin the sq of really good phones? Or just make em better?
 
Apr 3, 2006 at 2:36 PM Post #15 of 22
I think there will be spirited debate here regarding the relative benefits of those two designs. The designs are very similar- both have high current buffered virtual ground channels and both have, essentially, high current "buffered" output channels, although the Pint is an all in one design. I don't think you will ruin the sound with either
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